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beefmuffin

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Everything posted by beefmuffin

  1. Hi guys OK so I recently had another chance to take some side-by-side vintage vs re-re parts pics in the form of original gold Hotshot / Supershot wheels vs their re-release Super Hotshot counterparts. It turned out I had the re-re versions on my Supershot so I swapped them out with a NIP set of originals I had. That just goes to show how important it is to help people know the difference. I keep finding more and more mistakes I'd made over the years due to lack of information about how to know the correct parts to use for restorations. I've gotten better with experience but that doesn't help others who are getting started. Anyway, let's start with the rear wheels. Vintage on the left, re-re on the right. You can see differences in the material and finish side-by-side, but that isn't much help when you only have one set and are trying to determine whether it's original or not. The "RCC HOTSHOT REAR" embossing is identical but as is so often the case the vintage parts have "MADE IN JAPAN" clearly labeled somewhere while most if not all the re-release versions are either missing this or have had it blocked out, like so... So far ALL the re-release vs vintage Tamiya wheels I've examined can all be differentiated by looking for "MADE IN JAPAN". If it's there, you can almost certainly be sure they are original. The next difference with the rear wheels is that the originals have nothing embossed on the insides (vintage on the left, re-re on the right): It can be tricky... in fact it's almost misleading that the original Hotshot model number has been added to the re-release wheels in addition to the (c) 1985. Don't be fooled by this! Without knowing better I'd probably be fooled by this... maybe that's how I was fooled into installing them on my Supershot in the first place. The vintage wheel is totally blank on the inside like so... The re-release gold-plated wheels have a notably deeper gold richness and hue than the originals. I don't know if this is due to age - with the gold fading to closer to silver in places on the originals - or due to a change in the material or process. You can see the difference below, vintage on the left (note the blocked out "MADE IN JAPAN" embossing at this angle as well. Rather than repeating all that for the FRONT wheels I'll just say that the differences are identical to those for the rears and just insert the pics below...
  2. Hi guys - I've got a couple auctions ending the next couple of days for: a super-nice new-built Futaba FX10 w/ New Body, Box, Manual http://www.ebay.com/itm/331958110943 a super-rare NIB FX10 Body Set http://www.ebay.com/itm/331958122649
  3. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?id=39840&cid=120047&t=815201645907 - Sealed NIP Vintage Fox Chassis - Sealed NIB Vtg Front Stabilizer Set - Sealed NIP Vtg Fox Gearbox Sprue - Sealed NIP Vtg Fox Rubber Parts Bag - Sealed NIP Novafox Driver Z Parts $60 + 10 postage (US) or at-cost (non-US)
  4. I think the idea was to make it basically a bolt-on option that won't cost as much as a Thorp setup or other $200-300 options. Hey Max about how much do you think it would cost for one of these? Cheap? Not cheap?
  5. Yeah this video was posted by Derrick Durbin who is the designer, He's trying to get his TC login approved (@TWINSET @netsmithUK) so he can join this discussion.
  6. I happen to know that this kit was made by one guy who hand makes these parts and did it for his own KC. I and others encouraged him to offer it to others who might want to do the same so he made a bunch of extra sets. I doubt these will be available indefinitely so if anyone is interested even just to have ready for then their stock trans kicks the bucket I'd suggest grabbing a set before they are gone. I probably will even though I don't run mine, because I think it's a cool idea. Doesn't even require special dogbones or axles or anything.
  7. Just wanted to let people know that there's now a new alternative transmission option out there for the King Cab and Monster Racer. It replaces the gull gearbox, diff and outdrives with a bulletproof RC10 Stealth gearbox / diff / outdrives (you source / supply this) and there is a kit including custom mounting plates etc that allow this to be a drop-in replacement. Pretty exciting stuff! I don't run my King Cab so I don't need it myself, but given the expensive alternatives to the weak KC transmission this seems like a great option for those who do. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-nissan-king-cab-hi-lux-monster-racer-stealth-transmission-conversion-kit-/331934782225
  8. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331919950933 Vintage Tamiya Bigwig Hotshot Sand Scorcher Clodbuster NIB Wheels 50293 50121 NIP Bigwig Moon Craft Wheels P/N 5293 50293 For Models: Bigwig (58057) NIB Sand Scorcher Front Wheel + Tire Set P/N 5121 50121 For Models: Sand Scorcher (58016), Frog (58041), Hornet (58045), Grasshopper (58043) NIP Hotshot / Supershot Gold Plated Wheels P/N 266 50266 For Models: Hotshot (58047), Supershot (58054) NIP Grasshopper II (Super G) Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Yellow) P/N 49022 For Models: Grasshopper II Super G (49501), Grasshopper II Super G (92018), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NIP Super Hornet Front Day Glow Wheel Set (Orange) P/N 0445495 For Models: Super Hornet (58124), Grasshopper II (58074), Fox (58051), Wild One (58050) NOS Original White Clod Buster Wheels P/N 0555026 For Models: Clod Buster (58065), Bullhead (58089) Price dropped to $120. $20 more than the last set of Moon Crafts alone that sold on ebay went for...
  9. LOL - I'd never get your don'g wrong, @Pintopower. Yeah I think we are the two biggest Hornet 2 fans around! I have two actually, so I'm selling one. How did u create those vents, dremel?
  10. Hey @mongoose1983 I haven't forgotten about you with the Blackfoot parts. One of the things I've been holding off for is that @Pintopower's prototype 3d-printed Blackfoot grill is for you. I donated the BF3-style grill and when he's done Alberto's going to send me back the upgraded one and I'll be sending it on down to you with the other stuff.
  11. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331918064630 Vintage Tamiya Super Hornet, Kit No. 58124 ** Classic Hornet Alternative Style Very Good Used Condition w/ Many New Parts Including Body, Wheels, Bumper New Super Hornet Body has Classic Hornet Decals Applied -- Non-Official (Better Looking) Variation See last pic for Tamiya USA Super Hornet webpage showing similar alternate design Like-new Tamiya TEU-101BK ESC Tamiya Sport Tuned Motor Futaba Attack II Radio Set Included as Bonus, Not Guaranteed Working Transmitter powers on, Tx and Rx match, crystals appear to match ESC, motor both confirmed running well when using a different radio
  12. Hmm I'm guessing that it was primarily @larbut himself filling in most of this info. I think the difference is that submitting it that way depends more on each individual doing the submitting, where here we're doing it much more collaboratively. Then @Hibernaculum organizing everything is great. I also don't see why we wouldn't be fine with the same info making its way onto Tamiyabase.com... unless anyone else here has any objections, I wouldn't. The better to share the information as widely as possible.
  13. @Hibernaculum I'm sure @Frog Jumper or someone will have the answer on the Frog Z parts and if not I'll sort that ASAP. In other new, as another non-sequential piece of the puzzle I was lucky enough this week to score a complete NIP set of vintage Avante wheels. I also had a NIP set of Avante 2011 ones. They're quite similar in color and form of the wheels themselves, although the shade of yellow/orange is slightly darker / less bright in the originals... in a way similar to the close to perfect form of the various white re-re 3-piece buggy wheels... the vintage are a slightly darker / less bright hue. It may not be that visible in these photos, and unless you have them side by side it would be hard to know one from the other. Luckily there are many ways to know the difference: packaging, sprue-design and writing, writing on the wheels themselves (does not seem to apply to the locking hub covers, which seem to be completely indistinguishable once off-sprue). I don't have time at the moment to graphically highlight the differences or even describe them in detail here... already spent the time I had getting the pics. Partway thu the battery in my Nikon died and I had to switch to a little ultra-compact Canon, which can be seen in the pics but doesn't detract from illustrating the side-by-side details of the differences btw vintage and re-re. In the below pics I'll order the pics so that for each feature the first set of pics is for the vintage followed by the re-re.
  14. It all depends on your priorities - and this also is where the change in Tamiya's own priorities stands out as betraying the one thing that they were always the undisputed leader in. Tamiya was and still is, foremost, a model company. Despite whatever efforts to remain competitive against their increasingly out-performing R/C makers, Tamiya was never willing to go beyond a certain point in order to place pure functionality above detail and originality. At least BITD. If making a car out of a solid plank of wood with a blob body made it a much better performer, it was anathema to their entire philosophy, and not worth shedding all of that core identity just to help a small fraction of their fan base be the cool kids at the track. There was - and to an extent, still is - only so far they were / are willing to go placing pure function over distinctiveness / design. Which is good because the version of Tamiya were it to have followed that path would be one we would no longer recognize, and would hardly stand out from the crowd of race-oriented companies, and potentially still failing to excel in that department would just make them mediocre in all ways.
  15. I knew my reaction to seeing the body holes filled in would stoke people to pounce on me with that reaction. But the whole point of my issue with some of these re-re's is that they are half-*****. One of the things my dad really hammered into me growing up was "if something's worth doing, it's worth doing right". So although I like seeing them make a bit more effort with one part of the whole, it also illuminates that they could easily have done more any number of times, in addition to demonstrating an inherently inconsistent effort. None of those things apply in my opinion to the re-releases of Kyosho, Associated, (etc?)... even some number of Tamiya's re-re's are nigh indistinguishable from the original without a magnifying glass and knowing where to look. Somehow, the phrase "meh, good enough" just doesn't fit the picture of what Tamiya stands for... you know, the "If it's Tamiya, it's right" people. So again, while I understand the perspective - perfectly valid in its own way - that "good enough" is actually good enough. It just isn't consistent with what has led my 30-something year old self to care about this stuff still / again. If Tamiya had operated at a similar level of effort / attention to detail BITD I'm not sure any of us / this would even be here right now talking about any of this.
  16. Yeah - it's not like it isn't totally clear why they're replacing the logos... and they're making up their own so there's no constraint on how it can look or anything. How far off from the BFGoodrich logo to they really have to get anyway? It's not like they're a competitor. No one's going to claim to have been duped by the similar logo into buying 2.2" Bruiser tires for their 1:1 vehicle. They already have a fake sponsor "GR Racing Fuel". Or "BFEngineering" 'BF' as in Blackfoot. Or heck, just "Off Roader" like on the Hornet decals, but in white block text. The "Brite" spotlight decals make my eye twitch too. I guess maybe they'd be too afraid to replace the 'K' 'C' and 'Daylighter' with other letters arranged in the familiar smile... but even 'B' 'L' 'Britelighter' arranged like : \ as opposed to : ) would be better than the "Brite" logo perched 3x over the rollbar on the the BFT2016.
  17. Wow... that's more than I was expecting. So why do this -- actually making this body incompatible with other recent Tamiya releases like the BF3 -- and not do it on the Monster Beetle? Why have officially licensed VW branding on the Monster Beetle, and no Ford branding here? And who on earth thought it was a good idea to replace the BFGoodrich decals with "VISE CRAWLER" which means nothing or to whatever extent it could mean something, nothing appropriate to the Blackfoot? ** BANGS HEAD ON DESK **
  18. I'm pretty sure that is/was @Crash Cramer
  19. Well - here in the US the Tamiya distributor for most of the vintage period was MRC. They used to do the shrinkwrapping, after putting their own part number stickers and other promotional stickers on the box, then shrinkwrap over it. It's pretty easy to identify their shrinkwrap... it's much less elastic than newly applied wrapping would tend to be. It feels closer to cellophane and tears easily. Have a look at this entry from my TC showroom to see some examples: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=122582&id=39840
  20. For me, that's all I collect now vintage kit wise. This thread and others are exactly why! Some people think it's a risk. I feel a lot more confident that the kit inside is complete and proper.
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