[The reason for the big sell-off]

Noises can be tricky. You can check the valve clearance (cold). For bottom end noises, carefully with the engine running (using thick gloves or insulated pliers) pull one plug wire at a time. If the noise goes away in the bottom end, it might be a rod knock. At the very least , this identifies the cylinder with the problem. You can pull the oil pan on a B without pulling the engine, so if you need to plastigauge (check clearances) or replace bearings, you can. One time I had a B that would quiet down upon pulling two adjacent plug wires. Two rod knocks at the same time seemed unlikely so I did a compression test. It turned out the head gasket was leaking between the two cylinders, which, oddly enough, sounded like a rod knock.

[Fighting Buggy turning range]

I'm pretty sure the aftermarket had developed ball and gear diffs for the SRB platform by '82. The Wild Willy came out around '82 and had a diff as did the Marui Land Cruiser and CJ7. The Frog had a diff the next year. I just felt the benefits of a diff in competition were becoming apparent by that time, although this is strictly my opinion as I have no knowledge of what was going on behind the scenes development-wise.

[Tiny Thunder Shot]

At one time, these little cars were believed to be clues as to which cars Tamiya would re-release. Of course that wasn't the case, but I think we got a re-re of every one but the Astute if I remember correctly.

[Fighting Buggy turning range]

For being Tamiya's "competition" version of the SRB, I was always surprised it didn't have a diff which was becoming more commonplace by that time. Anyway, the buggy does indeed steer like a super tanker. No diff plus a lot of the weight on the rear equal loads of understeer. A diff (more than likely a ball-type) will help for sure. One must be careful when trying to physically get more steering angle out of the front linkage. Go too far, and the inboard steering upright will over-center and effectively jamb the wheel. One thing I've found that helps is matching the rear tires to the surface. The stock pin spikes work on looser surfaces. They grip enough to keep the heavy rearend from completely washing out. On higher bite surfaces, its understeer-city, with pin spikes however. I like Sand Scorcher/Grasshopper sand paddle tires on higher bite areas like grass. They offer little lateral grip, so the rear end can "come around more" in a turn, aiding steering. For all-out performance, which is likely beyond the scope of this question, some more radical changes must be implemented. The cool floating rear suspension would have to go and there would be much drilling/hacking of the heavy diff casing to get as much weigh off the rear in an attempt to more balance the buggy.

[Restored Fire Dragon]

Yes, the monshock versions (Thundershot and Thunder Dragon) use 3 shocks (short size) the same length. The dual front shock versions (Fire Dragon and Terra Scorcher) use short shocks in the rear and mini shocks up front.

[Tamiya Trophy Truck/Stadium Truck/Short Course Truck]

Tamiya hasn't really dipped into this market. The old TA-02T 4wd trucks are kind of the smaller predecessors to current day short course trucks. The chassis is still around underneath trucks like the Desert Fielder. Tamiya closest, if somewhat half-hearted, stab at the market segment might be the DT-02 based Nissan Titan Racing Truck.

[Missing the allure of some models]

Have you ever been in a situation where you see a lot of love for a certain Tamiya chassis/platform but just can't seem to "get" the allure? For me, I've always been somewhat confused by the following the WT-01 and CC-01 has. I totally understand these are great cars for some people but I just can't get into them. The CC-01 passion has been high around here lately and I think I'm finally understanding why folks like them. I've decided, it might not be for me, but I think I understand at least. The WT-01 still has me stumped. I'm aware of their attributes. They're totally bulletproof and can go places buggies can't. Sadly to me they seem slow, lack any drama/dynamics. They go where you point them in a perfectly normal predictable manner, devoid of personality.  I don't want to offend any lovers of the chassis. It's only my opinion, but I want to understand the allure like I'm starting to with the CC-01. I have a 4wd WT-01 that I tried in dozens of different configurations in an attempt to gain interest. Only when I went all-out with 8.4v, twin 15T power and long shocks did the platform come alive to me.

I know there must be others like me. Maybe someone doesn't like an SRB or isn't interested in the Bruiser. I just want to gain or understand an appreciation for all Tamiya models.

[Tamiya TXT axle gear help]

That's exactly what I need . I myself, could use 4 right off the bat for my TXT-1 and TXT-2 Agrios. Very interested! I really love these trucks and want to keep them on the road for years to come.

[Tamiya TXT axle gear help]

Thanks for the ideas guys! I think I'll try the shim stock on the flat and then add the Loctite bearing lock for extra insurance.  

[Tamiya TXT axle gear help]

I've got a wear problem on both my TXT-1 and Agrios in the upper axle gear train. The third gear in, right after the two bevel gears, referred to as the MR16 drive gear, which meshes with the main diff gear below, is suffering from premature wear. The gear is not splined to the shaft, but features a semi circular hole that mates with the end of bevel gear shaft MR10. This semi circular hole is wearing rapidly. The gears must be diecast aluminum, as that familar "aluminum grinding paste" (like Tamiya aluminum pinions) is present. I've seen pics of the inside hole of this gear actually "exploded" outwards and stripped. I'm trying to think of any way to bond this gear to the shaft to stop the wear. My first truck ran twin 14.4v 550s, but the Agrios runs a Castle SV2 4600 motor. The punch control is turedn up to ease driveline shock and bring the truck up to speed slowly. This has saved the driveshafts, but this gear still wears. The big problem is I can only source the replacement gear by getting the whole diecast bag at $50. I know most don't mess around with these big trucks anymore, but any insight would be helpful.

[Can't decide.]

The High Lift trucks are more scalers that can crawl somewhat, than actual crawlers. A CR-01 is more of a true Tamiya Crawler. That said, the HLs are nice runners. They don't get the attention they used to since the Bruiser got re-re'd but I still find them fun and robust. I just came inside from running mine now as a matter of fact . The Tundra has a longer chassis.wheelbase, but otherwise is the same as the other two. All 3 HLs benefit from larger 2.2 wheels/tires IMO, but the Hilux NEEDS them to avoid looking silly. The bigger tires help with much need ground clearance. Shifting gears is neat too. The CR-01 will out-crawl a HL by a mile. The HL's scale leaf springs are no match for the slinky coils and 4-links of the CR-01. Crawling in general is a slower paced, thoughtful way to enjoy RC. Not quite as adrenaline pumping as a buggy, but satisfying in its own way. The Super Hotshot is a great way to enjoy quick vintage 4wd. They have a nice heft to them that makes them feel substantial. All are great builds. In the end its: slow = CR01, medium (thanks to the 3-speed transmission) = HL or fast = Super Hotshot.

[fwd buggy]

I never knew what that buggy was called. It's the first time I've seen it in color. RC Car Action had a tiny black and white photo of the Camel liveried car in the "Inside Scoop" section of the mag way back when. It was long after the Nichimo Spirit FF but just before the the Kyosho Maxxum FF.

[Madwolf Anyone?]

Thanks for the history lesson guys. I did know this car as the Monogram Madwolf in the States back in the day. I don't think many folks gave it a chance as Monogram was known mainly for their plastic model kits (like Revell). If I remember, they also had another kit called the Tornado with unique lay-down front shocks.

[Thoughts on the Madcap?]

It's a shame really, as the Madcap (and its brother the Saint Dragon) really are good kits, apart from the the dodgy diff. Build the diff correctly and keep the motor choice mild, and it is serviceable. The buggy is more plasticy than the Astute, but like Kontemax alluded to, simpler, more durable and lighter. With a metal motor mount, dampers and bearings, it makes a nice runner that I've seen compete on par with RC10 at the time. It was marketed as the beginner buggy in the newer line of vehicles Tamiya put out at the time (Astute, Madcap, King Cab, Egress) and showed great potential. In the States, I know the battle between the RC10 and the JR-X2 was heating up around that time and folks weren't looking a Tamiya for a track car.

[Why can't I sell my cars?]

I stopped trying to sell cars too. There's a handful I have that could go. I take them down, look at them, remember they still make me happy even if they're retired at the moment, and put it back on the shelf. Plus, I never know when I'll get reinvigorated about a certain platform and put it back into service. I do feel a little guilt from having so many. I struggle to be more minimalistic as I don't want to be buried under my material possessions as so many Americans are. Then I remember the absolute pain it is to sell (especially locally), the ridiculous low ball offers I get (like $20) and then I'm OK keeping with everything.

[Original Bruiser frame finish]

 Thanks!

[Original Bruiser frame finish]

When the Bruiser got re-re'd I remembered some folks mentioning the new black finish wore off it in some spots. The original Bruiser frame appeared to be bare steel. How was is coated to prevent rust or was it a silver finish?

[Tamiyaclub and your purchases]

Yeah, this site is pretty cool that way. Everybody seems fairly respectful. When I venture to some other full size auto forums I'm shocked how rude and unhelpful some folks can be, but that's the internet sometimes.

[Jeep Wrangler High Lift]

I dug through some google images and found a brown High Lift Jeep that Wyoming must have built although how he did it, I don't know. I agree, the HL trans is pretty big to fit into a short wheelbase Jeep.

[Dying Holiday Buggy wheels]

After doing some digging through the showrooms looking for something else, I found kontemax is right. Wyoming dyed his HB wheels with black Rit. Since the $2.98 for Rit is cheaper than new wheels, I'll give it a go. 

[New stuff and the good old days]

I'd take a Traxxas E-Maxx back and run over buggies and crash it into trees and freighten small children and jump it 90 meters in the air and launch it over a house and everybody would be like "WOW, THAT'S  AMAZING!!!" No. No. No. I'm joking. (no offense to Traxxas guys, it is a great truck in many ways).

Seriously, I'm going to totally agree with Hibernaculum on this one. While there are some great Tamiya vehicles produced after 1989, I could live without them. Everything I truly need or want comes from 1989 on back. I would run more Nicads today if they were still plentiful. I've never touched a Lipo and hopefully never will need to. I give in to ESCs because they're cheap nowadays, but still enjoy MSCs. I love the sheer simple mechanical/electrical aspect of them as opposed to the "mystery" going on inside an ESC. I know how ESCs work, but like watching an MSC work. I still use AM radio gear with the huge receivers if possible. Brushed modified motors certainly need upkeep, but they sure did look cool and aggressive. I miss all the little tricks racers did and the effort it took made winning all the more satisfying.

Like Hib, I agree the internet is great for bringing us all together and making parts hunting a bit more successful. 

[Dying Holiday Buggy wheels]

Yes, that's them. I have a set lying around, unused, because their color clashes with all my runners.

[Dying Holiday Buggy wheels]

Does anybody know if those rather bright, yellow wheels that come on the DT-02 Holiday Buggy can be dyed black?

[Jeep Wrangler High Lift]

I'm interested in putting a High Lift chassis under a Tamiya Jeep Wrangler shell. I just can't accept the IFS front end found on a CC-01 under a Jeep. A shortened frame is definitely a requirement. Possibly turning the transmission backwards for body clearance? I'm positive someone must have built something like this before, but I'm having trouble finding any detailed pics. Any pics, links or suggestions would be of great help. Thanks!

[Tamiyaclub and your purchases]

In being part of this online community for 12 years or so I've made some observations on how it's affected my purchases. They seem to fall into two categories. First, a new model approaches production and there's quite a buzz about it. I remember when the DF-03 Dark Impact was first introduced. There was a great deal of interest here on the forum. It was far better in many respects than the DF-02, despite the fact the later intro of the DB-01 kinda of seemed to kill it. As details emerged, people (including me) got swept up in the excitement. One finds oneself saying "I've got to get me one of those". I wonder if the excitement being spurred on by fellow Tamiya enthusiast help sell more cars? The second way the club affects purchases is research. Often times this concerns a model that's been out for a while. For instance, when I considered getting a CC-01, I searched the forum for people's opinions, stories, etc. This makes the club a wonderful resource to make informed purchasing decisions. How about you? Has Tamiyaclub played a roll in growing your collection?