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About frameskip

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  1. Looks like 9804748 per the TRF201XMW manual. See here: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-battery-post-42253/
  2. Tamiyablog is now reporting oil-filled dampers, so I'd guess really long ball ends like on the rear of the F201. This chassis is definitely on my buy list!
  3. Maybe Tamiya will give us something crazy like shaft-driven RWD
  4. Given the Formula-E tease, I'm hoping it has lay-down suspension on both ends to accommodate that sleek body. My F201 is getting jealous at the thought!
  5. I'm guessing you're already past this stage of your build, but a stock CR-01 wheel weighs ~150g between the wheel, two beadlocks, screws, and tyre/foam. The automotive wheels weights common here (made of iron) come in adhesive strips with alternating 15g and 5g weights. One complete loop of the stock CR-01 wheel takes 75g, making the total wheel weight 225g. A second layer can easily get you to 300g if desired. The amount of weight really depends on what you want to do with the rig -- if you're mostly trying to crawl, you'll want more than the 50g. However, if you're going to attempt some medium-speed bashing (it is a CR-01 after all!) 50g might be all you really want.
  6. Doesn't the Clod require zero-timing motors, or a reverse rotation motor for the rear axle if running any timing? I think with two Sport Tuned motors you'll get a slower rotating rear end.
  7. I would also second the XV-01 if you can make the budget work. When I got back into the hobby I also wanted a car that could do both on-road and drift. I picked up a TT-01R Type E, as opposed to the higher spec TB-03 I was also considering. I was never happy with the slop in the TT chassis and have never enjoyed the car. I can’t speak for the TT-02, but the XV-01 is fantastic.
  8. I believe most 540 motors use R2ZZ bearings, but I’d make sure to measure before you buy. I’ve been thinking about doing this with a CR-Tuned just for kicks, but haven’t got around to it... mostly as I’m unsure how to best bend out the metal tabs that secure the end bell.
  9. I’d make sure to check the tightness on the ball diffs as well. You won’t want them slipping and getting too hot or melting as the larger wheels will be placing more strain on the drivetrain.
  10. I'd love to have a room where I could put some hooks/pegs on the wall and pretend I have a little hobby shop that actually stocks Tamiya. Although I have so few spares that my shop would appear to have really low Tamiya stock. A little like most hobby shops I visit. Hmmm.
  11. If E1 is an “aluminium frame member”, then yes!
  12. These the ones you’re after? https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=161_68&product_id=358 Edit: I believe bearings are measured inner diameter by outer diameter by height.
  13. Whichever way you go, I would not recommend the DF-03 for racing. Along with the other caveats mentioned above, you may end up with some significant gearbox wear issues/costs depending on how much power you're running. The DF-03 is notorious for eating the soft alloy in the top shaft (both the stock part and the slipper), which is discussed in several threads on TC (for example: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49262-df-03-gearbox-failure/). Tamiya never issued a fix for this, and while there are some do-it-yourself solutions available, you'd still be setting yourself up with challenges out of the box.
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