Nitomor

I paid £90 for my NIB one bought one xmas ago (I also have a shelfer bought new). I’ve not seen any go for £250 myself. Have seen them sell on ebay in the £1xx. As it gets rarer values may well increase. Every now and then you may get someone prepared to pay a significant premium. I have to say, the little Jun Hornet is one of my favourite Tamiya’s, I personally wouldn’t pay much more than £100 for one but then I already have a couple. The XB ones are still available and some are reasonably priced still.

There’s one for £585 on ebay at the moment BIN!

I'd give £100 for it.

Case #5164802781 Tracking number: UD000660105CN As others, this allegedly took flight CZ303 on 28.01.18 of course never arrived. No further tracking update.

Watching with interest, nice one!

Some interesting reading here; https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/paypal-ebay-fraud-item-not-received-and-no-refund-please-help!/

I had same, told him the number was still the same and to please refund immediately as no one else an the forum had received theirs either after nearly 2 months.

FROM 广东广州收寄中心 LATEST EVENT Outbound Flight Departed 28 Jan 18 08:25 PM TO - IN TRANSIT

Mine were due 12th march (5 of them). 13th march opened case and mailed seller. No response and now have to wait until 21st March before I can do anything else! ps same flight no as everyone else. And this my alleged tracking number... UD000660105CN

That looks very cool and way better than the Lunchbox based Montero! Great idea.

Buyers feedback has plummeted to 93%. 700 odd positive feedback in last 12 months and 58 negative. 53 of those were in the month of Feb!!

Excellent tip that Mad Inventor. I didn't realise that part would fit that diff. Might experiment with my 4x4x4 WT01! It would also stop the WT01 4x4's from doing stoppies if fitted to the front! I look forward to all the different setup possibilities on the G6-01 lol!

Haha, ‘Trashboat’ Rigby! cool collecton evss, welcome to this side! regards Nito

What a cool running spot you have there! Congrats on finishing the build, looks a lot of fun!

With regards to the hop up wheels, I bought some gmade hubs for mine, had to modify them slightly to fit but they look great. Next time I would paint the inner piece of the rim black so that it looks like holes through the wheels which would make the screws stand out less.

Congratulations, Looking very good indeed I use these LED's...which I have running off a different channel to the main steering/throttle which is mirrored on the fancy Futaba 10J radio (I use a 6ch receiver) so effectively I can select when I want the LED's to light. IIRC the running lights are always on, but the headlights, brake lights and indicators I can select. I have a toggle switch which allows me to select the indicator manually, or it comes on automatically with steering. Same with throttle/brake and I can also separately flash the headlights and in the case of the Mountain Rider, the big light bar which is awesome. Although as you know, I'm in the same position you were in before you got re-inspired so yet to do final assembly! ------------------------------------------------------ (Here is some spiel copied from my Mountain Rider thread which may be useful to some as it's much cheaper and easier to setup than the Tamiya LED's....) Left kit came from Amazon, centre Hobbyking and the right from Modelsport. Now I know this is the same kit, in future I'll just buy from Modelsport, for £11.99 it does everything I want and is only a couple of quid dearer than elsewhere but with Modelsports superb backup and service. In order for the kit to work correctly with the Bruiser/Mountain rider, you need an extra pair of 3mm Led white and 3mm LED red, I got them for a couple of quid each from Modelsport made by Killer Bodies. -------------------------------------------------------- The place you chose to mount your led controller seems to me to be the best place for it, here was my attempt using straws for conduits on the mock up with the idea being to run styrene tubes ultimately and milliput them in although your installation looks mighty neat and I may emulate it as it would be a lot easier to fix if something went wrong! In some ways, I don't envy you, because what will you do now lol!!! It's very hard to top the Bruiser build. Well done on tackling the decals, its very rewarding to see the end result and that you've applied them so perfectly

Welcome to the forum, cool first post. Great truck, video, I love your crawler terrain and the dog too Your Kong is very similar to the direction I am taking, in particular the colour scheme. I wonder if they are similarly inspired? It's the reason I haven't done my shell yet as it won't be easy, essentially by plan was to emulate the M.A.S.K. Rhino. With the stripes painted on which is where it gets tricky. I have all the paint, just need the time and patience to commence. At least from yours I can see the colour suits. Tyre/wheel combo looks great also. What method did you use to lock your diffs?

My lovely well used one, bought back in the day, must have been around 94-97 ish?! It’s a cracking looking shell, I love Supras and this was the best of the bunch!

My first thought exactly, along with, I can see myself getting one of these just to do that!! Of the classic Colonial variety obviously.

^ mine has told me not to buy a Manta Ray Because she’s getting me one for Father’s day whoop whoop!

I had a Turbo Optima in '88 so naturally, if it comes I will have to buy one

Interesting video, I couldn’t listen to it from work. Thanks, hmmm.

Excellent, should be this websites new slogan lol!!! Tamiyaclub - "it's a better choice than crack" (although possibly just as damaging to your finances)

Le chat e sur la plage. Er, no.

My comments were relating to the front axle. When I said tip the rear of gearbox output upwards (I was referring to the output on the axle) I should have said 'front axle input upwards' it would have been clearer, either way from your drawing above we are on the same page. Surely they are just trying to match the front axle input angle to the gearbox propshaft thrust line to make as straight a line as possible for the propshaft universal joint? I hear what you are saying about caster, Mercedes usually run a load of positive caster on their cars which is great for self centering. I would have thought on an RC model, reducing the propshaft angles would be more beneficial. and under full axle compression...