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The Knight

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Everything posted by The Knight

  1. Long time I havn't write about new parts. I've changed a lot. Last year a replaced the rims, add a gearbox in front, replaced the brushless kit by two firebolt morots. And lot of little parts. Today, I make it perfect. Last parts I have plugged in. ^^ Started with this New parts are: fast change battery opener + carbon tubes, turnbuckles as steering rods. long screws in gearbox. Some days ago I changed the shocks (to hard) by cheap one. In red and blue. Looks similar to the body. Fits perfect: Final truck: Looks much better, more stability. I love this chassis!! I think about changing HPI tyres into Pro-Line Destroyer 2.2'', but I don't know, if they work better?!
  2. Seems to be longer as a WT-01. Could be 290mm or longer, Maybe 313mm?
  3. OMG! Tamiya is back? *clap* Want to see the first build threads.
  4. The easiest way, is the simplest way. Steel Crawler Drive shaft. Thread closed!
  5. Front an read? Same size/dimensions?
  6. Sry fot late answer.... I am ready with building my chassis and I got a little mistake. The joint shaft in front have a little buckling, so I can't install the steel drive shaft, it wouldn't spin. Is there a solution to fix it? I can't rebuild the front part. Ok, it is not a doomsday,if I wouldn't fix it. I also can drive as 2WD in rear, because this truck isn't a crawler or fast or something, it's more than a showcase model. Edit: mmmmh cut in the middle of the steel drive shaft and connecting the 2 parts with a CC01 joint shaft?
  7. Yes, I also would recommend better rims. Convert to 4WD, much better handling. Take a Quicrun WP860 ESC and 15T HPI Firebolt dual motors. Better shock-system, ball bearings and you'll have enough fun with this "old boy".
  8. have the hard type upgrade. I could use a sold alloy tube and cut of the end. but isn't there an easier option?
  9. I have replaced the chassis by a self made one. The Wheelbase is noch 10-12mm shorter. So the drive shaft is now too long. How can I made an alternative drive shaft?
  10. Pro-Line offers Clod 2.6'' wheels or brawler wheely with +17mm Offset. Have anyone tested these rims on a stock Wild Dagger, Blackfoot 3 or WR01 Chassis? I really want to know if this fits good. (and drive good?)
  11. Haha, sry, I've changed it into very good bad english. The fast changer isn't recommended vor my 2S Lipo. The cables are in same positions like the opener....
  12. Something new for you That's a real cfk carbon chassis! Absolutely perfect! I'm so excited about this frame! I'm very proud about it, because it's unique in world and a prototype! Manufacturing, passing accuracy and stability are very good. So it looks assembled: Toe-in in rear frim TL-01 chassis with 2° for improving directional stability: Some new tuning parts e. g. upper arms and inside self made brass gear tubes. They are 5-10g lighter than stock. The chassis is ~30g lighter than stock! Complete truck:
  13. ....I think I will not use the stampede arms. Because I must change so much extra parts on my truck. It's to expensive and not in my design. But I think, if some one have a stock chassis, he could use the parts to get a very wide and stable track. To help you, I measured it out and made a part list: Traxxas #3655X rear arms, 100mm RPM #80532 front arms, 91mm (the front MUST be ~10mm shorter than rear!) Steering arms 91-95mm, e. g. Team Associated #25569 Track rod rear, eye to eye 79mm or 59mm without rod ends; universal turnbuckle Track rod front, eye to eye 75mm or 55mm without rod ends; universal turnbuckle Dogbones 94mm; universal dogbones You'll get all parts on ebay.com or towerhobbies.com
  14. You need new dogbones, upper arms (turnbakles), steering arms. I will buy all these parts and will show it in my Bigfoot build-thread. But it needs some weeks of time, I always order it in chinese shops.
  15. I've got it! The stampede arms fits very good. The traxxas plastic is awesome! Light and very strong. The rear arms are 20mm longer than WT01 and have nearly same dimensions. The front is 83mm long. Thread solved! Traxxas #3631 front Traxxas #3655X rear
  16. @kontemax: Thanks but thats 5mm longer than stock WT01 arms. Not enough. Stock wt01 is 78mm I have ordered rear Stampede arms, they are 100mm long and should have same size like tamiya. I can take a photo of it, when I get the parts.
  17. I've got a good ideo from a friend today. I will buy some arms from Stampede VXL, thery are 100mm long and looks like they could fit. If I got some and tested it out, I will let you all know it.
  18. Great! Please measure following red lines. I hope they are longer than 95mm.
  19. I've got some Blazing Star suspension arms, but they have the same lenght like the WT01. I havn't found a tamiya car with longer arms. The are all ~95mm long. No luck on it. Anyone an idea or knows longer arrms than 95mm?
  20. Do you want a Carbon chassis for WT01? No it's available: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/carbon-chassis-cfk-fuer-tamiya-wild-dagger-twin-detonator-usw/481869692-249-3262
  21. Ah yes, I found it. 32 19T. Thx to you!
  22. Which pinion I need for TXT2? 32pitch 64? 0.6??
  23. I have bid a used Dagger on ebay. So I have solved the problem with a Dagger body. So I get a complete 4WD chassis for spare parts and a body. If the locked diff again fails, which diff locker I could use?
  24. Today I was on an offroad track. It' a heavy track, not easy to drive. So my Bigfoot crashes very often, but the chassis have not one damage! Great. But the thin body shell brakes on some points. The gear wheels inside the locked diff have rubbed on hot glue -> hot glue melt -> diff was opened again. O.ô Next try I have condensed screws inside and hot glue again. Much more than before! It's disappointing that no manufacterer produce a locked alloy diff. I really like the Sandshaker body, but the stickers are more thasn ugly and holes are pre-drilled. Look on photos, it could be, that body mounting holes from WT01 are too close to the sandshaker holes. Look ->
  25. Typically... Gute deutsche Qualität. ^^
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