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beefmuffin

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About beefmuffin

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  • Location
    New Jersey USA
  • Interests
    long walks on the beach, puppies, uh, did i say puppies? if not, then puppies.

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  1. Hey @netsmithUK looks like the main site is crashing with a 500 internal server error. Just a heads up.
  2. Hi all - I wanted to revive this thread because I recently came across a case where a GH2 re-release part had "Made in Japan" on it, just like vintage parts. I'll post pictures soon, but has anyone else come across this on any of the recent re-releases?
  3. Original Hornet (and Hotshot, Grasshopper 2, and any other white wheels) are definitely visibly different in color to the re-release ones. The difference is striking and you don't need them to be side by side to notice. The originals are more of a bone-white while the re-releases are a very bright white color. As far as I'm concerned, don't put re-release wheels on a vintage buggy unless it's purely a runner and you don't care that it's vintage. For example, if I ever bought a Hornet advertised as 'vintage' and it had re-release wheels on it I'd consider it to be a dishonest listing and feel ripped off. Pretty much all vintage Tamiya wheels differ in some respect to the re-release versions, and in many cases you can tell them apart by looking for "Made in Japan" somewhere on the inside surface of the wheels, which is only there on vintage parts; alternately if there is a material code (eg "ABS" or "PS" etc), a part number, or a copyright date, those are all signs that the wheel is not vintage. I made the mistake of using re-release wheels in a couple of my early restoration projects and later had to scrupulously replace them all with vintage. It was a waste of time and money not to just wait to get vintage parts from the start. At least if you care about what is vintage vs what is not.
  4. Just getting back to this thread now... I finally finished a new Lunchbox with a yellow color like I wanted. I used TS-34 Camel Yellow - so much better than the standard yellow.
  5. Hey guys - I'm finally painting/finishing my new vintage Clodbuster body. I was lucky enough to snag the real deal totally untouched years ago and have the bowtie/Chevy grill/tailgate and decals to finish it. I've already put on a coat of primer and one coat of Italian Red. It looks decent enough, but maybe the red is a little light/bright. My question is should I definitely do another coat or two before decals or go ahead with the one coat? I'm not the greatest painter and I noticed a little dust here and there already under the paint, so I don't want to make that progressively worse with each coat, or make some other kind of mistake and ruin it. Thoughts?
  6. Speaking of Parma - you might just want to consider doing a lexan beetle shell up as a Monster Beetle and swapping that on only for running. I do that with a few of my hard-bodied runners (Lunchbox, Midnight Pumpkin, BF3). The lexan beetle shells available are a much better match than the F150 Blackfoot analogues. In addition to being less prone to being destroyed they are also lighter and lower the C.O.G. which helps stability A LOT.
  7. Hi guys - it's been a while since I posted a build thread, and this isn't much of one, but I added a showroom entry showing some of the little oddities about the early/Mk1 Hornet kits. As most of you know even the vintage kits were produced over a number of years, with revisions to parts and instructions along the way. One of the most famous is that of the Mk1 Hotshot with the 3-hole (weak) bumper. Well the differences with the Mk1 Hornet are subtler but they are definitely noticeable when it comes time to do the MSC bits. Have a look! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134409&id=39840
  8. https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/zmjkwj/how-pebble-users-are-keeping-the-smartwatch-alive-3-years-after-it-supposedly-died How Pebble Users Are Keeping the Smartwatch Alive 3 Years After It Supposedly Died "As a longtime Pebble owner myself, I suspect a less tangible factor at work: No other smartwatches are as joyful to use. The software is filled with fun little flourishes—my kids always enjoy seeing the sneaking mouse animation that pops up when you enable "Quiet Time" for notifications—and if you're unsatisfied with the thousands of watch faces that people have created, you can easily make one yourself. Even the low-tech display contributes in some way to Pebble's geeky charm, and in its afterlife, wearing one almost seem like a badge of honor."
  9. Here's the ebay listing in case you guys are interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333374411480
  10. Just took pics to list it. Attaching a couple below. Will post link once listed.
  11. Will post a like here once it's listed up. Might do it tonight.
  12. Yep I had the exact same issue. Here are the leftover decals from a Saint Dragon I just finished with TBG body and MCI decals...
  13. You've had a few Pebbles? I use iPhones and I love my Pebbles. They've had always-on screens and 6-9 day battery life for 6 years. They are great smartwatches, for use as watches first and apps etc second - but that's what I want. You can get the top-of-the-line ones for under US$100 and have a collection for less than you'd pay for an Apple or Samsung, etc watch. Plus, you can develop your own apps and watchfaces easily, if you can't find what you want among the hundreds of apps and watchfaces already available. Here are some of my favorite nerdy watchfaces...
  14. Do it! Just remember these are for enthusiasts at this point (like vintage Tamiya, etc). The company is gone and support is community-based. If you get one, join this Sub-Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/pebble/
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