[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

I decided on the RC Lions shocks, since I know they fit ( Thanks @RichieRich). I have a upper mount modeled and will print it out and test it with the shocks when they get here. 

I have designed the mount to hold the upper shock one of 2 ways. I will see how it works out and adjust it from there

After seeing a few more Blazer bodies on the Bruiser chassis, that will be the ultimate way I go. It just 'fits' for me. 

Once the truck has servos and is working I will probably swap the tires. 

I have not bought servos as my in-laws insist on buying us gifts for Christmas. so I told them I needed 2 servos.. LOL

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Thanks for the eBay number.. those are nice.. once I figure out the right size shocks I might go that route or print something. the back is a bit tight between the tire and the frame. 

 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

2 hours ago, Saito2 said:

 This is probably in reference to a comment I made in the other thread. I actually said it looks way nicer than the standard set-up. In hindsight, I probably shouldn't have said anything because it might have come across as being critical which wasn't intended. I admitted (and still do) that 1:1 doesn't always translate the RC and that I overthink things. My apologies for any ill will I may have caused. Pay my ramblings no mind.

Yes, but you made some good points and the 1:1 versions don't have those.. I will probably forgo them for now and see how well it does

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Yeah I saw those comments.. what about nothing? Meaning are those tubes/rods really needed?

for shock towers if I don't find anything I will 3D print something which will allow more options I guess

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

No new real updates here.

I swapped the U-bolt for Tamiya ones

I attempted to fix the shocks but they still leak. 

I have not installed the torque bars? from the frame to the axle yet. I might go for the 130mm tubes RichieRich did.

Need to start looking for shocks

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

I have plenty of Stainless 3mm bolts I purchased for assembling my 3D printer when I rebuilt it. I will either make towers out of aluminum I have or print them on my printer. I see the issues with the springs but will decide after driving. I found and purchased a Tamiya  set of u-bolts.

I am looking at shocks and will have to mock some things to try them. I do see the best way will be to change the tower for 99% of the shocks I see

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

I got the Hot Racing steering part, HW 1080 ESC and a slipper clutch. Finally started to put pieces together. I have decided all the stock hardware sucks.. I stripped threads on 2 of the U-bolts so I need to buy some..  meanwhile I have the chassis with all 3 leads installed , with determine what I want whenever I get to run it

i will also note I don't care for the stock lower shock mounts and need a suggestion on shocks

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Socket head will not work, they interfere with the big bearing. I will have the correct bolts on Monday. However I have now have the trans apart at least 6 times and the latest was to find where a Bearing goes.. I bought the DSM kit and it has 5x11x4mm (5pc) the instructions only show 4 bearings.. Where does the 5th one go? 

Also those Ball Bearings on the shifter slider are annoying. I have a slipper coming, but might wait to install it.. however , I am getting pretty good at R&Ring the trans now

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Once I get these out, any reason I cannot use socket head screws instead of cap head?

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Yeah even the quality Allen wrenches won't work on these, I will go go buy another, but even ones I really did not try the Allen key feels loose compared to others that are tight fitting,

I already had one bear fall apart and had to extract the outer race.. I was expecting to happen I have had good luck so far

these are alL metric wrenches right?

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

4 out of 6 bolts on the planetary gears are stripped, I am guessing best way to remove them is drill them.. Allen wrench just slips. Could other care screws were stripped. I will probably mod the trans for the Slipper assembly while it is apart

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

thanks for the tips.. The axles were easy and the bolts holding the axles together were also easy to remove..  Between working on this and converting my WT-01 to 4WS I have stuff to do

 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

no pictures (forgot to take them) but I took both axles apart, swapped to the DSM Bearings and locked the rear axle. Next will be installing the bearings in the transmission. 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

order has now correctly been placed for Steering mod and 1080 ESC

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

just realized I should have ordered the 1080 not the 1060.. wonder if I can change it

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Going to stick with a brushed motor myself. Might to a Tamiya torque tuned. Meanwhile I am working on 3D printing a couple parts for my WT-01.

also would like to understand the best way to convert to 12mm hex, which have a chance for a complete p407 rear axle with the RC4WD axles and 12mm hex, but no front end parts. If I can source and print parts then the rear axle might be a good buy

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

I bought the DSM bearings. i have heard the bearings are not the greatest in the kit, so i want to swap them. 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

8 hours ago, RichieRich said:

If you can find the Hot Racing aluminum steering upgrade along with the metal gear high torque servo, it will tighten up the steering much more. It will not be as tight as moving the servo up front, but it will be much better than stock.

Just ordered the Steering kit from RCMart along with a Hobbywing 1060 ESC, since I have read good things about it. Now to decide on shocks.. 

Still waiting on Bearings from DSM, They are on an extended journey I guess

 

 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

yogi-bear

Not sure I can do the steering servo. the body I want to mount on this chassis has a mount that goes right near where the steering servo would be located to. I will need to wait and see.  Originally I was going to use a Clodbuster body but I am thinking once the truck chassis is built I might do the RC4wd Blazer body

something like this:

 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

6 hours ago, yogi-bear said:

I bought the rtr version of this, and like you wanted a Bruiser but can't justify the cost. The first upgrade I did was to move the steering servo to the very front. The standard setup on both the clone and the Bruiser is pretty rubbish and has a lot of slop. Its an easy mod too.

I upgraded to the steering same servo you've chosen too.

The only other mod I've done is to 3D print wheel adapters to convert to hexes.

And I bought a light wiring kit from bang good, yet to install.

What stl file did you find for that? I just printed the 8mm wheel spacers for the front. But would like to print the 12mm hex adapters too

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

2 minutes ago, Wetman said:

What are the bodies on these? are they abs or Lexan?

ABS

5 minutes ago, RichieRich said:

I would use a high torque metal servo. A standard servo is fine for shifting. The shocks are garbage. I initially thought I could make them work but they still leaked. They only have a single seal on the bottom cartridge and the floating seal on top does not have a bleed screw like the re-re Bruiser.

Thanks.. I will look for shocks.. I figured I would need to spend some $$ to make it right..  

Looking at the HobbyWing 1060 ESC.. seems most like it and it works 

I have a Futaba 3003 servo (not copy) might steal that from the WT-01 to use for shifting duties.. any links for servo savers? for the shifting servo? 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

Being I have a kit, I need the electronics.. Do I need the High torque metal servos or is Nylon fine? Yeah I think the shocks leaked, the shock bag looks that way. I will know when the springs are on to see how it sits..

. 

 

[So I purchased a HG P407A....]

I know I know, I have wanted  a Bruiser since i saw one as a kid in the 80's, Back then I biought a Clod Buster when it was brand new and just released.. I sold it in the 90's (never should have sold it). Fast forward to current. I have 3 WT-01s, a Proline VW Beetle, stock Dual hunter and a Clod Bodied one.. 

So when the opportunity came for me to get a clone of the Bruiser, I decided I was probably not going to spend the big money on one and this was the closest I would come to it. I have not started on the kit yet. I ordered a set of bearing for it and will start when they arrive. I will be using my Hacked Fly Sky GT3B for the truck. I do need some help with some items I need for it

- Suggestion on servos?

- Suggestion on ESC? 

- Grease for the gears when I pull the differentials and gearbox apart?

I will probably paint this truck in the Bruiser colors but ultimately I will buy the RC4WD Blazer body for it. 

Thanks

 

EDIT: Parts replaced so far

• Several of the hex Screws with Stainless pieces
• DSM Bearings
• Hot Racing Steering Knuckle
• 3D Printed Front Wheel Spacers
• RC Lions 80mm Shocks
• 3D printed Shock Towers
• Hobbywing 1080 ESC
• Tamiya Bruiser U-Bolts for Springs (with flanged Nylon Lock nuts)
• Rear Differential locked

 

[WT-01 Add rear steering]

found it.. 

 

Just need to get a few missing parts

[WT-01 Add rear steering]

I am thinking about adding rear steering to my WT-01..  While adding it would be straight-forward I do want to add options and curious how I would to that

Here is what I would like

-Rear steering as normal..

-Switch between, Normal, Crab or No steer in the rear from the remote

I have a Hacked Flysky GT3B so I have up to 8 channels if needed, just need a new Receiver

 

Thoughts?