The Knight
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Posts posted by The Knight
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Naaaa...
Brake oil, clean the body and make the job again.
White before, than red and at last dark blue.
Max
Thats the way I already done.
If I am ready, I'll show you the result. I using decals to "face" the misstakes.
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Nice idea I think. ^^
But in the novel it wasn't mercedes or pajero, they drive with a Defender D90 through isla sorna
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Last 2 weeks I painted the body. Thats the worst paint job I ever made. Terrible!
The truck should looks like a replicant of Bigfoot #17 from Monster Jam.
I get this nice F150 toy truck, which is highly detailed and change it to a real Bigfoot body.
So it starts with a wrong choice of color. I want a dark blue color, but I get a baby blue!
Who the 5&3&(%43 uses such stupid caps???
Next desaster: I bought cheap white paint but I don't know at this moment that is incompatible with my normal paint producer.
I have painted one layer and next day the second one. The result was nearly perfect! The paint gets wrinkles over and over. I must repair it with sandpaper.
The cool two white flash stripes also gone damaged.
In some days I need to repair the breakage by using a very small brush.
NEVER buy cheap paint, guys!
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Little update today. I started priming body shell last days and get my first brushless kit: Hobbywing EZrun 9T. I see it in youtube videos in a blackfoot xtreme and the cameraman means, it's a good system for WT-01.
To install the pinion I'm using a tool from CC-01:
very useful tool!
But for test runs a good lipo is still missing.
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I wanted to start painting this weekend, but in germany is winter coming back, so I need to stop.
Last days I finished enlarging wheel wells.I searched many, many days to find a suitable body by 280mm wheelbase. The only I could find is the wild dagger body (but worldwide not available), every other lexan shell was toob big, too short, too small, too ugly, too unscale. So I use this toy monster truck, which I get cheap on ebay.
In some weeks there is a re-release of dagger body in sandshaker tt-02 truck. But it looks not scale as the toy truck it do.
final look with chassis:
I show you more pictures, when I start painting.
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Toward/Tower are good servos!
If you have servo arm crash again, try kimbrough. I recommend it.
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I already own a WR01 4WD. WT01 is cheaper, lighter and faster with 2WD and other handling.Why nort pop in a second gearbox and make it 4 wheel drive??
New truck, new ways.
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Fits the body shell to wild dagger wt-01 chassis? I think this tt02b body have drilling holes which fits not the dagger ones. Maybe/maybe not??
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I'm using a TowardPro servo with Kimbrough servo saver and Tamiya alloy servo mounts for twin detonator. Servo works fine and was very cheap. The kimbrough ss is small, it don't touch the chassis. Very stable.
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Last week I ordered my second WT-01 monster truck. I already have a Tamiya Blackfoot III full alloy conversion but now I want a fast brushless truck, so I buy a Bush Devil II kit.
An unboxing and tuning parts video:
First act was opening the gear box and changing the bearings. I used bearings without rubber, for softer running.
The diff was already filled with grease.
Next step was building the shocks.
Team C but labeld with Ansmann. 93mm shocks for rear and 85mm for front. They are very good finished, looks awesome. The sorings are very soft.
After that I build the rear axle and implement a wheel spacer, because my beadlock rims have only +6mm offset, but I need 10-11mm like the stock rims. I see in TT-01 community Super Blackfoot axles, they are 5-7mm longer. Perfect!
But there was a new problem: how to fill the space between hex and ball bearing. I tried this:
- rubber o-rings -> pressing to strong on the bearings and expensive
- washer -> too big
- special small rc washer -> too expensive
...think...think...think....I got it! Alloy tube from hardware store -> cheap, exactly 5mm inner width, unbreakable and easy to rebuild, if lost.
I changed every tapped screw by M3 screws and small tubs. So suspension is very soft and clean and more stable than stock screws. I found two alloy hex adapters, installed only on rear axle.
Building rear axle is same like front. C-Hubs I using are for TL-01 but fits also perfect on WT-01. Made of delrin and ball beared! The bearings are filled with rubber compared with bearings in gear box. The rubbers protect against dirt.
For front shocks I need to change the piston rod from 51mm to 41mm. Otherwise the shocks would be too long.
The chassis was very easy to build, only tapped screws. But for servo I have used alloy mounts from Tamiya with some spacers. Works good, but I hope the mounts don't broke again, like on my Blackfoot.
Toward Pro servo from asia, 15kg alloy gear. Kimbrough servo saver, stable and short, it don't touch the chassis.
No big deal, after that chassis looks like this:
Rims are made by gmade, 2.2'' beadlocks, looks awesome and mustn't be clued. The have nearly same size like stock but bit bigger and No 1 grip!
So the "final" chassis looks like this:
Next step brushless kit and searching for a nice looking body shell.
Bye for now!
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Tamiya offers better rear knuckles for TL-01/WT-01. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/53345-01m03-rear-upright-p-2719.html
It changes the directional stability to 2°.
Is this useful upgrade, experience with it? -
Should the same size like tl-01 cars. Or wait until the manual is online as pdf document
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Something new for the Amarok, look here:
http://www.bigsquidrc.com/tamiya-volkswagen-amarok-custom-lift/
It have the new WT-01N Chassis. I think it have the suspension arms from the TL-01, they are only 192mm long.
One shop in germany offers the truck for ~164 € at 3. june 2015.
I think dampers are "new" and front bumper is new. Can't see more improvements.
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How long could you use the standard alu pinion? After 2 years using sport tuned motors my one looks like first day. ^^
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I s there a source where I can get a carbon fibre chassis? full carbon I mean.
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This is the absolutely most inventive body shell I have ever seen on a Blackfoot. ...and I am a Jurassic park fanboy.
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Now I understand my issues I ever have with 2 servos and one ESC.
My Clod Buster custom build have always problems using 2 servos on one esc. I think thats the solution to use a RC-system which is made for two servos or MOA crawler. ****! ^^
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Could it be, that you have a crawler RC-system?
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@ XV Pilot: Please post a photo of your rear servo and esc and cables. I always have problems using two servos, two esc.
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Brilliant work Attila! This is probably most most upgraded wt01 I've seen. Love everything from the alloy chassis to those huge tyres. They really look the part.
I've found another upgrade. Are these something you've tried or would bother upgrading too?
http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54586-5x50mm-lightweight-gear-shaft-2pcs-p-8237.html
This is only for fast WT-01 interesting. I see this days before made of carbon for TL-01 gear. I don't know if gear shafts the same as WT-01. If yes I would use carbon.
There are also light kingpin screws...Less weight for challenge is ok, just for fun driving I don't think so.
Edit: I see it costs less 4 Euro...
mmmh cheap Edit #2: The TL-01 shafts are 5x30mm and 5x40mm don't fit.
Edit #3: I forgot to mention. Very good upgrade are alloy C-Hubs, very important! They use ball bearings, so you get a super soft tender steering. It feels like, the parts falling of. Other word: "Your servo needs 0N/kg to steer the wheels". This is a real tuning part. Knuckles are not important, they can be original plastic.
Delrin TL-01 http://tamico.de/GPM-Delrin-C-Hub-links-rechts-fuer-Tamiya-TL-01
Change white plastic bearings by ball bearings!
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@ Nitomor: only in germany:
you can try to write him an email, but i don't know if he would send it to USA.
BTW the alloy chassis is bit heavy, but 100% precise manufactered.
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Yes Clodi have 275mm Wheelbase and WT/WR 280mm.
But Clod body looks a bit too big. There's a stupid logic in my head, but a clod sheel must have balloons as tyres.
Do you ever have put a subaru brat on a WR01?
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At first some words about me. My real name is Attila (like th hun
) and I'm from germany. Years ago I searched for a new project, where I can do a lot with my hands. So I landed in the very very famous and big world of RC.Since I was a child I'm a Monster truck fan. So my first RC car was the Tamiya Blackfoot III XB Built. Because the optical aspect was the best in mid 2012 (in germany).
I think my thread is a good source for all WR-01 technic-lovers. Lot of nice tuning parts and some hints.
But enough about me, here is a photo of my truck:
I can't write a real build thread, iI started one in german but in 2012 and I try a looooooot of tuning and customizing; in a period of 2 years. I've learned a lot of handicrafts.
So I tell something about the chassis and electronics.
Out of the box:
... I've got some trouble:
- servo mounts broken
- servo horn broken
- tires bad grip
- shocks pointless...
I converted into a full alloy chassis, which produce a german in his workshop.
Everything is aluminum in 3mm thickness. Axles, chassis, hex, mounting parts, shock towers......
Some of you say: that's not good, so the plastic gear box would broken at first. But NEVER happens this until today, because the truck uses only Sport Tuned motors (on photo you see 23T cup machines, removed) from Tamiya and the are not fast enough
Aah yes, I converted into 4WD! Much better handling.
The shocks are from Boom Racing or Topcad or GPM. I always use parts from these asia producers. Cheap and good. The springs are bit to soft but looking so sweet
One word to my technics. I can't remember that I ever seen a WT/WR-01 truck, that use the outermost point for mounting shocks. All the strenght of shocks operates directly to the wheel. 100% of shock-strenght gets the wheel. This is absolutely best way to damp your truck, you'll get a super grip in curves. I youtube videos I see trucks, which burst in curves.
If you have a WT/WR-01 think about you dampers, you only need long screws for it
I'm using GPM shock towers, so shocks can have 105mm size, real monster truck look!
Rims are original, tyres are HPI Mud Thrasher. Grip is ok, but optic is brilliant, largest 2.2'' tyres I've found.
You see the outermost shock mounting points.
What's next? some little unspectacular parts like ball bearings, 106BK ESC, 2,4Gh... aah important. Dogbones are all OFNA with 79mm size, they cannot broken! My wheel axles are broken, OFNA dogbones looks like first day
In front I have GMP CVDs... 3x drives, than broken. Do not buy this, the little shaft inside is only aluminum, brokes easy. OFNA dogbones cannot broken! (and they are 2mm longer!)Steering shafts also changed into thick alloy. Servo saver is a Kimbrough one. Previous was a tamiya, not good, it's too "long". Kimbrough is smaller.
And very last the steel pinion gear is an 18T from Robinson Racing Parts.
Enough words, some pictures for you. If you have questions feel free to ask. The WR/WT-01 is my favourite RC chassis. I could talk hours about it.
Time to prepare a new one....
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Videos from my youtube channel:
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Nice job!
I am waiting for a guy who mounts a plastic subaru brat body on a wt/wr-01. So he made a current and real Mud Blaster II.
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My WR-01 (Carbon) Bigfoot Monster Truck (formerly Wild Dagger) Update 2017 on Page 2
in The Builds
Posted
So guys, I am finally ready!
I finished the body, repaired the color and set up decals. I must say, I love the body! It looks very similar to the real Bigfoot #17:
And this is the final Look of the WT-01 truck:
I really like it, I think I have done a good job.
Last but not least a little video of the Bigfoot. At the next months I try to make some running videos!