-=Jeff=-

I have plenty of Stainless 3mm bolts I purchased for assembling my 3D printer when I rebuilt it. I will either make towers out of aluminum I have or print them on my printer. I see the issues with the springs but will decide after driving. I found and purchased a Tamiya set of u-bolts. I am looking at shocks and will have to mock some things to try them. I do see the best way will be to change the tower for 99% of the shocks I see

I got the Hot Racing steering part, HW 1080 ESC and a slipper clutch. Finally started to put pieces together. I have decided all the stock hardware sucks.. I stripped threads on 2 of the U-bolts so I need to buy some.. meanwhile I have the chassis with all 3 leads installed , with determine what I want whenever I get to run it i will also note I don't care for the stock lower shock mounts and need a suggestion on shocks

Socket head will not work, they interfere with the big bearing. I will have the correct bolts on Monday. However I have now have the trans apart at least 6 times and the latest was to find where a Bearing goes.. I bought the DSM kit and it has 5x11x4mm (5pc) the instructions only show 4 bearings.. Where does the 5th one go? Also those Ball Bearings on the shifter slider are annoying. I have a slipper coming, but might wait to install it.. however , I am getting pretty good at R&Ring the trans now

Once I get these out, any reason I cannot use socket head screws instead of cap head?

Yeah even the quality Allen wrenches won't work on these, I will go go buy another, but even ones I really did not try the Allen key feels loose compared to others that are tight fitting, I already had one bear fall apart and had to extract the outer race.. I was expecting to happen I have had good luck so far these are alL metric wrenches right?

4 out of 6 bolts on the planetary gears are stripped, I am guessing best way to remove them is drill them.. Allen wrench just slips. Could other care screws were stripped. I will probably mod the trans for the Slipper assembly while it is apart

thanks for the tips.. The axles were easy and the bolts holding the axles together were also easy to remove.. Between working on this and converting my WT-01 to 4WS I have stuff to do

no pictures (forgot to take them) but I took both axles apart, swapped to the DSM Bearings and locked the rear axle. Next will be installing the bearings in the transmission.

order has now correctly been placed for Steering mod and 1080 ESC

just realized I should have ordered the 1080 not the 1060.. wonder if I can change it

Going to stick with a brushed motor myself. Might to a Tamiya torque tuned. Meanwhile I am working on 3D printing a couple parts for my WT-01. also would like to understand the best way to convert to 12mm hex, which have a chance for a complete p407 rear axle with the RC4WD axles and 12mm hex, but no front end parts. If I can source and print parts then the rear axle might be a good buy

I bought the DSM bearings. i have heard the bearings are not the greatest in the kit, so i want to swap them.

Just ordered the Steering kit from RCMart along with a Hobbywing 1060 ESC, since I have read good things about it. Now to decide on shocks.. Still waiting on Bearings from DSM, They are on an extended journey I guess

yogi-bear Not sure I can do the steering servo. the body I want to mount on this chassis has a mount that goes right near where the steering servo would be located to. I will need to wait and see. Originally I was going to use a Clodbuster body but I am thinking once the truck chassis is built I might do the RC4wd Blazer body something like this:

What stl file did you find for that? I just printed the 8mm wheel spacers for the front. But would like to print the 12mm hex adapters too