Saito2

I took a swing at that, but got outbid as I was in bed when the auction ended.

Yay! another TT platform car!...said no one ever..... Sorry

Thanks. I've been dreaming about using the Jamie Booth-style inner arm mounts for my Egress available on Shapeways in metal.

What's the general consensus on the durability of 3D printed metal parts?

Great idea. I'd just add that the TXT-1 and Juggernaut (1 and 2) are no longer in production. One that didn't make the list (though it reportedly has issues) was the Redcat Ground Pounder.

Understandable. Completely agree. Which is why I stated : If anything, I've witnessed bewilderment in the other direction for not using modern gear rather than rabid restorationist demanding everything be period correct.

I've had a hand in restoring many vintage 1:1 cars in my time. These vehicles are brought back to be as original as possible and, as you can imagine, are not as "easy to live with" as a modern vehicle. Its part of the "vintage charm" or the vintage experience. One of my personal cars is modified, but with period-correct accessories. This means points ignition and a carb with a choke, etc. because that's what was around back them, not DIS or EFI. Why then, is there a certain dislike for details like this in our vintage RC cars, namely electronics? There appears to often be a push toward Lipo regardless if the car is vintage or not. Mechanical speed controllers get the worst off it, often tossed for an ESC. MSCs tend to actually garner a certain hatred (too many burned fingers from resistors possibly, lol). Honestly, for the full experience, a BEC pack could/should be used in places where appropriate. It just seems, in the world of vintage RC, there are not as many folks intent on going "all-out" for the vintage experience, often taking short-cuts with electronics. Am I scolding? That is not my intent. Its just an honest question. I really don't mind how any of us enjoy this hobby. Want to put an ESC, Lipo and brushless in your vintage Hotshot? Go for it. Doesn't bother me. There's no "right" way to have fun. In the 1:1 world, folks aren't surprised to see a mechanical fuel pump, points, and a carb on a Model A Ford, even though modern equivalents would make life easier, so why the dislike for using an MSC and receiver pack for things other than the shelf? Again, this isn't finger pointing and surely there are those among us who still go full vintage runner. Just wondering or perhaps its all in my head.

So the Full Option kit was tested on the 2013 re-release? This brings up a question I've had. The re-re has redesigned diffs. The only thing actually holding the diff outdrives in place is the pressure from the dogbone (inner) end of the front universal shaft pressing on a sponge bushing placed within the outdrive/drivecup. It gets away with this because, on the stock front suspension set-up, the universal driveshafts are in line with the inner pivot points of the front suspension arm. The Full Option/Jamie Booth arrangement alters this feature by repositioning the inner pivot points for more caster, taking the front driveshafts now, out of line, with the inner arm pivot points. I could see it working with the vintage diffs as Jamie did BITD since the vintage diff's outdrives feature a more positive engagement with the diff (they actually have a shaft entering the diff). The re-re however, has no shaft, relying on shallow drivetabs on the backside of the outdrive's cup and a dinky piece of sponge bushing to hold them engaged. I'm surprised the Full Option kit's arrangement doesn't cause these to pop out during running.

Yeah, I regret jumping the gun and posting pics of the shock in mocked-up form. The front driveshafts haven't even been installed (still in the mail) yet. Its not quite a dramatic as the pic makes it look. The coil spring is messing with the optics somewhat, but either way I should have come up with a more appropriate upper shock mounting method, even during the mock-up stage, because that looks like slap-dash garbage in the pic. Not only does it look like crap, but those are flattened TP cardboard rolls mocking up the body height for clearance adjustment purposes. So crap all the way around.

Yes, it does suck even more than usual.

Probably over 100.

I have a couple EVXs including the pictured Marine version. I've had this one in Clod Busters and WR01s for over 10 years now with no issues fortunately, running everything from twin 550 Titians on 14.4v to twin 15T 540s on 7.2v. I just never tried a single 8.4v pack though, which I'd like to couple with some standard silvercans for a project I'm working on.

I know I've seen this somewhere before, but is it possible to knock out old, worn dogbone/driveshaft pins and refresh them with new (custom cut from steel rod likely) pins? I have some rare Thorp dogbones I'd like to refresh.

You can run 0 timed brushed motors like the HPI 15T Firebolts or anything else that would suit a Clod Buster. Twin brushless systems are also a possibility but that's way over the top in this case.

@Mr. Horsepower The original Kysho Car Crusher line started in the late 80"s with the Big Brute reviewed in RCCA in Dec '87. It was followed in later years by the Hi-Rider Vette, Double Dare, Big Boss and the original USA-1 (not related to the old nitro variant or new version out today). They did do an actual gas version of the chassis called the Nitro Brute. All of them share roughly the same architecture, the USA-1 arguably being the most unique as it was a direct challenge to the Clod Buster at the time.