Crash Cramer

I have a used, grey primer Super Hornet body, Let me know if you want pix and then we can go from there.

Don't forget, when your daddy God sings..... Dance.

Well, I guess I better throw my two cents worth in here. I can't address all your questions, but others have done a great job of it already. I seem to recall back in the day that my diff wasn't as tight upon first assembly, but I got my car used. I did clean it up and began using the same silicone grease for the diff to "lock it up" a bit. That grease is also easily found in the auto shops labeled as "bulb grease" for installing all the turn bulbs etc on your real cars. If you want to see what Moly grease does to old plastic under the correct conditions(not run EVER and stored) go to my showroom and see why I am fuming mad!!! I think the Tamiya Ceramic grease would be a great substitute, but find that the silicone grease works just as well with metal or plastic gears.It wasn't long then that I also found a Thorp for the rear and it was really tight when dialed just right for racing. The bump steer to me was always the funnest part about indoor oval racing. The wheels always did seem to wobble a bit. Lastly on the New build/run. I am building a shelf queen and a runner or two. I don't think I will be wealthy enough to own a real NIB for some time of anything older than 10 years ago. I could be patient enough to see if Tamiya's retro trend will satisfy my thirst and hunger for a classic NIB that I can afford. It would be ashame if the values of those rare parts(that crack easy) goes down,(not),but it would be very cool if Tamiya actually is rereleasing these New Old cars with better up-to-date plastic resins that take the torture we all give them.

Do you only need one or both????

Hello all. I have some need of help here. I have to move this month and I am losing my "Hobby room", but gaining a garage, YEA. I don't want my cars to melt, but my wife won't let me have the "toys" all over the house. I live in Houston where humidity is high most days and the temps this week were over 105 degrees on average. I need to know if you all have any experience in just how much heat these old cars plastics can take. I am most worried about my Fox, HotShots, Monster Beetle and the metal mix SuperChamp. If you have any helpful hints, let me know. I bought some thermometers to help monitor the temp out in the garage and won't move them into there until I think it is okay. I have some attic space, but that too will be hot and little ventilation as well. Thanks in advance for the advice. Chris

Well, All I can say is that all the HotShots in San Antonio were with white wheels. Let us take into effect that David(vtec) built all those lovely cars in FLORIDA. If I were in Houston at the time, I might have seen the cars with Gold wheels to as the port cities would definately get more kits. I gotta tell you that finding a Tamiya dealer in San Antonio with any kits or spare parts was a bit like finding hen's teeth in the mid 80's. I am glad to have ebay and the TC club to help out with all the parts I need now.

Double check this with AIREXTREME, but I bought some new wheels from the BajaChamp era and they had even yellowed. He told me to soak them in BLEACH, yes good old Clorox. I will admit, they aren't white, but they aren't as yellow as when I started. I plan on soaking them again, just have to unpack them.

Please have a look at the latest photo I have put into my showroom on parts breakage. I hope it helps you in your search for sufficient spares to have around. If it does anything, I hope it helps you to know where to search for damage after running the cars. Here is a link to that post: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...=33121&sid=2640

You lucky dog on that Manta Ray shaft score, how about letting us all know where to find that buried treasure.

Needed to jump in here to clear something up that I noticed. I bought KBF parts thinking it would be easy to swap onto my Super BF, wrong. The KBF gearbox is different in shape and although the shock towers are close in shape and could work, it would require a total of 4 holes to mount the body. I decided to give up and cast the parts to the side for now. I agree that the KBF would have a better front suspension than the Super BF and BD, but transplanting those parts on would require those parts trees from the KBF and then patience as you tore the whole front end apart. The Super BF was my first foray into this chassis and it went together okay except for the front end took some time, then I started on my MB build. I am in Day 3 of that build and it really requires some patience to get the front end put together correctly. The Super BF and BD are twins aside from the obvious(lexan body, chassis colour) so keeping an eye on those parts on the bay should help get spares should you need them. I have stocked up on some as usual. I really should buy a runner body so I can enjoy this model more.

ARRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGG, MY Eyes. Forget the 56K warning, you need a SUNGLASSES warning. I am just glad you didn't take that last photo out in full sun or we would all be blinded by the bling. This is definately one of a kind and you should certainly be proud of it.

you have mail mate

I have a 29 MHz receiver from an ebay win. I don't have a transmitter and don't plan on buying one. Which countries are legal to run this frequency??? I know the US is 27 and 75 MHz for ground usage. Thanks for your input.

I have a 29 MHz AM reciever here, brand is Sanwa and part number appears to be SRC-2298RS with newer looking "female" (late 80's to present) plugs for the servos. I don't have a use for it and can't test it since I don't have a 29 MHz transmitter. I would like $12 USD for it plus postage as I beleive it will work. I didn't mention that it has a crystal in it and it looks like it is channel 2/red @ 29.785. I am looking for ANY 27 or 75 MHz reciever or a crystal SET for either aforementioned frequency. THanks for your replies and please email me at "chrisubooth@yahoo.com" when getting back with me. Regards,

Hello all. I have just picked up a Super Hornet. I could use your help to piece it together the rest of the way. I could use wheels and tires and a manual. I don't really know what else is missing other than the rear gearbox(I think) and I know the front bumper is cracked badly. All offers of used spares wanted and thank you in advance. I have a little to trade, but it looks mostly like Midnight Pumpkin spares and not much of them. Cheers.

I will have a look around, it is the same part in the HotShot too. I don't know if I will have a new or used one. I will let you know what I find.

I must say, I just picked a runner up. I think I could use the C parts since it looks like the only way to get the wheel adaptors. Do you have this car?? I could use some help piecing it back together. Let me know and email me at "chrisubooth@yahoo.com" Thanks crash cramer

I am sharing some opion here too. IMHO the runner chassis with its scuffs and slightly damaged screws only suits itself to be a basher and not much of a shelf queen. The wheels and body aside(of which, if correct would carry that price tag), the chassis and its shocks would be fun to drive, but only if you had steel C parts Hubs as they seem to be a fragile as eggs. I have spent about 1 and a half times your asking price for TWO donor parts cars and some fresh parts that I luckily found and won on ebay. I would be the first to jump on this car if it were in better condition, but it isn't much of an original as much as a hopped up MadCap. I intend on doing much of the same trasformation with one of my donor chassis as soon as time permits and I am sure it won't cost me a third of what you are looking for. In a collector's world, you are selling a Hot Rod MadCap and since I have owned one since they came out, I know that they are often looked down upon as "toys". Don't get me wrong either, but letting the bidding public, DUTIFULLY educated, determine the going price on this inevitable "project Astute". Regards

Which one do you need??? I think I have a spare one in each size, 70T and 77T

Hey Adam, You might want to specify your frequency as other countries have different allowable frequencies.

Hello, I need to get my hands on a scan of the Stadium THUNDER manual. It is not yet in the TC site's archive. I downloaded the Stadium Blitzer manual, but have found a number of screws are different. I of course assumed they would be identical, so I tore the whole thing apart. I hope someone can send me the parts pages in the back of the manual so I can compare the screws I have with the proper screws that are to be used to assemble the car. I know there might be some work on this request, but thought I would ask. I need someone to look at the TC's Stadium Blitzer build pages and then compare them with the Stadium Thunder's pages and see if they can scan and send me the different pages. It may be easier if you scan the whole book and then email me the pics @ cub_71@hotmail.com Thanks in advance as I need to get this build going. I am building the chassis to put under a Toyota FJ40 body for my best man as a present. THanks and send help soon.

I have a boatload of shock bodies(CVA style) if you have the guts(innards) I may have the shock body you need. can you email me @ "cub_71@hotmail.com" and let me know the length of the body and the length of the shock piston rod and I might have that in a spares box around here somewhere.

Well I didn't look up where everyone lives, but I can tell you all that at last attempt, Tower Hobbies had the Manta Ray uprights for around $4 a pair. I could only suggest to look it up for yourselves. I do beleive they will work in place of the original ones on BOTH HotShots, just won't look original, but who cares when you are having fun driving it.

Thanks Andy, Anybody want to buy them and a few other misc Clod parts from my Trunk sale???

I have a part that I cannot find info on. Does anyone know what part number Y8901 goes to??? It is a simple bag of metal parts. There are three pieces of metal in the bag, two small rectangle pieces with two screw holes each and then a larger(1"X3")rectangle piece with four screw holes in it. Thanks for the help, I would post a photo here, but don't remember how.