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The Knight

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Posts posted by The Knight

  1. Long time I havn't  write about new parts. I've changed a lot.

    Last year a replaced the rims, add a gearbox in front, replaced the brushless kit by two firebolt morots. And lot of little parts.

     

    Today, I make it perfect. Last parts I have plugged in. ^^

    Started with this

    591b60779a60c_20170516_194553(Andere).thumb.jpg.06c40790dbb9ee44c08ab470c442188c.jpg

    New parts are: fast change battery opener + carbon tubes, turnbuckles as steering rods. long screws in gearbox. Some days ago I changed the shocks (to hard) by cheap one. In red and blue. Looks similar to the body. ;)

    591b607adba1e_20170516_195342(Andere).thumb.jpg.7eb986dcb555422b068ba93ea4fc1597.jpg

    591b607f00e3b_20170516_201155(Andere).thumb.jpg.c6f878977b4964356b88fb12a42de6ad.jpg

    591b6176039aa_20170516_202823(Andere).thumb.jpg.bee80283a0b19cd937d52d99c4e6e42f.jpg

    Fits perfect:

    591b61786f57b_20170516_205413(Andere).thumb.jpg.157d913518457d8117d323edd9cd266a.jpg

    Final truck:

    591b617b8c795_20170516_215124(Andere).thumb.jpg.6f9105b481a94e7abacafb819f4270db.jpg591b617f0ba49_20170516_215145(Andere).thumb.jpg.5b6aec69155d231f11b37e8eff10f7a2.jpg

    Looks much better, more stability. I love this chassis!!

     

    I think about changing HPI tyres into Pro-Line  Destroyer 2.2'', but I don't know, if they work better?!

     

     

    • Like 2
  2. On 8.11.2016 at 4:00 AM, djmcnz said:

    Yes, just cut your current one to length and file down the end that you cut to reshape the blade. Easy.

    Sry fot late answer.... I am ready with building my chassis and I got a little mistake.

    20170216_232428 (Andere).jpg

    The joint shaft in front have a little buckling, so I can't install the steel drive shaft, it wouldn't spin.

    Is there a solution to fix it? I can't rebuild the front part.

     

    Ok, it is not a doomsday,if I wouldn't fix it. I also can drive as 2WD in rear, because this truck isn't a crawler or fast or something, it's more than a showcase model. ;)


    Edit: mmmmh cut in the middle of the steel drive shaft and connecting the 2 parts with a CC01 joint shaft?

    tam_4135042_001.jpg

  3. Something new for you ;)

    20160702_145452Andere.jpg

    That's a real cfk carbon chassis! Absolutely perfect! I'm so excited about this frame!

    20160702_145417Andere.jpg

    20160702_145404Andere.jpg

    20160702_145756Andere.jpg

    20160702_145813Andere.jpg

    I'm very proud about it, because it's unique in world and a prototype!

    Manufacturing,  passing accuracy and stability are very good.
     

    So it looks assembled:

    20160707_092830Andere.jpg

    20160707_092814Andere.jpg

    Toe-in in rear frim TL-01 chassis with 2° for improving directional stability:

    20160707_092846Andere.jpg

    Some new tuning parts e. g. upper arms

    20160707_092922Andere.jpg

    20160707_092948Andere.jpg

    20160707_092858Andere.jpg

    and inside self made brass gear tubes. They are 5-10g lighter than stock.

    The chassis is ~30g lighter than stock!

    20160702_185927Andere.jpg

    Complete truck:

    20160707_093103Andere.jpg

    20160707_093053Andere.jpg

    20160707_093006Andere.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. ....I think I will not use the stampede arms. Because I must change so much extra parts on my truck. It's to expensive and not in my design.

    But I think, if some one have a stock chassis, he could use the parts to get a very wide and stable track.

     

    To help you, I measured it out and made a part list:

    Traxxas #3655X rear arms, 100mm

    RPM #80532 front arms, 91mm (the front MUST be ~10mm shorter than rear!)

    Steering arms 91-95mm, e. g. Team Associated #25569

    Track rod rear, eye to eye 79mm or 59mm without rod ends; universal turnbuckle

    Track rod front, eye to eye 75mm or 55mm without rod ends; universal turnbuckle

    Dogbones 94mm; universal dogbones

     

    You'll get all parts on ebay.com or towerhobbies.com B)

     

     

    rdunecmj.jpg

    p7hsif2u.jpg

  5. Today I was on an offroad track. It' a heavy track, not easy to drive. So my Bigfoot crashes very often, but the chassis have not one damage! Great.

    But the thin body shell brakes on some points.

    The gear wheels inside the locked diff have rubbed on hot glue -> hot glue melt -> diff was opened again. O.ô

    Next try I have condensed screws inside and hot glue again. Much more than before! It's disappointing that no manufacterer produce a locked alloy diff. :(

     

    1 hour ago, XV Pilot said:

    How about a Wild Dagger/Stadium Raider/Sand Shaker bodyshell? The stock decals don't do it any favours but the moulding shape is spot on. With the right paint and decals, it could really look the part, and it is a good tough moulding. Mine has lasted many crashes with no damage at all.

    I really like the Sandshaker body, but the stickers are more thasn ugly and holes are pre-drilled. Look on photos, it could be, that body mounting holes from WT01 are too close to the sandshaker holes.

    Look -> Tamiya-Sandshaker-Karosserie-unlackiert-

    20160507_200931.jpg

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