beetlebanger
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Everything posted by beetlebanger
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how do you mean.i dont under stand what your getting at
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hi every one .long time no emails . a little problem with a diff i just bought from another tc member.over a period of time the diff will loosen up to the point where there is no drive going to the wheels.if i tighten it up it seems to defeat the point of having a diff.it doesnt feel smooth but very gritty if you know what i mean.any ideas !
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now thats what im talking about.any particular can top ?
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WHAT LUBE SHOULD I USE.
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ok having got my scorcher up and running ive now fitted a hot mtr.it flys but im unable to put the mtr cover on the end.since its used for mud bogging the dirt is getting everywhere.now whats the best way to clean the mtr internally. wd40 ?
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have you got an email anddress for gpm nick ? quote: Originally posted by Javelin395quote: Originally posted by beetlebanger its the same mount then for the 01 and 02 id="quote">id="quote"> Yes it is the same mount. GPM also makes an aluminum mount that you use. Part number TA2002. These seems to sell for a little less than a true Tamiya mount. Cheers, Nick id="quote">id="quote">
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its the same mount then for the 01 and 02 quote: Originally posted by Bibbo Yes there is a alloy motor mount available for the TA02/02 chassis cars. It's discontinued now but sometimes they come up for sale on e-bay. They are in a bit of demand because as you say they are pretty much necessary because the standard one is useless. Therefore they can fetch quite serious money for what they are. Probably have to pay £20/£25 for a new one and about half for a used one. id="quote">id="quote">
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i think ive seen a metal mtr mount for the ta01 chassic.the plastic ones always break up when youve removed the mtr a few times.am i rite about this if so can anyone shed any light on where i can get one,price etc
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looks like the r32 gtr is coming out to play.whats the best surface to run on or is it anythin that smoothish.what mods can you recommend for the tao1 chassic to help me down this slippery slope ! quote: Originally posted by Jimboquote: Originally posted by TWINSET From what I remember, it's standard B&Q 2" pipe - your best bet is take a whell in your local DIY store and see what it fits! id="quote">id="quote"> Andy is right[] All Jez done though, is push the pipe on to the wheels and use some super glue[:0]. He didn't use any old tyres at all[xx(] id="quote">id="quote">
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did he have any sort of old tyre on the rim like the pictures show quote: Originally posted by TWINSET From what I remember, it's standard B&Q 2" pipe - your best bet is take a whell in your local DIY store and see what it fits! id="quote">id="quote">
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can you tell me what diametre pipe he used basically any info on how he made them quote: Originally posted by TWINSET http://www.rcdrift.com/ Jez, a mate of Jimbo made one, and let me have a play at Snet, well funny - you need to start steering about a half hour earlier than you would normally, but once you got that sussed it's a right crack id="quote">id="quote">
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tamita should have been in to this a long time ago. ive gota get one .have mad a few phone calls and got a price of £150.at that price you gota get one.time for a compertition at the next meet me thinks.who can do the maddest drift.whos game for that !and you can get nicked for ot from the boys in blue !!!!!
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ok i not sure which topic to put this in but has any one seen the new drift cars coming out buy yokomo.i think im gona have to get one.cant resist getting the back end out on my own car let a lone a r/c one.who else is up for it.i know its not tamiya but if there is a few who do get them then its a new comp to see whos the baddests[]
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yea is sound mate.thought i had a problem with it because i couldnt get my scorcher to do emergency starts.after a close look i found that its because ive put a naughty mtr in it the wheels were spinning on the tyres.[:I].think ive got it sorted now.cheers
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just got my new diff.thanks sonis 561.havent driven it yet.greased it all up and just fitted it.now the question is whats the best way to go about adjusting it.i still want to be able to corner the car tightly but then hang the back end out and donut the life out of it.is it best to tighten it up a bit and let it sort its self out or trial and error
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many thanks .
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ok i wana ball race my scorcher but what size do i need to do the whole job.are they 5mm+11mm
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well i had a one on one today with the concept range stomer what a car.christ if they dont build this one then there in big trouble or probably stupid.i would like to think that some one would make a lexan body of this monster 1/10 scale.this motor looks like it should have "666" in the number plate. god help us !
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had an hour spare tonite so i messed about with a few odds n sods lights i had lying around.i am impressed with the out comebut i will be using leds instead of the lite kit from tamiya.thanks for the help lads.
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nice one lads.now has anyone got some light bezels and lenses for sale.
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you mean like splice into the main battery power lead and take my feed from that.im wondering why it wont work from the reciever .[?]
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would it be easier to run them using a 9volt battery located in the reciever compartment and then run the wires through the hole that used to be for the aerial wire.i know ill have to drill the head lamp buckets of is there a similar or better option.as long as it looks close to original im happy
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having laid my mitts on a scorcher and souped it up a touch i now require some nite driving.has anyone fitted lights to there scorcher how and whats the best way to do it..ive fitted and esc to it so ive lost one servo,moved the reciever to the back of the radio box so the place where the reciever should be is free.ive got the tamiya light kit but when i plug it into the reciever it doesnt light up [?] i am also looking for some new or repro lights to sell.cheers wayne has any one got any pics of theres with the lights on aswell please
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put that tongue away girl ![]
