Mackiatoe

Thanks for all you help. I think I have a little summer project now with finding a new body By the way @JennyMo, what was the name/part number for those rear body mounts? Cheers, Mack

Is anyone else thinking this looks very Thunderbirds-esque?

Put some old ones that I had spare in it, and seems to have improved slightly. Have a look at this .GIF that I made via Imgflip GIF Maker Plus these extra shots. Not sure why, but this actually quite a lot of fun to drive. Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com Photos are a little low-quality to save on people's bandwidth Cheers, Mack

Sounds like a good idea. I'll have to dig out some spare ball bearings and see how they work.

Thanks for the tips wolfdog Hmmm, it does. I don't know a huge ammount about the origins of the body of this thing, so hey Nice vehicle you have there. I'll have to take it apart a bit more and have a look inside. Ahh yes, I remember this. Took the wheels off to have a look at their construction and must have put them on backwards. Cheers, Mack

@Sayer What do you mean?

@Gruntfuggly I've never really heard of GP in R/C though I probably will glue the tires. Might give some *extra* traction.

Hi all! While waiting for some parts to arrive - my Brat is out of action - I got bored and decided to dig out a rather old vehicle of mine. Behold: the Tamiya QuickDrive Trailmaster! Uploaded with ImageShack.com This was my first, proper hobby-grade R/C car back from 2001, although I was too young to properly understand R/C cars back then Surprisingly, it practically all works fine. Unbelievably, the battery in the transmitter still works, despite not being used in ages while still connected. However, the battery I had for the car back in 2001 was a little 9.6v NiCD from GP (not a well known brand) and sadly it doesn't work anymore. I believe I may have left it connected to the car for a long time without usage, and it just doesn't charge properly. However, I was able to get my standard 6 cell NiMH pack to work with it, with a little improvisation: Uploaded with ImageShack.com Not practical, but it worked. Right, time for some driving! Uploaded with ImageShack.com Uploaded with ImageShack.com Excuse the quality of the shots, they're frames from a video I took on my phone and they never tend to come out too well... This thing is fun to drive, but the harsh truth is that it's pretty rubbish. Tires aren't glued, and have very little grip with wheel, let alone the ground. The stock servo seems to like turning to the left more than the right, not sure why that is but taking it apart to have a look should fix that. Also, the motor in it is only a little 280 sized thing and is very slow. I'd say it does 15 mph max on a full charge, on tarmac. But, this was never intended to be a high end car. It really was a basic as you could get back in 2001. I intend to get a new battery like my old one, so that it'll fit in the car and not have to be taped on So, does anyone else have one of these/still have one of these? And has anyone had any luck trying to upgrade it? I'm not sure it's actually possible due to how it's built, but feel free to discuss the QD range here Cheers, Mack

@Mongoose Thanks for the advice. By the way, how did you get that rear bumper setup? Looks very nice!

Hi all, I currently have a Re-re Brat and need some advice regrading bodies. Is there any way of mounting a different body on to the chassis? The problem is to do with the fact that the body mounts are not really adjustable, thus limiting the type of body I can put on. However, has anyone had any luck in putting a different body, other than a stock Brat lexan shell, on to theirs? If you can suggest a body that would fit on the Brat/Frog chassis without too much difficulty, then please suggest it. Cheers, Mack.

I just searched up the 'F104W' which I assume is the closet thing to what you're looking for, and it looks like it'll take a standard 6 cell NiMH pack, like this one here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sport-power-3300-stick-pack-7.2v/rc-car-products/33010 Just about every Tamiya will take one of these, and it's also recommended by ModelsportUK if you buy the car from their website. Hope this helps! (BTW, F104W chasis is here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-sport-power-3300-stick-pack-7.2v/rc-car-products/33010 )

Hi all I have recently upgraded my Brat to 2.4ghz, and bought this pretty basic 2.4GHz radio from Tamco, found here: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamco-rc-2.4ghz-2-channel-fhss-sport-stick-combo/rc-car-products/367560 It's been working fine up until today, where for some reason, every time I pushed the the stick fully forward (as in full speed) the motor would just cut out, and not respond for a few seconds. You could drive happily with the stick below full push, but every time you pushed the stick fully forwards the motor cuts out. I swapped out the Tamco receiver for my original Acoms 27mhz receiver and everything worked fine and as normal. I therefore assume the problem is with the radio. Could anyone suggest a reason for this happening? And how may I fix it without returning or re-buying the radio set? Thanks in advance, Mack

Thanks for all your help. I'll buy them before and then see whether the shocks will fit

Looks amazing! What shocks did you use on the front?

Hmmm ok... but would the Absima sjocks I showed before work?

Hi all. Feel free to direct this thread to another place if it's in the wrong location Anyways, I am planning to buy the JunFac Tamiya Frog Aluminium Front Shock Towers set (found here: http://www.fusionhob...rs-p/j20221.htm). However, I have found it hard to find the name/make of any shocks that will fit them. I believe the length recommened for them is 60/62mm, but I not sure about what size the connectors on each of the shocks have to be to match the size of hole on the shock towers. I have found these Absima shocks, which are 62mm, and come with optional ends: http://www.modelspor...products/369640 . Does anyone know if they will fit? If not, then could an owner of this suspension kit direct me to the shocks they've used? Preferably, the price needs to be around £20 or less for 2, although if they do cost more then I'd still like to see Thanks in advance, Mack

Yep, it does come with one, and I've found the edge Thanks!

Hi all. I know this may sound silly, but I've actually forgotten how to remove the protective film off a polycarbonate body. I recently bought a new body shell for my Brat off of ebay, and it was a Tamiya-made one. I have of course done it before with the body that came with the kit, but I can't seem to find an edge on the body. Any help on how to do it? Thanks!

What is clear coat? I saw this on Modelsport - is this clear coat? http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-ts-13-clear-acrylic-spray/rc-car-products/16350 Thanks for the help guys by the way

This is just a quick post, but if it should be in a different area, just say Ok so I'm thinking of getting a Midnight Pumpkin and putting a nice paint job on it. But, I'm only used to painting Polycarbonate/Lexan bodies, so how do I paint an ABS body? I've heard it's alomost like the 'oppostie' of polycarbonate bodies. So far as I know, you paint the main colour (base coat) on first, then paint details over the top of that. Or, do you need to paint each section induvidualy and mask areas? Please help! Also, does anyone have any tips for masking? Such as what tape to use etc... Thanks! Mackiatoe

Wow, thanks for all the suggestions! It wasn't to do with any of these though, I forgot to put in one of the screws that held the gearbox and the chasis together (after taking the gearbox out for cleaning), so the whole left side could move very easily. Found the screw, and put it in and all is fine. Thanks guys!

Thanks. I'm guessing the best way to lower the ammount of play in the trailing arm is to tighten the screws?

Hi I recently have been fixing up my Brat, which was in a bit of a state. Yesterday, I got the electrics up and runing, and took it out for a run. All seems to be fine. The only problem is the rear axle. On the left hand side, it keeps poping out. I have tried gaffer-taping the joint boot to give it a bit more strength with the axle bone, but still no use. I also tried some cable ties around the joint boot, but it keeps happening. It usually runs fine on tarmac, but the moment it has any bump, it disconects from the rear suspension piece (far left side) and pops out. So, has anyone else has a similar problem and manage to fix it? While this may seem a bit stupid, the Joint Boot on the left side is torn in one place, and the end next to the gear box has been frayed/torn up slightly. Is it worth replacing it? Thanks in advanced