TGX Fan

Hi, I am rebuilding my Ford F150 TA02T and would love to know how to make the carbon shaft. Can someone point me to a link? Much thanks.

Much thanks for the information. Very useful. Thanks for the great link Speedy.

Hi, I posted this question on another site but was not able to get an answer so hopefully someone here may know. I recently just bought an Integy 8T motor just for fun. To break-in the motor, I used the distilled water method. The battery is a Tenergy 3800 Mah Nimh, and the ESC is the HPI SC-15. Since the motor came without cables, I soldered the same gauge (14ga) cables (using Deans connectors) as the ones on the battery. I started the break-in process at very low speed then after 30 secs increasing to about half-power. After about 20 secs at half-power, the motor and battery cables became hot so I stopped. The motor is at normal temp (probably due to it being in the water) I am guessing the 8T is drawing a lot of power thus causing the heat. This obviously is not a good combination. Do I need to go smaller gauge (bigger wires) cables for the motor and the battery? Or is the 3800 Mah battery just do not have enough capacity to run an 8T? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I want a new look for my tgx and a muscle car would be different. Since Tamiya does mot have a muscle car body in 1/10 or 1/8, I took a chance and bought an hpi charger body for their Savage/truck. The length fits but the width is too narrow in terms of tires. The width fits ok with the chassis. But i have problems finding vintage muscle car tires and wheels. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am also not sure if the charger body is accurate 1/8. I've looked a lot on the internet and have not been able to find 1/8 muscle car bodies. Will post a pic once i get home. Suggestions are most welcome. Thanks. Edit to add pics:

Nice work. Looks very clean. Guessing steering would be much more efficient. Nice work on the shocks also.

Thanks guys. Just a cautionary note, be very careful not to overtightened the transparent gear covers or the it will crack at the screw point. That happened to me. The plastic is very brittle. As soon as you feel some resistance, stop tightening.

Thanks TA. Will try that.

Finally resolved my issue. When i opened up the mixture control needle located in the throttle arm, it started right up. Now I just have to re-tune and am set to go. Thanks for everyone's inputs. Learned something new.

thanks for the compliment. For me the most time consuming task of painting the Scorcher is sanding away the rough edges and the mould marks on the fenders. I wished i had the patience to install lights.

Thanks. It's Testors Model Master "Fifties Aqua" #2942. Here's another shot of it before i painted the tire lettering.

>TA and Bromvw: Ok. I removed the carb and gave it a soaking in alcohol overnight. Re-installed on engine and still have the same problem. I then tried an experiment. With the carb installed, i removed the feed needle (per TA) and was able to pump the fuel to reach the carb. I then re-installed the needle, closed it, and then backed off 21/4 turns. Fuel would not flow. I backed off half-way and still no flow. It seems fuel won't flow if the needle is in. Fuel is new. I don't see any damages to the needle.

Well after complaining about the frustration of building a re-re (due to old technology), I took my Scorcher out for a test drive. Wow I was completely amazed how straight the car ran. I didn't even have to make any steering adjustments. I love this thing. In fact i love it so much I ended up giving my Scorcher a brother, bought another Scorcher. Of course, the second build was much easier since I learned from all my previous mistakes. Attached are a couple of pics.

Just testing Thanks Klausen

Thanks for the response Speedy. I have seen this thread before and unfortunately it didn't help me. I can't get the fuel to be pumped from the tank to the carb. If i disconnect the fuel line from the carb then i can pump and fuel will flow. Once connected to the carb, the fuel won't move an inch past the point where the line connects to the tank. It seems to be a pressure issue. I tried to blow into the line that connects the exhaust to the tank and it seems to be blocked somehow. I have disassembled the carb and cleaned it and even soaked it in alcohol. I have also reset the high/low needles to factory settings and no help. Maybe I just need a new carb.

Klausen, I have put links to Photobucket in the past but only the links appear in the post, not the actual pics like yours. Can you provide some details how you post your pics? thx.

I just completed rebuilding my TGX and ran into this problem. The gas tank is a brand new Tamiya 80cc tank. The engine is an OS CV .12. When I pumped the tank to prime the carb, the fuel only goes about an inch into the feeding fuel line and all sort of bubbles are generated in the tank. I checked and there are no leaks in the tank or the lines (new lines). The cap seals fine, I cleaned the fuel filter and even tried without the filter and still no flow. The engine will start up if i dump fuel directly into the carb but has no effect on fuel flow. Are the differences in the diameter of various fuel lines impact fuel flow? Thanks for any suggestions.

>SteveU: I am ambitious but not sufficiently talented enough to make that build. lol Completed my build and would like to share a few pics. During the installation of the rear cage, the brass screw to secure the antenna snapped off. I torqued it as the other screws and the screw was going in smoothly so I don't know what happened. Fortunately, the cage is still pretty solid. A friend can metal weld so I will ask him if it can be welded together. http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5240_1024_zpsa76d39c9.jpg.html http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5238_1024_zps8bea11a3.jpg.html http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5235_1024_zps3bb04041.jpg.html http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5225_1024_zpsbf49ae86.jpg.html http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5206_1024_zpsf70ea052.jpg.html http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/h45223/media/Tamiya%20Sand%20Scorcher/_MG_5197_1024_zpsf5f325fa.jpg.html

> Raman: Since I wasn't involved in RC back in the day, I forget the improvements in design and technology. Good to confirm the radio box. >Fishlord. Haha. So that's the way the SS works or did I not build something correctly?

I too am building the SS. I am used to building the more modern Tamiya on-roads (tgx, tg-10,, tao3, tto1e, df3ra,m05 etc) and thought this might be a fun off-road build. So far I have to admit it has not. I have just learned the true meaning of re-re. I went in the build with the pre-conceived notion of a typical smooth Tamiya project. I typically start my build by prepping the electronics by replacing Tamiya connectors with Dean connectors. Imagine my "expletive" when i arrived at the motor installation and had to unsolder the dean connector because the motor wires have to be separate to get it past the transparent gear cover. And speaking of gear covers, I managed to crack it by a little overtightening of the screw (my bad). I ended up buying 2 extra sets of gear covers just to cover my clumsiness. Next surprised was I had to order a couple of Nimh batteries because the standard stick won't fit. I am not at the stage where I am comfortable with Lipos yet. Oh, I forgot to mention I had to enlarge the hole where the SC wires goes through since the Dean connector is too big. BTW, is the box containing the electronics is supposed to fit completely flush with the chassis? Mine is not and rocks a little. I am afraid of stripping the screw in the two rubber contact points by overtightening. Lesson from gear cover. haha I also ordered the metal front bumper and metal rear cage from RC Channel and an extra body shell (shell only no front or windows-$25 from Ebay). My current issue is finding out why steering full left the wheel doesn't go as far as when steering full right. I did neutral the servo prior to installation. The SS has been the most challenging build i experience. My props to all you vintage lovers out there. I think I will stay with the modern stuff. I can't wait to run the SS to see, hopefully it will be a lot of fun. PS. I like the steering fix shown in this thread. Nice job.

Thanks guys. >Finman, Haha, I should have taken your warning more seriously. Getting ready to pluck down for the rear cage, front bumper, and set of shocks. Before I do, I did not see any aluminum wheels for the Scorcher as shown in their pics. Did i miss something? Also due to horror stories on youtube, I am not yet comfortable using Lipos so am opting to stay with Nimhs. I have looked at a number of sites but did not any Nimhs what would fit? Any suggestions?

I am in the process of building my new 2010 SS and inadvertently put too much pressure on the bottom part of the plastic cage where it attaches to the metal cage frame. As a result, the bottom of the plastic part where the screw goes in to attach to the metal frame broke off. I ordered a replacement from Ebay. However, I noticed there was a complete metal cage with metal arms from Taiwan for $130 including shipping. Sounds like a lot to me but wonder if anyone here has any experience with this upgrade. Would you think this is worth spending money on? and if so, does it go on without needs for modding? Thanks.

Well, I decided to let my friend's eight year old girl try my Hummer. She was not out of control with it so I decided to build her an OOB MiniCooper with the standard 540 motor. She loved it, especially the color. The color may not come across well but it's Tamiya's fluorescent pink. Personally, I find fluorescent colors very hard to paint evenly. I put in three coats and then backed it with white. Some spots especially the window frames did not get even coverage. Thanks to all for your inputs.

Thanks for all the input guys. I have some thinking to do and will post pics of my build.

I tend to mostly run nitro/electric on-roads. Can you replace the 540 with a 380 on any models or only on certain models? I like the idea of a 380. Ideally I would like for her to be able to run both on and off-road. Although I don't care much for the look of a buggy, it might be more stable than non-buggy models.

Thanks for the input guys. I will think about the Grasshopper and maybe keep the mini cooper for myself. Also, I have a Hummer which is another option.