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frameskip

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Everything posted by frameskip

  1. Looks like 9804748 per the TRF201XMW manual. See here: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-battery-post-42253/
  2. Tamiyablog is now reporting oil-filled dampers, so I'd guess really long ball ends like on the rear of the F201. This chassis is definitely on my buy list!
  3. Maybe Tamiya will give us something crazy like shaft-driven RWD
  4. Given the Formula-E tease, I'm hoping it has lay-down suspension on both ends to accommodate that sleek body. My F201 is getting jealous at the thought!
  5. I'm guessing you're already past this stage of your build, but a stock CR-01 wheel weighs ~150g between the wheel, two beadlocks, screws, and tyre/foam. The automotive wheels weights common here (made of iron) come in adhesive strips with alternating 15g and 5g weights. One complete loop of the stock CR-01 wheel takes 75g, making the total wheel weight 225g. A second layer can easily get you to 300g if desired. The amount of weight really depends on what you want to do with the rig -- if you're mostly trying to crawl, you'll want more than the 50g. However, if you're going to attempt some medium-speed bashing (it is a CR-01 after all!) 50g might be all you really want.
  6. Doesn't the Clod require zero-timing motors, or a reverse rotation motor for the rear axle if running any timing? I think with two Sport Tuned motors you'll get a slower rotating rear end.
  7. I would also second the XV-01 if you can make the budget work. When I got back into the hobby I also wanted a car that could do both on-road and drift. I picked up a TT-01R Type E, as opposed to the higher spec TB-03 I was also considering. I was never happy with the slop in the TT chassis and have never enjoyed the car. I can’t speak for the TT-02, but the XV-01 is fantastic.
  8. I believe most 540 motors use R2ZZ bearings, but I’d make sure to measure before you buy. I’ve been thinking about doing this with a CR-Tuned just for kicks, but haven’t got around to it... mostly as I’m unsure how to best bend out the metal tabs that secure the end bell.
  9. I’d make sure to check the tightness on the ball diffs as well. You won’t want them slipping and getting too hot or melting as the larger wheels will be placing more strain on the drivetrain.
  10. I'd love to have a room where I could put some hooks/pegs on the wall and pretend I have a little hobby shop that actually stocks Tamiya. Although I have so few spares that my shop would appear to have really low Tamiya stock. A little like most hobby shops I visit. Hmmm.
  11. If E1 is an “aluminium frame member”, then yes!
  12. These the ones you’re after? https://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=161_68&product_id=358 Edit: I believe bearings are measured inner diameter by outer diameter by height.
  13. Whichever way you go, I would not recommend the DF-03 for racing. Along with the other caveats mentioned above, you may end up with some significant gearbox wear issues/costs depending on how much power you're running. The DF-03 is notorious for eating the soft alloy in the top shaft (both the stock part and the slipper), which is discussed in several threads on TC (for example: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49262-df-03-gearbox-failure/). Tamiya never issued a fix for this, and while there are some do-it-yourself solutions available, you'd still be setting yourself up with challenges out of the box.
  14. Banzai still stocks the 19T version for ~$30: https://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-YM-D1SP and some versions are also sold in Japan on the Yokomo web site: https://shop.teamyokomo.com/shopbrand/ct76/ I picked up the 35T version a while ago (as it is cheap) to use in a crawler build. I don't have many miles on the motor, so can't say much more than "it works". While the brushes are replaceable, it is not really intended to be rebuildable as the end bell is locked in by metal tabs. I don't get the feeling these are particularly high end or desirable from a collector's standpoint.
  15. You're right! I loved that game and spent way too much time playing it on SNES!!
  16. The Levant also has metal gears, but is geared lower than the TB01 to accommodate the larger wheels. The first picture in this reply shows the difference in bevel gear size: Edit: you can see the Levant’s smaller gear with the crescent shaped hole as opposed to the splined hole on the TB01. Edit 2: I suppose it’s also worth mentioning that the Enzo version of the TB01 also used the larger gears, but in plastic with a crescent shaped hole. Yay consistency!!
  17. @Juggular I quite like the idea of the front wheels pawing away at the dirt for traction! And who can't appreciate the legacy of the 2CV?! If you end up reconsidering the XV01, rcMart has 58528 for $160 (where I got mine), although shipping might be a deal breaker...
  18. To answer the initial question, definitely run it! I never had a Hotshot growing up, but I had a single issue of Radio Control Car Action that featured the Hotshot II. I thought it was the coolest thing EVER. I didn't discover the re-release until 2011, but even then it was the sole reason for me getting back into the hobby. I've since picked up a few vintage Hotshots as well as that HSII I dreamed of as a child. If there's any love lost for the Hotshot, it definitely hasn't lost mine I think they're quite fun on loose dirt and small jumps, but then again I'm generally a "silver can" kind of guy
  19. OP also mentions "very unsmooth" surfaces, which makes me question if a 1/10 rally car is best for the need or a good playmate for his SCTs. I have a 2WD Slash that will fly over mixed terrain, but none of the rally-prepped cars I have (TL01, TB01, XV01) can keep up. There's also a pretty significant difference in scale, so I never run them together as a crash would clearly favor the SCT.
  20. No longer needed.
  21. I had a similar feeling, but for a slightly different reason -- the manual really put me off from the start. For me, the RC10 is all about having a somewhat confusing manual with blurry black and white photos. The rendered graphics in the re-release manual stole away any sense of nostalgia. I really appreciate that Tamiya has been consistent in their very technical line-art drawings over time. My other gripe with the Classic was just how poorly it came together. Sure, vintage RC10s take a bit of fettling, but mine was a case of parts so far out of tolerance they would never run smoothly. Unfortunately, this just reinforced the whole "made in China" feeling about it... Good luck with whichever way you choose to go.
  22. Tamico has had the Rock Socker on offer for €209.99 for a while now, and with DHL shipping this puts it around the £200 mark to the UK. Not sure about their US shipping rates, so this may or may not beat the rcMart price (USD to Euro conversion rate isn't too bad right now!). However, the Rock Socker is a bit of a "budget" CR-01, so it does not come with a full bearing set (will need some 1280s and 1050s), needs an ESC, and depending on your feelings on the Stadium Blitzer body, you may incur some costs there as well Like @87lc2 said, it is a capable truck in the right hands, but you will fight a little with the short wheelbase and high center of gravity. The cantilever suspension is cool, but a bit sloppy, and if you have not already seen it, @speedy_w_beans build thread is pretty epic has shows a couple of fixes: I personally find my SCX10 II more capable, but find it a little soulless compared to my CR-01. As they say, your mileage may vary
  23. I'm not an expert on these models, but to my knowledge the main technical difference between the 2011 and Black Special is that the latter came with the racing steering and torque splitter hop-up options. These are fairly costly together, so explain some of the difference in price. As for visual differences, the Black Special came with different decals, pink wheels, and a motor with a unique sticker. Versus the Avante, the Egress has a longer wheelbase as well as some tweaks to the suspension and drivetrain, which improved performance. The Hi-cap dampers on the 2013 version are quite nice, and certainly better than what is on the 2011 or Black Special. I have not driven an Egress, but would guess that it would still drive better than a hopped-up 2011. Given your nostalgia for the car, you certainly wouldn't go wrong with the 2011. Or perhaps you could think of the Egress as the next thing you might have built with your father if the opportunity had availed. As far as necessary hop-ups for the Avante, Yeah Racing does an alloy set of front and rear hubs that take out some fragility inherent in the kit-standard plastic parts. The racing steering set was re-released again fairly recently, so it would be nice to have as well if you can find it for reasonable money. From what I've read, opinions are split on the torque splitter set, as its impact depends on your driving style and conditions. I've rambled way more than intended, so hopefully one of the Avante experts will step in and correct me if I've strayed anywhere!
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