Nitomor

Fantastic VR! Haven't seen you around for ages, not that I've been about much, good to see you back here. cheers Nito

Createx sealer yes. I have black and white. You can use it for both hard and lexan. In fact, if I recall correctly my Hornet was actually painted in the black sealer!

HI Peter, I use Churchills 1k clear coat. I get it from ebay. I knock it up with a 20% mix of cellulose thinners. So 80% clear to 20% thinners. Clear coat http://www.churchill-paints.co.uk/churchill-paints/clearcoats/1k-rfu-clear-lacquer Cellulose Thinners http://www.churchill-paints.co.uk/churchill-paints/thinners-and-solvents/standard-cellulose-thinner There may be a better way, this is just what I use as I need to clear on the outside of the shell with hard bodies and then use the same stuff on the inside. I've had no reactions using this, i put it over the black or white createx sealer that I back the paint with on a lexan shell and it has been really durable, even on my basher Hornet which has had some smashes!

Other toys = 5 older bikes Car Tools and power tools Airbrushes Camera gear I've got a list as long as my arm of to do jobs on the bikes and a tonne of old car related stuff I need to get rid of so I can get some workshop space back!

New to me bike... I love these. Saw it for the first time in a mag back in ‘91/92 ish. This one is a last of the line ‘93 registered which came with the larger discs and Goldline Brembos. One of only 6 left in the UK according to ‘how many left?’ Website.

Whoops, Please ignore the multiple thread posts, good old Ipad and intermittent internet meant this posted like 5 times, sorry mods!!

Hello folks, At the in laws yesterday as he has a tonne of high end race RC’s to sell and came across my sister in laws old Golden Arrow...it was like being taken back in time, some of you will appreciate this... Broken bumper but even that is complete. An ally plate underneath would fix that properly!! Complete with ‘optional’ fast charger!! and what bitd was a pretty decent capacity... And just in case you were wondering, the car alone cost this, must have been around 1985?? Enjoy

Looks like it wants Freddie Kruger at the helm!

Looking good, a very nice spec. I like the call on the metal steering knuckles and C hubs. Mine are ok but my kids ones which take more impacts have come loose numerous times and they keep losing the screw and I've fitted new knuckles numerous times. Time for me to upgrade theirs to metal I think!! I'll be keeping plastic arms like you though to provide some impact absorption. The stock wheels have a very shallow offset for the hex mounting. I had to fit the Junfac extended hexes to mine which is running the Tamiya CR01 beadlocks. How are you finding the 93mm shocks? Cheers Nito

I saw just today an ad for the sportbrake funnily enough, looks nice, I didn't realise they were making one again. My father in law has an XF saloon, they drive very nicely indeed. I've had grandad gearboxes for a few years now, I wouldn't go back to manual for anything other than a track/rally car! They've come a long way.

^ Having other people to share and fuel a mid life crisis with . Could be worse, a friend of a drinking pal of a workmate, just left his partner of 18 years with whom they had three kids (but never married) disappeared for a week with 'work' said to london but actually went to the Ukraine (she clocked the abroad ring tone so he's rumbled anyway but then lied and said that work moved him abroad!!) to meet a woman he had met on the internet and returned a married man!! The partner and kids know nothing yet! Er, explain that one away! Should find out more next week! Maybe he should've just bought a Hornet or somehing!!

The Mountain Rider is a cracking kit. I still need to complete mine, must get back into it! Still decals, more clear and other bits to go. Even the Bruiser still needs some minor finishing off.

That's fantastic! Great idea, I wanted to fit Bruiser rims to something, great execution!

Congrats on your purchases. Opening them will be an exciting time!! The beauty of your new setup is that it opens the door to using a much wider choice of paints. I wouldn't decant Tamiya paints from cans, messy business. I find for regular non metallic/pearl/spark colours, ie to match a lot of Tamiya's standard colours, the Auto Air 'Wicked' range of colours are perfect (I painted my monster racer with this red and it matched the decals perfectly); http://createxcolors.com/wicked-airbrush-colors/wicked-colors/w001.html What shells/models will you be painting? From the above link you can see all the other Auto Air colours. They generally need thinning, I use Auto air's 4012 reducer. You're aiming for the consistency of skimmed milk, it's important that you get this right, all paints are different so not set measure but you'll get a feel for how it should be. The thinner the paint the lower the pressure to an extent. I have found that I'm spraying around the 20psi mark + or - 5psi depending on temp and paint viscosity.

I'm using the below and it is awesome but then it should be as it's dearer than the Power jet plus although it has been nicely reduced here; https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?cPath=400_403_2_41&products_id=20847 I scored mine in a black Friday sale from the same place but I think it was about the same amount as the current sale price. It's very quiet, has storage space, easy to hide away etc. Very neat to have in the home as it is all self contained. I would advise against buying one that can't support the brush which you're buying (Congrats on the TH by the way, I hope you're happy with it and please report back how you get on once you've got into it ). The Maxx Jet can support the larger G5 also, pity it can only just support the larger LPH50 and RG3 guns at low pressure only so it has its limits but was perfect for my setup. At 1.4cfm it is no more powerful than the Power jet plus spec comparisons here https://airbrushes.com/iwata_compressors.php#comparison but it does have a much larger tank size of 2.5 litres vs 480cc and it has 2 outlets and significantly quieter. With the 2.5L tank, quite often the compressor isn't running at all which is nice as you can spray virtually silently, then it kicks in and it's not that loud and tops up quickly. The smaller tank will have the compressor run much more of the time. I'm sorry I seem to keep leading you to the dear end of the spectrum, I can only comment on the gear I use and I've been delighted with it all, I don't mind paying the money as long as I am happy with the purchase even if it takes longer to save! I'm quite particular, I appreciate you could probably buy other products or brands for less money, I'll let others guide you on that as my experience is limited to the research I did and the products I bought and use. From a user rating though, it's 5 star all the way as you'd expect from the brand and at the price point. I'd rather buy the best I can afford and buy once.

Edit: ignore bad idea!

Thanks for the link Kingfisher, I have seen them, I meant an esc that does both brushed and brushless that looks like it's BL only. If Tamiya added lipo lvc to their esc's you'd have the option to upgrade to lipo and or brushless as well as running brushed, currently something that no other esc at that price range does. Add waterproof and it would be a winner. I'd much prefer Tamiya to provide that than all the other parts mentioned above. Now I've made the move to lipo, Tamiya esc's don't feature on my rigs anymore. A lipo comp and waterproof tble02 esc would be great!!

Oddly bearings doesn't bother me. I'm quite happy to buy seperately with metals shielded in the gbox and rubber shield on axles/wheels. Having stripped a neglected truck with metal shielded bearings apart from being disgusted with myself for the neglect, putting it away dirty meant they were really badly seized. It dawned on me that Tamiya have it right on entry level kits designed for kids and minimal maintenance. I've never had a bush fail and only bitd did I have plastic ones worn sufficiently to need replacing. Cleaning and regreasing is easy and they can sit on a shelf forever and not be an issue. They don't cause any running issues and although less efficient it's not like they melt (not with silver can at 7.2-7.4 volts anyway! My biggest gripe is the included esc. It's great that the new esc is brushless and brushed compatible, but the lack of lipo lvc option is very bothersome. Means I have to ditch the esc and the default and excellent 1060 hobbywing unfortunately does not run brushless which would really make it a winner. Cutting out shells in particular and less so graphics is also a pet hate. The former really delays me finishing kits. The kit screws don't bother me, with the Jis drivers they are fine, if not I'm happy to pay to upgrade, same with the pinions. I'd rather they didn't up prices to allow for upgrading these things. I do hate the modern throw the kit randomly in a box packaging which quite often sees decals/shells getting damaged by kit astics protruding into them. They used to present them really well, even after the blister pack days they had that nice divider in the box. Cheers Nito

Not when it's packing a 3S lipo. The Hornet flies with a lightweight lipo as the car weighs ridiculously little and the door stays shut. Even with a 2S.

Thanks @MadInventor for the info, makes sense.

My Silver cans were also new. I even just tried with a brand new Torque tuned at the weekend. It gives barely any more power than 2S. I saw your Wild one runs and that runs well on 3s. Thanks for the ESC rating, perhaps a silver can is pulling more than 60A with big wheels?!? The motor does get very hot! I'd like to buy a current tester and see. With the batteries, because it is 3 cells, does that mean that each cell can only deliver a max of 33amps on my battery above or am I correct in saying 90amps should be the theoretical max discharge (2.2x45c). Found this from their website which should answer my above query... Discharge rate (continuous): 45C (99 A) Should be well within spec unless it's the ESC limiting it, but then your wild one was running a 1060 wasn't it? Perhaps with the smaller wheels it was within the ratings. I'd be surprised if the 540 was drawing more than 60 amps but then judging by the heat it could well be. I'll try again on a brushless setup and see if I get a noticeable improvement. On my previous 3s battery I did about 3mph more on a BL set up but they were on these punier batteries...then again BL is much more efficient and with better wiring. My dual brushless 4x4x4 WT is only drawing 21amp average continous by comparison going on battery duration though I don't know what peak/burst would be. These were only 1.8 x 25c = 45a discharge rate. Cheers Nito

I like that, the battery is far better protected there. Maybe not from water mind as the tub normally catches it all but the metal plate will help in that respect. Will be interesting to see how you get on with that. I'm struggling to gain much more performance over 2s from my silver cans running 3s. Most of my car's are big wheelers ie the Monster Hornet and running the Quicrun 1060 ESC. I have two different 3s batteries and I really don't know if it is the battery capacity holding them back and the larger wheels are causing more of an amp drain than the battery can supply. On paper the batteries should be man enough. 99amp discharge? Could the motor be pulling more amps than that, or maybe the battery is over generously rated?!

That's a really good vid above. Dawg is spot on with what he says, I did have issues with rough surface until I reduced the paint sufficiently with a reducer (auto air) that keeps the paint from drying too quickly which helped a lot. Lexan is really easy to paint, hard shells are much harder because texture etc doesn't matter on lexan and clear coating is probably the hardest bit to master, again on lexan it's the underside to clear so finish is not important. Make sure you back a lexan shell with a dark or light primer depending on the colour you want. The createx sparklescent paints can be translucent and will give a very different shade depending on light or dark primer. The G5 would be a great choice too, especially if you're just doing shells. Make sure your compressor specs are up to whatever gun/brush you choose. TH2 looks interesting too, I see it has a slightly larger 0.6mm setup. Have fun whatever you go for, you won't go far wrong with Iwata's

I'm using Createx 'Auto Air' and 'Wicked' range of paints. http://www.createxcolors.com/ They're great on lexan because they are flexible so don't come off in impacts etc. It has been really durable on my Hornet basher. I spray some clear coat over the paint on the underside of the shell just to give some more protection to the paint against water, stones etc. Auto Air Sparkelescent paints Auto Air Wicked paints Finally, Alclad paints come out amazingly on Lexan for chrome/metal parts... http://www.alclad2-online.co.uk/

Yes, I discovered both those tips with trial and error thanks. The pure celly coat actually saved one of my projects. Even if one messes up you can often save it as the cellulose softens the underlying clear coat and they sort of absorb into eachother giving a fresh take. I even managed to crack some clear coat flexing a shell and it sort of shattered the finish, but a couple more costs and it melted it away and recoated like glass. I've had good success with the cellulose over water based auto air paints. I've not really tried it over many other brands. I also had a bad fail on my first shell and only went that went badly wrong but it was a Mad Bull test shell. Went too thick and as it off gassed it all bubbled through the coat and blistered. Looked terrible lol but all part of the learning curve!! Now I do a couple of three coats and let it cure for a week before going again!