
Collin
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Everything posted by Collin
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Decal Day : ) Just a quick plott and some decals which might fit. I am fine as it is now : )
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This kit was listed with 200€ first. I think the seller misunderstood the scale : ) 30€ incl. shipping was not my cheapest find so far but still fair for this little gimmick.
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Ya you all know my work from past years but now its going to be spectacular. I got bored sunday evening diging through local announces finding this little fella for a peanut. Only the shell was done so far but I took off all decals gently. They did not stick so good and I think I will cut new ones with my plotter and some vinyl foile. Next question, going brushless or not? Haha no, That thing is just a little gimmick between all the "big" ones. But still all finest Tamiya built quality, it was a joyfull built. More pics after the vinyl decals are cut : ) Have a good one guys.
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Get a 3mm titanium rod from ebay and let cut a thread on it. Steel will be unneccesary heavy. Also you can try 1mm steel wire and bend it, simular like used on airplanes. The Predator has a funny long steering rod as well. Btw. did you made a 3D scan of the cassis cup? Looks like you had a mesh converted to a solid.
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Machine reamer in h7 tolerance are the way to go. Milling cutters are way to sharp imho. Machine reamer are also self centering but now it comes. Through that chamfer which is doing the self centering, you have a little problem when using the reamer in blind holes. I have a second reamer of each of this sizes where I grinded off the chamfer tip almost. Now I can set the whole depth of the hole to the propper diameter. And yes, prints do have size tollerances even within the same printed patch. Depening where and how they are placed in the build-room of the printer, they can vary in one or all axes. Inner diameter is a typical measure where you can spot this tolerances best. Now you set your design to your newest print experience, two month later you do another patch of parts and swoosh, all bearing seats are loose. 3D Print is somehow still for prototyptes regarding this behaviour.
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Hey good to hear. It is a thin line between low play, printing tolerances and smooth running gearbox. It is just important to not overtighten the gearbox screws, pa12 is way more flexing then ABS and the gasket inbewenn is also soft. I definitly would have striped one of my buggies as well just to continue a ongoing project. I like this move!
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- tamiya dyna blaster
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Nice : ) I just thought maybe if you use flanged bearings as well in my gearbox, you do not need any shims for the more narrow diff. I am dropping some numbers from my growen excel sheet, maybe it helps. Saying the M-07 diff is 0,7mm wider then the TA06. Ratio Measurings of diffs Diff Gear idler counter gear module fdr diff gear outdrive end/end bearing seat end/end DS/DB/TR 56 28 28 0.5 2,00 29,0 54,0 18,7 TRF201x 52 27 20 48dp 2,60 29,0 49,0 18 DF-03 18 0.6 TA06 50/52 27 24 48dp 28,8 52,0 25,5 M-07 52 48dp 28,8 51,6 24,8 211X Runner 52 28 28 48dp 1,86 TA6 50Z 1,79 TA6 52Z 1,86
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- tamiya dyna blaster
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Still I am curious about the rules of T.Cup: Would the * mean: Aluquerlenker oder Anbauteile aus Metall... In my opinion it also means rear and front bulkhead. As with all rules, it is often the question how you read them. @ruebiracer Shall I send you printed nylon bulkhead and suspension blocks as well? Or you paint them black and stick a Tamiya pressing nut on them, looks original after hehe.
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- tamiya dyna blaster
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Looking forward to this built. Since I had remodeled nearly all Dyna and TR15 plastic parts it is just a question of printing them. But still if someone ask me about parts I point my finger to Pauls ORB @Origineelreclamebord repros, which have a certain own design which I really like and of course the work. Go for them or get my parts LOL
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- tamiya dyna blaster
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Easy : ) @all Didn't I read anything that 3D printed parts are not allowed at the Tamiya Cup at all? Just found the rules. Original chassis and lower suspension arms. All the rest up to the drivers.
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What is the date you need all things done? Just wondering because of the next patch of carbon parts I am going to mill.
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Yes there is much love for this cars but I am afraid since they are so expensive it is not the first choice for vintage racing.
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Well yes it is confusing. My thoughts where with the plastic bearing for the shelf queen.
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Just be shure you mount the inner spring seat BH4 other way around. The manual is wrong at this point.
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Which Tamiya of yours has the most mileage/driving time?
Collin replied to Smokescreen38's topic in General discussions
Yes this looks llike after 24h endurance : ) Mine is my oldes and most beloved in my collection, the TR-18T -
3D Printer and printing... PLEASE HELP! I'm SO late to the party!!
Collin replied to Carmine A's topic in TC Designs...
Great you are in. Modern printers have nothing to do with that stories from some years ago. You load the file, they print your part. At least this is how I understood the progress from last few years. I am still happy with my Prusa MK3 for prototyping and casual repairs but using industrial print services for the important stuff. Have fun mate! -
Already brougth them to my bookstore who will do the shipping on friday in Germany : )
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For the racing Blaster you definitly need to replace the D1/D2 suspension blocks and some other ABS bits and pieces. In which part of Banana Austria are you located?
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Hehe, reminds me a lot about my Astute find from some years ago. Simular price and condition.
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It was more like a question to Tamiya to put this four ballbearings and thats fine. Nevermind.
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Picked up my kit today. I have to mention, this is the VERY FIRST Tamiya kit I ever bought in my entire life : ) The first and only NIB kit ever bevor was the TR-15T which I got on my 12th birthday. Quiet funny somehow, I should reenact a photo with surpriced face with the kit in my hand just for later in a few years. One thing I mentioned at first whe I was looking at the box, 1150 gearings for drivetrain not included. Oh dear, why is this necessary ?!
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This pads are very easy to cut down with scissor. Btw Yokomo ones do fit as well and are told to be the "best" quality material.
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@ruebiracer I am.... confused : )))) Or, I was. The mount design already changed with th first re-release. So nothing new compared to the last available re-edition parts. Just checked old manuals and all clear now.
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Reading all this again carefully I am a very confused about this detail. It really does not have a benifit. Did you mentioned any other differences between Re and ReRe version beside the batt mount?
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@ruebiracerThanks for your investigation. Too bad the front mount is modified. It came so perfect for the 211X replica and now it has a different shape. Just cancelled my order of 12 trees but bought a SA kit instead as a good base for a TRF Astute project.