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Grumpy pants

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Posts posted by Grumpy pants

  2. Posted

    34 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

     

    I don't own any Kyosho re-res, but I am pretty happy with what the Rampage comes with out of the box (aluminum threaded shocks, sway bars, aluminum motor mount, hex screws).

    Their Fazers feel a little cheap though, they're not far from a TT02D in terms of what you get, very plasticy with no adjustability, but at least it's nylon and hex screws.

    I’ve got a Beetle NIB waiting on me, be nice to have a couple more to sit alongside it when it eventually gets built.

    I’ve hovered over the BIN button for the Rampage more than once, alongside the Mad Van as well, but they are bit on the expensive side for me and hard ones to justify when I’ve got more than enough RC sitting idle in boxes 😂

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    27 minutes ago, skom25 said:

    Are you sure that you need to polish parts, if they are not rusty?

    Most of them have that black coating, which should not be removed I believe.

    I’m just going to polish any stainless steel or chrome parts that have traces of rust on the still.

    Shock rods, shock springs, those type of items. 

    If it’s not rusty or black coated I’ll leave it alone 👍

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    1 minute ago, Re-Bugged said:

    Went to the beach today, forgot my bucket & spade but not the Turbo Scorpion 😎 A spot I’ve been wanting to take it for a while now and it ran as faultless as ever.

    IMG_7155.jpeg

    IMG_7545.jpeg 

    IMG_7399.jpeg

    IMG_7573.jpeg

     

    A great looking buggy, I find myself admiring Kyosho more and more. 
     

    Fabulous photos, to me running an RC on a beach is one of the primary reasons to own them.  

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  8. Posted

    Ok so I feel like I’m in a good place now with this project, all parts have been thoroughly cleaned, even if they are just for the bin.

    Still some bits to work on, bearings stuck on drive cups, metal parts that will need to be polished.

    There will be no doubt some parts casualties on the way, I’ll do my best to keep this to a minimum and use spares I already have. 
     

    It’s been a lovely ‘T’ morning, but the real world beckons now 😂

    image.jpg

    • Like 2

  9. Posted

    52 minutes ago, skom25 said:

    To be honest, I have not ran my XV-01 yet. I am still waiting to paint body and solve Radio issues 😟

    Torque Tuned or Sport Tuned is safe choice, to have fun and do not think too much about maintenance. Stock Silver Can can be too slow.

    Are you aware that XV-01 requires really long cables and stock Silver Can has longer cables than other motors?

    XV-01 is the reason, why I learned to solder!

    Excellent, thank you 👍

  12. Posted

    7 minutes ago, skom25 said:

    I really still do not understand, how it is possible that it is so badly damaged.

    It really looks like fake Asian videos, where they found rusty motorcycle in forest and try to restore it. These videos are quite funny, because they remove "rust" even from plastic elements :D

    Just to be clear: I do not suspect that you want to be Forum star. I just do not have idea, how someone spend so much money, then throw it somewhere ( salt water?) and leave like a garbage. 

    I am not saint, because in anger I threw TT-02 on the ground few times, but at least I "recycled" around 80% of parts and cheaply can rebuild it.

    To me the XV looked to been well built 10 years ago, run once on the beach through sand and salt.

    I suspect the electrics failed and it was put away wet and sandy and then left for another day.

    When it came to me, all the electrics were dead and beyond that the damage is the metal parts, as expected all the plastics, shell, wheels and tyres are all in great order, just dirty and sandy.

    Hope that helps a bit. 

  14. Posted

    6 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

    Definitely skip the silver can. I fell asleep watching my Stadium Blitzer’s first run within 5 minutes. Promptly put a Sport Tuned in it that was much better. The ST didn’t like soft sand much though and would get very hot in no time.

    Grass can be power sapping as well, my gut would be Dirt Tuned.

    Also that pile of mulch in the back corner needs to be moved to the middle of the straight for a decent jump while your at it 😁

    Morning K,

    Good stuff, love the action shots of your SB. 
    My wife has plans on me moving that mulch today 😂

    Can you remember what you did when you built your shocks? 

  15. Posted

    8 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

    I've messed about with my shocks so much that this probably isn't very helpful, but I went for upgraded pistons and reckon it makes a significant difference. Enough that my Falcon (nee Blitzer Beetle) is in my top three cars to repeatedly drop on the table and marvel at its damping*.

    *which in turn is among the best RC activities, I'm sure you'd agree. 

    Great shout the upgraded pistons, this time around I’ll use the kit stuff as I have it ready to go.

    The mods and upgrades will follow later 😉

    • Like 1

  17. Posted

    10 hours ago, Twinfan said:

    In that area I'd be tempted to go Dirt Tuned and 15 tooth pinion  :)

     

    6 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

    Definitely skip the silver can. I fell asleep watching my Stadium Blitzer’s first run within 5 minutes. Promptly put a Sport Tuned in it that was much better. The ST didn’t like soft sand much though and would get very hot in no time.

    Grass can be power sapping as well, my gut would be Dirt Tuned.

    Also that pile of mulch in the back corner needs to be moved to the middle of the straight for a decent jump while your at it 😁

    Thank you Dirt Tuned it will be, I’ll use the 15T pinion. 

    • Like 2

  23. Posted

    3 hours ago, ad456 said:

    Could you set it on something that the shaft and pin would clear(a bit of wood with a slot in it) and gently tap it out with a small hammer or something similar?

     

    2 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

    Does it need to be separated?. In the past I have separated parts like this by dropping the long shaft end into an open vice set to the shaft width but with a 'fag paper' of slack , then drift out the shaft by tapping the short end of the shaft downwards.  If the shaft is resistant you can use a long socket or tube over the long shaft end and a insert into a vice horizontally to 'press' the shaft short end to get a start then drift the rest out 

    I’ll have a play around with it tomorrow and let you know how I get on 👍

     

    • Like 2
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