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donut_v2

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Everything posted by donut_v2

  1. Almost there. Still need to do headlights and tail lights and maybe a light system? After that some more weathering.
  2. I've been really busy the past two weeks so not much progress made. I 3d printed embossed badges (painted chrome) and printed decals to go over them. This is the decal on the 3d printed badge still soaking with water. I then squeezed the water out and ... voila! This actually turned out better than I expected. I will probably have to spray a clear coat over them to prevent the decals from peeling.
  3. Thanks! Oh no! You just planted a seed in my mind suggesting the Mini wheels! Too many ideas and not enough time (and money).
  4. I used Alclad polished aluminum. Alclad Chrome would have been better but it's not available anywhere in my part of the world right now. It can actually look a lot better by giving the hub caps a smooth glossy black base. Since I just wanted to see what it would look light, I just sprayed the 3d printed part with a single coat of black paint then gave it a coat of Alclad. Here are the door trims and grille frame printed in Alclad.
  5. Correct, I just scan the decal and trace over it. I suppose you could also scan the side of the shell. The chrome frame on this one is too thick.
  6. Looks like completion is going to be delayed a bit. I discovered that replacements for those awful looking window trim decals can be 3d printed decently. I am going to try adding the chrome detail that 's supposed to be on top of the rubber gasket.
  7. Thanks! I absolutely agree with you regarding wheels and tires on the Tamiya classic cars -- same small diameter fat tires on all of them. I'm working on make some white side walls for the Karmann Ghia. Something like this --
  8. I've gone back to work on this one since my 2cv body finally arrived. Here's the body propped up by a couple of wheels. The wheels and tires are just freely standing under the fenders to see how they look. I will try printing a grille and the door handles. Update: Just printed it and realized it was wrong. I need to make a "Charleston" grille.
  9. Here's my work in progress c2v body with no chassis and free standing wheels.
  10. Next time, try to brush or spray clear paint on the edges of the masking tape. If there are leaks anywhere in the tape, the clear paint will seal them up. Let it dry then continue with paint as usual and you should get a sharper line.
  11. I feel the same way about the wheels and tires. Check out my thread where I 3d printed wheels and tires for the 2cv. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/92572-3d-printing-wheels-and-tires-for-the-renault-alpine-a110-and-citroen-2cv/
  12. None of the resins I've used would last long as gears for rc vehicles. I haven't tried the "tough" resins yet though.
  13. This is the result of my third attempt at molding this tire and I think I'm almost there. Hopefully my fourth attempt will be much better because of the mistakes I learned from on this one. Here's the modified mold (from the previous pic I posted) which makes it easier to print and has relocated resin filling holes. Top half of the mold pried off. The center part of the mold I printed using flexible filament on an FDM 3d printer which makes it easier to pull out. It took a lot of effort to get the tire out of the bottom half of the mold even with a release agent applied. You can see flashing where the two parts of the mold meet and the fill holes. While working on this mold, I discovered I have a clear 3d printing resin that the liquid rubber doesn't like sticking to. I'll be using that to make the next mold. Plus, since it's clear I can see if I've completely filled the mold. Most of the tread and details are still there. This is a proper rubber tire compared to the one printed with flexible resin. My 2cv body set finally arrived so I can't wait to get this done.
  14. The tire will be molded in one piece using a 3 piece mould. I plan to use syringes and rubber tubing to pull the resin from the bottom to the top of the mold hopefully without leaving any air bubbles.
  15. I tried something a little different. The problem with using flexible resin is that it's not really that flexible and definitely not stretchable. If you try to stretch it to mount on a rim, 9 times out of 10, it will break. That's the reason I print the wheels in two pieces. This time I tried printing a mold for the 2cv tire. I printed a 2-piece mold with the joint down the middle of the tire. However, I realized that there would probably be an ugly line where the 2 halves of the mold meet. I decided I was going to make a new mold so I used one side for a test mold of the resin I had. Unfortunately, I was not able to take a picture of the resin in the mold. It turned out pretty good though. One thing I didn't apply was a release agent so the tire stuck to the mold more than I expected it to. Since I was going to make a new mold, I decided to just break the mold and get the (1/3) tire out to see how detailed it would be. Honestly, I really like the result. This is a much faster and cheaper way to make tires. Furthermore, the tires now stretch and bend just like real tires. Super grippy, too.
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