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About Mackiatoe

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  • Location
    Tonbridge, Kent, UK
  • Interests
    Engineering, Aircraft, Cars, Computers, PC Gaming.

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  1. Thanks for all you help. I think I have a little summer project now with finding a new body By the way @JennyMo, what was the name/part number for those rear body mounts? Cheers, Mack
  2. Is anyone else thinking this looks very Thunderbirds-esque?
  3. Put some old ones that I had spare in it, and seems to have improved slightly. Have a look at this .GIF that I made via Imgflip GIF Maker Plus these extra shots. Not sure why, but this actually quite a lot of fun to drive. Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com Photos are a little low-quality to save on people's bandwidth Cheers, Mack
  4. Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to dig out some spare ball bearings and see how they work.
  5. Thanks for the tips wolfdog Hmmm, it does. I don't know a huge ammount about the origins of the body of this thing, so hey Nice vehicle you have there. I'll have to take it apart a bit more and have a look inside. Ahh yes, I remember this. Took the wheels off to have a look at their construction and must have put them on backwards. Cheers, Mack
  6. @Gruntfuggly I've never really heard of GP in R/C though I probably will glue the tires. Might give some *extra* traction.
  7. Hi all! While waiting for some parts to arrive - my Brat is out of action - I got bored and decided to dig out a rather old vehicle of mine. Behold: the Tamiya QuickDrive Trailmaster! Uploaded with ImageShack.com This was my first, proper hobby-grade R/C car back from 2001, although I was too young to properly understand R/C cars back then Surprisingly, it practically all works fine. Unbelievably, the battery in the transmitter still works, despite not being used in ages while still connected. However, the battery I had for the car back in 2001 was a little 9.6v NiCD from GP (not a well known brand) and sadly it doesn't work anymore. I believe I may have left it connected to the car for a long time without usage, and it just doesn't charge properly. However, I was able to get my standard 6 cell NiMH pack to work with it, with a little improvisation: Uploaded with ImageShack.com Not practical, but it worked. Right, time for some driving! Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com Excuse the quality of the shots, they're frames from a video I took on my phone and they never tend to come out too well... This thing is fun to drive, but the harsh truth is that it's pretty rubbish. Tires aren't glued, and have very little grip with wheel, let alone the ground. The stock servo seems to like turning to the left more than the right, not sure why that is but taking it apart to have a look should fix that. Also, the motor in it is only a little 280 sized thing and is very slow. I'd say it does 15 mph max on a full charge, on tarmac. But, this was never intended to be a high end car. It really was a basic as you could get back in 2001. I intend to get a new battery like my old one, so that it'll fit in the car and not have to be taped on So, does anyone else have one of these/still have one of these? And has anyone had any luck trying to upgrade it? I'm not sure it's actually possible due to how it's built, but feel free to discuss the QD range here Cheers, Mack
  8. @Mongoose Thanks for the advice. By the way, how did you get that rear bumper setup? Looks very nice!
  9. Hi all, I currently have a Re-re Brat and need some advice regrading bodies. Is there any way of mounting a different body on to the chassis? The problem is to do with the fact that the body mounts are not really adjustable, thus limiting the type of body I can put on. However, has anyone had any luck in putting a different body, other than a stock Brat lexan shell, on to theirs? If you can suggest a body that would fit on the Brat/Frog chassis without too much difficulty, then please suggest it. Cheers, Mack.
  10. I just searched up the 'F104W' which I assume is the closet thing to what you're looking for, and it looks like it'll take a standard 6 cell NiMH pack, like this one here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sport-power-3300-stick-pack-7.2v/rc-car-products/33010 Just about every Tamiya will take one of these, and it's also recommended by ModelsportUK if you buy the car from their website. Hope this helps! (BTW, F104W chasis is here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sport-power-3300-stick-pack-7.2v/rc-car-products/33010 )
  11. Hi all I have recently upgraded my Brat to 2.4ghz, and bought this pretty basic 2.4GHz radio from Tamco, found here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamco-rc-2.4ghz-2-channel-fhss-sport-stick-combo/rc-car-products/367560 It's been working fine up until today, where for some reason, every time I pushed the the stick fully forward (as in full speed) the motor would just cut out, and not respond for a few seconds. You could drive happily with the stick below full push, but every time you pushed the stick fully forwards the motor cuts out. I swapped out the Tamco receiver for my original Acoms 27mhz receiver and everything worked fine and as normal. I therefore assume the problem is with the radio. Could anyone suggest a reason for this happening? And how may I fix it without returning or re-buying the radio set? Thanks in advance, Mack
  12. Thanks for all your help. I'll buy them before and then see whether the shocks will fit
  13. Looks amazing! What shocks did you use on the front?
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