Jump to content

Collin

Members
  • Content Count

    1409
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1072 Excellent

1 Follower

About Collin

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Austria

Recent Profile Visitors

2646 profile views
  1. Just edit above, the steel discs are NOT easy to sand down. About the various MDC settings, I am wondering if I EVER would notice a big difference. I think the right tires and suspension setup will do muche more difference.
  2. The metal discs are very hard, you can not sand them down so easy. Yes, its the FRP discs you work on. I do just a qick sanding on the steel discs to clean them and see how flat they are. You are right with the preload. I think the drawing (small/medium/large) means how much of the nut is tightened on the shaft and how much thread is shown free. Butits still funny, how they offer you different settings.
  3. Exactly my thought about MCI decals, the coat is so much for the bin. I studied the manual where the clutch sheet comes from, no word about other shims delivered from Tamiya. But every M4 shim will do it. Maybe one of the former drivers know about. But if you ask me, its more then enough to re-arrange the clutch discs if necessary. About drivin difference between Dyna and Mid. The orignal Dyna runs really good as it is. The advantage of the Mid Motor is just the weight ballance. I am curious how different rear suspension mounts (3°/4° antisquat) will change the handeling.
  4. Sounds good already! Diff screams higher frequency in my opinion. But to be shure, you can really tighten the MDC to see which noise becomes lounder. You will not ruin the diff immediatly (even if some people say so). I have to admit, I tighten the diff a bit more after a short run and I am probably more on the tight side of life (then others). After a few runs on the track I could not spot any excessiv wear.
  5. On Dry-Clutches you have hard and soft discs. (C)arbon and (S)teel in our case. Depending on how you put them in (for example configuration B: C-S-C-C-S-S-C) you have different friction between the discs. Pretty clever : ) It has nothing to do with the preload, becaus you still use the same package of discs. Edit: But to be honest, I have to find out what they meant with small/mediulm/large. Maybe there where differnent aluminum spring discs which change preload indeed.
  6. Btw. got some very cool Top Secret Tamiya papers.... this is how they thought about using the MDC with different order of discs.
  7. And if you need fresh carbon discs, give me a shout, I still have your envelope here...
  8. Matthias, bevor you havend glued tires you should not do anything else around the drivetrain. Sand down the discs gently, just a few times up and down, clean it, dry it, mount it, run it. Twist it, bop it, turn it, ... and so on...
  9. Gras is the surface I avoid most. It kills everything, (more or less) in compare to other surfaces. @ruebiracer How did the clutch discs look like when you disassemble the MDC? If the fiber discs are glossy (after getting too hot) you need to sand them down. I would check all discs with 600 grid sandpaper (wet) for being flat. Are you shure you assembeled everything correct? One I pulled the whole MDC off the shaft and back on, thought I can place everything correctly without opening the clutch, no, it was not an one metal disc was not sitting nicely on the flattened part of the shaft. The MDC fades a bit when getting on temperature, its simply what it does. Also Its good to know the difference between diff screaming and MDC screaming. Its a different noise. Also for setting up the clutch (MDC & slipper), I stop the car in front of an obstacle (on the surface I want to set the clutch for) and give some gas. If tires dont turn, and motor is spinning, the clutch is too soft. Tighten the clutch nut, and go again. Just very short, dont burn the clutch. Once the clutch is transfering power to the wheels (car want to push the obstacle) you found the sweet spot to start working. Now its only a tiny bit loosening or tightening the nut to set it correctly, but you are most likely where you want to be. Does it help?
  10. So cool, found some replacement comms on aliexpress for 3-pole commutators. The look perfect! A drop of 2K-glue, resolder the wires and thats it. Now this blast the limitation on old racing motors away : )
  11. Sorry for asking but what is a "possibel sale"? If you are asking for an offer or cant you nail a price?
  12. Cooling is indeed a good point. Now the airscoop at the left side is really tiny. My LRP Indy 600 switched off after 10 minutes of full on, which is pretty much okay I think. No I have the GM V12 which is much more modern electronic and I think it will work even better.
  13. I was waiting so much for this photos, great that you finished the wing, finally. Also thanks for your comments posted in your showroom. Now from the distance, I think the whole conversion still keeps the spirit of the Dyna Storm. It feels like it was made by Tamiya. I would love to have used Tamiya style aluminum poles between the upper and chassis deck instead of the premade one for use on drones, but that details would have blowen up costs too much. But I have to admit, the rear of the orignal Dyna looks fantastic, the organic shape with the motor guard and the gear cover. The Mid Motor is a bit choped off, but no wonder, no motor there LOL.
  14. Maintainence is no work, thats the pleasure-time with your beauty after the run.
×
×
  • Create New...