Bananasmoothie1975

Have been working on this old thing for a bit. One of the chassis rails has lost most of its chrome (rust) so I wire-wheeled it back to bare steel. Same done to various smaller rust patches. Still yet to decide on leaving it bare or chrome paint. Thoughts? The better chassis rail has most of its chrome, have left it "as is" for now, but might look funny if I paint the other one. Rebuilt the gearbox thanks to the excellent service manuals available, inside it was pretty clean but missing shift spring B and one of the 5x12.5mm collars. Still turns and shifts smoothly. Cleaned the silicone from the outside, didn't reapply any new stuff and used sparing amounts of lithium grease during assembly. How do you guys rebuild these if they are to be very lightly run (ie paved/indoors) ? Absent parts (besides body): Mechanical Motor (anyone found a 750 motor in appliances or power tools??) one 1150 bushing for diff pinion shaft Chassis rear bumper staysPlastic Lower servo box cover Upper radio cover Battery tray Rear bumper Wheel inner H parts Rubber trans/shock bushings 2x shock boots trans plugs Body - all I haven't yet scoped out the rere Bruiser instructions for parts compatibility but hoping some will be ok. Feel free to chime in with any suggestions, I've rebuilt plenty of old rc vehicles in the past but this is my first 3 speeder! Cheers Dave

Yep, bit of work to do Not sure which path I'll go with yet, I do have the gearbox with shafts too, but would need batt box, 750 motor, lower plastic radio cover, the all important body bits plus others that I haven't noticed yet! Is it a total sin to mix OG with re re parts??

Couple of pics

Thanks for that Wheels are 3 piece, but as for the battery box I don't know because it's not there! Can't post pics as I'm already past the upload quota on here

Better angle

HPI Wheely King tyres are a close fit, shown on the front of one of my Brutes here (rim protrudes slightly).

Hi All I've just got hold of a very rough 3spd chassis, but is there a way to tell if it's Bruiser or Mountaineer? Have done some googling but the wheels/tyres look the same, not sure what else to look for. Cheers Dave

Extemely old thread, but I'm looking for Kyosho Shadow/ AS part SB-3

Old thread, but I'm chasing a Kyosho Shadow part, SB-3. Anyone got one?

Hi All Just started a fan group for the older Kyosho Car Crusher series of monster trucks. Big Brute Nitro Brute Hi Rider Vette Double Dare Big Boss USA 1 (electric and nitro) https://www.facebook.com/groups/1559558210958921/ Feel free to come join and have a look

Painting practice Almost box art..

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Semi restored runner

Rather than store/throw out old bodies, I repair them internally and use them for airbrush practice. Here's a recent one, most of it is painted except for the "Hornet racing Team" along the sides.

Hi, owning both original and re re Hornets, I know the rear suspension torque load problem well. While a lot of clever thinking has gone into improving the Hornet rear suspension, I reassessed the issue from my frugal technical perspective and came up with this.. Aim: to reduce the rear suspension torque binding under load, while not impairing suspension roll or compression (as simply and cheaply as possible!). Solution: Fishing line Method: Secure one end of the line to one of the resistor mount screw holes (A), then pass back and under the upper rear-most screw head (B), the forward again and secure in the other resistor mount screw hole (C). Tension until it just starts to pull on the rear shocks. I used self tapping screws in the resistor mount holes to secure the line ends. I also backed out the rear g/box screw to get the line under the head, wrap around once, then retighten. If you wanted to centre the gearbox anchor point better, you could make a small hole through the screw boss, so the line passes under the screw thread. I didn't bother and it still worked well. This mod wouldn't work using a rigid link instead of flexible line, as it would resist gearbox rotation/shock compression in the desired direction as well, hence using a tension-only line. This won't make your Hornet handle like a modern race buggy, but it WILL stop your rear suspension binding up under torque (THROTTLE!) loading. Go on, try it, it's easy and CHEAP like me!!!!

nah go and run the thing, just don't try backflips etc like modern trucks do I've got 3 of them, fun on sand.

Wheels are interchangeable from old Kyosho's to Sankyo's. What became of all these bits?