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Everything posted by beefmuffin

  1. I picked up an FF01 New Beetle a few years back but instead of restoring it as original I decided to run it and use a Nissan 350Z body... which I think is pretty sexy. The body I used is actually made by HPI but is a perfect fit for the chassis with some custom body mount holes drilled. Wheelbase is a good fit. Here is my showroom entry for it and have added some pics below. It's fast and a lot of fun!
  2. I've used MCI decals on several occasion on runners. I wouldn't use them on any shelfer / all vintage model... both for authenticity and for the (albeit minor) visible differences to genuine decals. I also wouldn't use re-re decals on a vintage build, so no surprise on the MCI. But for those I *have* used they've been pretty good. The one most egregious error I noticed - which has since been fixed! - is that they had one side of the lightning decal wrong on the Supershot. The originals were not symmetrical since the body is also asymmetrical at that spot, but the MCI decals were mirror images of the one side that has a small cut-out. I think I used them regardless on my Supershot runner, since there's no way I was going to use the Super Hotshot re-re ones. Overall, dealing with Nathaneal is very good and he should be willing to help out if you have a problem. I've even sent them some original decals they didn't have so they could create reproductions (for the Futaba FXT in particular). Nice guy and good products for the price... but no replacement for vintage original.
  3. Does anyone have a set of vintage Frog chassis parts (see pic) they'd sell? My shelfer is a little scuffed underneath. Thanks!
  4. I just listed my nice FF01 runner on Ebay - have a look! https://www.ebay.com/itm/333618868825
  5. @kentphil did you notice any problems with the ESC before this? Did it overheat?
  6. LOVE IT! It really looks very scale. Surprisingly, since the Hornet chassis isn't exactly true-to-life for a 1:1 chassis. Nice work as always buddy!
  7. I have a love-hate relationship with the TBLE-02s. Mostly hate. I despised them when they first started being the standard kit ESC... but I've since had them work fine for me in several runners. My favorite brushed Tamiya ESC is still the good old TEU-101BK. I have a BL setup with a TBLE-01 / TBLM-01 in a Boomerang which works well but I hate the tiny power switches that don't attach to the chassis properly. That's one thing the TBLE-02s has on other BL ESCs: a normal sized power switch. I picked up the optional cooling fan kit for it and am soon going to use it with a TBLM-02s motor on my runner Stadium Blitzer. Adding the cooling fan - as far as I can tell - makes the TBLE-02s more or less equivalent to the BL-only TBLE-03s, except with that nice big power switch. Hopefully the combo works well. I think controlling temp is key with this unit.
  8. MCI Racing's repro Blackfoot decals are good quality and accurate. They can also customize colors in you're wanting that. Worth a look.
  9. Hey @GTodd so you must have replaced the front 'shock mount' part from the Thundershot to the bigger one for the Terra Scorcher. Do you still happen to have the original one? I've been looking for just this part in decent shape to fix a broken one on my Thundershot. If it's intact and in decent condition I'd buy or trade for it, if you'd be game.
  10. Wow @mongoose1983 glad to see it coming along! I'm amazed you were able to get the body looking so clean, and the fix to the side tab looks great. You are a talented guy for sure. =)
  11. I saw your post about it on the main site, which luckily has more pics (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=135241&id=50165). Based on the pics it looks mostly like a vintage Super Shot to me. The re-re Super Hotshot has the metal access door in the upper chassis just like the re-re Hotshot, similar to what was added to the HS2 (the Super Shot predates the HS2). You can see that there is no recycling logo on the bumper (see pic circled where it would be), and the tires look cracked from age, which says vintage (although the flanged locknuts currently on the car are not original to the vintage hardware). HOWEVER - the body may be either from a Super Hotshot or a TBG repro. I say this because it looks very new, and I can say for sure that the decals are MCI Racing reproductions. They are clearly not Super Hotshot decals or it would say so on the wing, so are they genuine? Much of the time MCI do a good job of getting the details right, but they made one significant error with their Super Shot decals. Specifically there is a notch in the lightning graphic part on the right of the cockpit, to allow for a ridge in the body which is only on the right-hand side. In the genuine decals the left-hand lightning graphic has no notch (one is not needed). MCI must have overlooked this detail and copied the right-hand side for the left side also. See the pic where I circled the two spots. So my conclusion is it's a vintage Super Shot that has undergone some amount of replacement of parts with re-re or repro, which may be limited to just the body, decals and wheel locknuts or could be more extensive.
  12. Hey @netsmithUK looks like the main site is crashing with a 500 internal server error. Just a heads up.
  13. Hi all - I wanted to revive this thread because I recently came across a case where a GH2 re-release part had "Made in Japan" on it, just like vintage parts. I'll post pictures soon, but has anyone else come across this on any of the recent re-releases?
  14. Original Hornet (and Hotshot, Grasshopper 2, and any other white wheels) are definitely visibly different in color to the re-release ones. The difference is striking and you don't need them to be side by side to notice. The originals are more of a bone-white while the re-releases are a very bright white color. As far as I'm concerned, don't put re-release wheels on a vintage buggy unless it's purely a runner and you don't care that it's vintage. For example, if I ever bought a Hornet advertised as 'vintage' and it had re-release wheels on it I'd consider it to be a dishonest listing and feel ripped off. Pretty much all vintage Tamiya wheels differ in some respect to the re-release versions, and in many cases you can tell them apart by looking for "Made in Japan" somewhere on the inside surface of the wheels, which is only there on vintage parts; alternately if there is a material code (eg "ABS" or "PS" etc), a part number, or a copyright date, those are all signs that the wheel is not vintage. I made the mistake of using re-release wheels in a couple of my early restoration projects and later had to scrupulously replace them all with vintage. It was a waste of time and money not to just wait to get vintage parts from the start. At least if you care about what is vintage vs what is not.
  15. Just getting back to this thread now... I finally finished a new Lunchbox with a yellow color like I wanted. I used TS-34 Camel Yellow - so much better than the standard yellow.
  16. Hey guys - I'm finally painting/finishing my new vintage Clodbuster body. I was lucky enough to snag the real deal totally untouched years ago and have the bowtie/Chevy grill/tailgate and decals to finish it. I've already put on a coat of primer and one coat of Italian Red. It looks decent enough, but maybe the red is a little light/bright. My question is should I definitely do another coat or two before decals or go ahead with the one coat? I'm not the greatest painter and I noticed a little dust here and there already under the paint, so I don't want to make that progressively worse with each coat, or make some other kind of mistake and ruin it. Thoughts?
  17. Speaking of Parma - you might just want to consider doing a lexan beetle shell up as a Monster Beetle and swapping that on only for running. I do that with a few of my hard-bodied runners (Lunchbox, Midnight Pumpkin, BF3). The lexan beetle shells available are a much better match than the F150 Blackfoot analogues. In addition to being less prone to being destroyed they are also lighter and lower the C.O.G. which helps stability A LOT.
  18. Hi guys - it's been a while since I posted a build thread, and this isn't much of one, but I added a showroom entry showing some of the little oddities about the early/Mk1 Hornet kits. As most of you know even the vintage kits were produced over a number of years, with revisions to parts and instructions along the way. One of the most famous is that of the Mk1 Hotshot with the 3-hole (weak) bumper. Well the differences with the Mk1 Hornet are subtler but they are definitely noticeable when it comes time to do the MSC bits. Have a look! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134409&id=39840
  19. https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/zmjkwj/how-pebble-users-are-keeping-the-smartwatch-alive-3-years-after-it-supposedly-died How Pebble Users Are Keeping the Smartwatch Alive 3 Years After It Supposedly Died "As a longtime Pebble owner myself, I suspect a less tangible factor at work: No other smartwatches are as joyful to use. The software is filled with fun little flourishes—my kids always enjoy seeing the sneaking mouse animation that pops up when you enable "Quiet Time" for notifications—and if you're unsatisfied with the thousands of watch faces that people have created, you can easily make one yourself. Even the low-tech display contributes in some way to Pebble's geeky charm, and in its afterlife, wearing one almost seem like a badge of honor."
  20. Here's the ebay listing in case you guys are interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333374411480
  21. Just took pics to list it. Attaching a couple below. Will post link once listed.
  22. Will post a like here once it's listed up. Might do it tonight.
  23. Yep I had the exact same issue. Here are the leftover decals from a Saint Dragon I just finished with TBG body and MCI decals...
  24. You've had a few Pebbles? I use iPhones and I love my Pebbles. They've had always-on screens and 6-9 day battery life for 6 years. They are great smartwatches, for use as watches first and apps etc second - but that's what I want. You can get the top-of-the-line ones for under US$100 and have a collection for less than you'd pay for an Apple or Samsung, etc watch. Plus, you can develop your own apps and watchfaces easily, if you can't find what you want among the hundreds of apps and watchfaces already available. Here are some of my favorite nerdy watchfaces...
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