beefmuffin

boo!

ooh - what would delivery to the US (NJ) be for a black LB?

one caveat with IMAP is that if your mailbox on the server gets corrupted or lost you may lose anything you haven't archived. plus, since you have a limited storage quota you will need to continuously archive your mail locally and delete it from the server. which means, emails you sent a month or two ago (depending on how long you leave things on the server before archiving) will end up only existing on your local storage. so it's not as different from POP3 in that respect. i've personally always kept local pst files of work email and used POP3 with a deletion delay of a week or two so that mail can get downloaded to the pst in the various locations i need it. i do this because i trust myself to protect my email more than i trust someone else to do so. and to solve the sent email problem i bcc myself (automatically) on every sent email. you can configure rules to move them into a 'sent mail' folder when you are the sender. but i don't necessarily do all of that for my personal email accts.

if that MP kit sells for $400 i would be SHOCKED

wow, how toxic are the yellow and black screws? those are my favorites! i don't usually put them in my mouth, but don't we all from time to time? no? it's like licking 9-volt batteries for the great taste. or is that too molecularly gastronomic for you guys?

the first falcon roller i got, it smelled like the guy greased his gearbox with beef tallow. i swear, it stank like rancid meat. i decided not to use the gearbox parts and just bag them up and never open the bag again. i still have the parts, though, in the bag of course.

it's a shame b/c i actually think the hex halfshafts are cooler. in an intangible, vintage way. but they really do fall out under normal use. which is, just, incredibly frustrating.

yeah - to echo the above, you could build it - especially if you are a vintage enthusiast. like hotpizza said it'd go for about $200 on ebay. i got my original one for $150, but that was a bargain. but since the re-re will still cost you around $120-150, unless you want to put the money into something other than a midnight pumpkin, building it is probably the way to go. or, it might appreciate in value in 10 years or so.

well - i do have a set of re-re frog drive cups, bones, etc so i'll give it a try and report back!

anything to do with las vegas is automatically +3 on a 10 point sketchiness scale.

THE BALD MAN ROX!

BALD MAN - that would totally SUCK. actually, the extreme opposite. i'd totally trade you something for it. let me know and i'd toss out a few ideas!

hey OSR - so are you sure the frog dogbone setup is long enough so that they don't pop out even at the extremes of the suspension throw? i'm toying with switching to the re-re parts but i think i read somewhere that the dogbones were just a touch too short for the blackfoot. i'm not sure exactly why that would be given the similarity in the design, but i've also had enough experiences now with mixing original and re-re parts and finding small but problematic differences in the some dimensions... so it's not beyond the realm of possibility there is a small functional difference.

Dan - yes that's exactly the part! Lee also helped me out today by pointing me to a diagram of the Thorp Diff. i'll insert that diagram below in case it helps anyone else who stumbles onto this thread. So Dan - can I buy that part from you? I can't seem to find it for sale anywhere. I also need to see if I have all the bits that go in the middle to comprise the thrust bearing...

i just put a lemans 240s in my fox runner - super fast and looks great with the hot trick rear suspension arms! i had to work around some tatty old connections and add longer connector wires, so the soldering job was a little ... gloppy. but i wanted to make sure it wasn't going to shake loose.

well all these ideas are fine ones... but has anyone else ever dealt with this problem? or do you all just stack up all the empty boxes? or do you get rid of them?

hello cruel world. i was rebuilding the gearbox on my monster frog (aka kermit the hulk) and was putting in the monster beetle thorp ball diff i have. well i have no idea how it happened but i managed to lose a part. what's worse, i have no idea what the part is called to try to look for a replacement. the part in question - great! another piece just fell apart as i'm writing this - fits inside the longer half of the metal parts which reduce the diameter of the opening so as to fit the end of the drive cup (the one that connects to the half shaft/dogbone). the opening currently is hexagonal and it pretty perfectly fits around the outside of a wheel lock nut (7mm?). but the also hexagonal end of the cup is much smaller. the other part that fell apart seems to be a tiny bearing in the middle. a pic will make this easier to describe: click the pic to see a bigger pic. can anyone help??

<p>framing them is not a bad idea, but i don't have the wall space anywhere i'd choose to hang them. the garage has storage on all the walls, etc. and i've tried nesting them before but then i end up having no idea which ones i have or where they are in the nested set. it's almost like file compression... i don't know. i'm still pretty undecided on it.

hey TC peeps. i wanted to know if anyone has done what i'm considering, or if it would widely be considered idiotic and i should forget about it. but i really like keeping the old boxes from my vintage kits - those i've built, those that have come with restoration projects, and a couple i just bought the box. but now that i have a whole bunch of NIB kits the empty boxes are starting to hog a sizable amount of space in my garage. has anyone cut out the box top and kept them in an artists portfolio? just to have the vintage box art? or is that just a terrible idea. clearly the boxes come in handy if you ever sell a car... they seem to add considerably to the sale price. so i'd probably keep a few intact. but, for example, i have 3 empty blackfoot boxes now. i've been filling one up to make a 2nd NIB kit, but the other two are just taking up mucho space-o.

they're like tribbles - eventually you run out of room, then you run out of oxygen. well, not the oxygen part.

yeah, you definitely need those brass tubes - it's a very simple gear box and the tubes make up important components. as for the wheels turning in opposite directions, are you mostly only familiar with running SRB's? basically any gear differential will behave that way. a ball diff will be a little more subtle and as for the SRB's they don't have any differential at all. some of the on road cars are the same story - fixed axle, both rear wheels turn the same rate all the time. it can be ok for going straight ahead on an even surface or running on sand which gets out of the way of the wheels and acts almost like an external diff, but on uneven solid terrain a differential keeps the car more stable and driving in one direction rather than bucking around based on which wheel is touching where on the uneven surface. btw- don't use those pics as a gauge for how much grease to use in the gearbox. that's just one i inherited from a roller and it's a mess in there. you really only need enough to coat the gears very lightly. even erring on the side of too little is better than gunking it up. i learned that the hard way. these days i use tamiya cera grease which is very light, almost the consistency of hand moisturizer, and works well for most things. some people recommend using an even lighter diff oil, but that will need to be topped up more often and might leak. if the gear diff is bugging you you can look around for a thorp dirt burner ball diff set for the fox, but they're not cheap! i don't have one and don't see much need... will help any way i can... definitely have had my nose in some foxes recently.

ugh looks annoying! n00b friendly but getting in the way of doing things fluidly. will have to try it on a machine and see if it grows on me.

let us know what you think of the interface compared to win7

well - everyone has their own motivations, but i got back into building scratch PCs a couple years ago after only using RTR (see, R/C terminology works here!) models for years and it's been fantastic. many years ago i would routinely build my own, but then it just stopped making sense. but now there are so many "hop up" components available - graphics cards, CPU coolers, SSDs, funky ram, etc - that it's loads of fun to configure and make something to suit your own taste. the machine i'm on right now is based on an all anodized black aluminum Corsair Obsidian 800D case/chassis which has 5 5.25" bays and 6 3.5" HDD slots 4 of which are on RAID backplanes and accessible from the front. it's an i7 3.2GHz with 12GB of Corsair Dominator ram, a Corsair P256 SSD boot drive with two 2TB internal raid arrays and one 4TB external backup drive. it's just a fantastic machine and it runs like a dream. it may or may not be more cost efficient to go with the PS4, but you can get as much fun out of building your own machine as you get out of building your own R/C. hard to quantify that aspect...

you're in luck - i happen to have a grungy old fox gearbox sitting right next to my desk at the moment. here are some pics... let me know if you have any questions... i just got done working on some foxes. the axles are held in by c clips and between the c clip and the side of the gearbox is a bearing.