mynameisdannyowens

He's good!!

Though I don't do this myself some people do install the dampers this way to prevent any oil loss from leaky seals, makes perfect sense I suppose if you're not up for replacing or rebuilding the shocks

Great work!!! Looks like one fully sorted truck now

Very nice indeed I did chuckle at "probably one of my last additions" Several times now I've said the very same thing......!

I wonder how many of us can reminisce to a Christmas past and that moment you unwrapped your first ever Tamiya (Lunchbox for me in '88) I thought it'd never ever really get built....but it did and it took some right hammer and nearly thirty years later the bug still bites! Merry Christmas

If you go for the Thorp diff then you can pick up the alloy idle gear holder from Stormer Hobbies online I have both of these waiting to go into my Kingcab once I get time to restore it Be careful though!! The Thorp diff comes in either 32 or 48 pitch. To use it with the standard Tamiya King Cab gear set, I believe it's the 32 pitch one you need. As my NOS Thorp diff is probably thirty odd years old I'm trying to pluck up the courage to dismantle it to clean and re -grease but the instructions are pretty vague and I've not had much luck getting any advice on rebuilding it.

I'm planning on doing the same with some yellow parts so am interested in hearing a word from the wise too

www.iconicrc.com It's on here amigo Danny

Maybe the Blitzer steering rods would be required and a perfect fit? Seems logical. The ally tubing/spacer seems like it goes on to the wheel axle before you slide the wheel on to stop any wobble, as Falcon wheels and Blitzer wheels have a different offset

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=60863 and http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehicle-manuals/tamiya/tamiya-blitzer-beetle-manual.pdf These should help, not exactly a how-to guide but enough to give you some pointers and the faith it can be done! Looks like you already have the CRP metal chassis brace and bumper Compare that Blitzer manual to the Falcon one in the previous link and it should make a bit more sense - the Blitzer manual will also show you which screw bag(s) you'd need for the Blitzer front end conversion for the required nuts and bolts and screws and bits If you can build a Tamiya kit then you can do this mod!! It'll make the car a lot stronger and it'll stand up to a bit of a bashing from your lad this way - the Falcon R parts (uprights that the front shockers are fixed to) are very brittle and are the Falcon's other main weakness- this mod replaces them altogether - and you could fund it by selling your much sought after and pretty rare R parts.....purists wouldn't be happy but you'll get the car up and running again and make it a lot tougher for your lad to inevitably crash (!) at not much expense... Did you have the other two screws into the chassis from the far back end/skid plate part of the bumper? (the two empty holes in the bumper in your photo?) - this is where you could replace the exisitng (or not as the case may be!) self tapping screws with threaded nuts and bolts for a bit more strength - I can see at least one of the mounting points on the chassis is still intact from your photo? Good luck whatever you choose to do to fix it and keep asking for assistance - there's lots and lots WAY more knowledgable people on here than me and there is a 'search' function on the forum too - the answer is out there!! My bet is, if and when you fix it and breathe life back into your Falcon and see your lad loving it you'll get hooked and end up with a collection of cars and ebay wrecks to repair and a big old hole in your wallet like so many others on here!! Danny

I gave misinformation above by accident....sorry!! Whilst the Striker dog bones DO fit the Striker/FX10 chassis brace DOES NOT and I should have said I fitted a TeamCRP Falcon chassis brace Cheers!

Used a threaded nut and bolt combo to join the front bulkhead to the chassis instead of the kit supplied screws as my D parts were/are a bit worse for wear too, added the Team CRP Striker/FX10/Falcon metal chassis brace and the whole job lot is fairly solid now and much stronger than original

It was a while ago that I restored my Falcon, trying to remember a few things I used DT-02 Holiday Buggy drive cups and the Team CRP Striker dog bones to refresh and upgrade the drive train a little

This should help when you come to finding where those remaining bearings go.... http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/vehicle-manuals/tamiya/tamiya-falcon-manual.pdf

Hibernaculum is spot on

Well said that man! Here here

The rest of the bearings go in the gear box of you've both front wheels done Other than the chassis tub itself BearHawk/Blitzer parts are different but the entire front end can be made to fit the Falcon Like I say search this forum or Google to find the Guide. ...If I remember correctly it's the B and E parts from the Blitzer that you need, but do double check to be sure

CRP Striker dog bones also fit as they are the exact same thing just so you know Cheers and good luck

Team CRP do some decent Falcon dog bones for not too much money, you'll find them on ebay If and when you fit a new steering servo be sure to power it up prior to installing it so that it can automatically centre itself (sounds like removing and self centring the existing one may solve your problem too?) The uprights that the front shocks fix to are very brittle and very rare and hence very expensive so if these are broken you have three options: 1-Search for new parts and if you find them, pay a lot! 2-Find a solution to get it running by either using a rod to fix the two shock tops together (assuming at least one tower is still in tact) 3-Search tamiyaclub for the how-to guide on installing the BearHawk front end - whilst not keeping the car original it'd be your best option if your letting your lad drive (and crash) the car as it's much more robust and probably cheaper than replacement Falcon parts IF you can find them You could also look for a cheap trashed Falcon on ebay to split for parts? If it's not the shock towers but the front end of the chassis (Falcons other big weak point) then you're in luck really as the BearHawk and both Blitzers use the exact same chassis tub. As mentioned above the CRP chassis brace adds lots more strength and should prevent a new chassis tub failing again Good luck with your fix however you make it work!!

I love my Bush Devil Much under appreciated truck

Quick look at the photos says you also need the aluminum skid plate. It adds a lot of strength to the chassis. Good news is the re-re Frog one is a way better design and a direct fit

Wallets at the ready

Looks mint!

MattyHot! Nice to hear someone speak honest sense! More voltage and more rpm isn't always (or even often) better, the right motor matched to the right model is the way to go.

Nice collection you have there I'm pretty sure all my steel pinions are Robinson Racing 32 pitch (except Madcap and Kingcab which run 48 pitch pinions) Sport tuned, Dirt tuned and GT tuned are the recommended motors for your Tamiya ESC but plenty of people, myself included have had no problems running the much more powerful Superstock motors on this ESC whereas others have fried it apparently, so it's definitely a gamble.