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About junkmunki

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  • Birthday 12/15/1972

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    Somewhere in my own imagination

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  1. By the way, flat black is XF-1 in the small pots. J
  2. I have three Countach's and my intention is to have the competition special and non competition in box art colours, and i am currently restoring one to Walter Wolfe colours. The real car is Bugatti blue, but there is no exact colour match in model paint. I tried the TS-15, and found it too dark, so i oversprayed it with TS-10 french blue which is the same as the Sand Scorcher colour, and with the dark blue as a backer, it looks a lot closer to the original. While it is still a bit lighter than Bugatti blue, i quite like it, so i might leave it as is and carry on with the black wheel arches etc. J
  3. As a collector, i have knowingly paid over the odds to get the item or model that i want, but on the flip side, i have also done some great deals where i have got the item or model for a really good price, so it evens itself out in the end. I think if you are buying to make money then it could be a problem, but if like me you do it for the love of it, you will pay whatever you feel it takes to get it in your collection. J
  4. That body looks very much like a Nissan Sylvia...
  5. I used to love getting the latest Radio Race car, or RC car Action magazines. I couldn't wait to read the reviews of the latest models I could never get, and read about rc action in faraway places I would never visit. I've got a fair few vintage rc magazines, and when I look at them now, everything seems a lot simpler back then. J
  6. I would probably put them in something like a petrol bath the break down the gunk, then wash it through with parts cleaner. There's also no need to bath it in oil, you only need to inject a small amount oil into the bearings as you reassemble the engine, the nitro fuel has caster oil in it which lubricates as it runs. My worry, is that if you put it in the oven, being a thin casting, it will warp out of shape. J
  7. Nice progress. That is some pretty grim snot you have in the bearings...😬 The carb will free up if left to soak in some cleaning solution. As far as drilling the screw out goes, the grub screw might not go all the way through the throat of the carb, rather it might sit into a simple in the side of the tube. If you drill right through, you will end up with the screw head interrupting the flow of air down the carb. Keep any drilling shallow. I'm curious why you are putting the block in the oven now? There is nothing else really to come off the block, and the bearings can be flushed through while in place. J
  8. Those wheels were fitted to the RS200, the Peugeot 405 rallye and the Lancia Delta. The Citroen ZX and Mitsubishi Pajero, all had the spoke design wheels. The tyres were the same across all the models. They are very similar in design to the Optima wheels, but slightly wider. The electric Sierra rs500 cosworth also used the spoke design wheels, but they were silver rather than flat white. J
  9. I may have misled you a bit, i forgot to mention that you have to take the cylinder liner out of the block in order to get enough side to side movement on the con rod. Sorry about that. The process is straight forward enough. Once the head is off, you will see the top of the cylinder insert. When the piston is right down, put the end of a flat screwdriver into the exhaust port and lift the liner upward. Dont try and lever it as this may crack the block, but rather hold the block and lift the end of the screwdriver. Once the top of the liner is exposed above the top of the block, use some plumbers grips ( or some other type of swan neck pliers with soft jaws) to twist and pull the liner out. The conrod will come straight off of the crank, as at this point the piston can move from side to side. This will also aid you in cleaning everything. the liner just pushes back in after, making sure to line the exaust port up. Ive attached a bit of inspiration for you, a before and after shot of a couple of my engines. Keep at it. J
  10. I would definitely take the cylinder head off. Once you've done that, if you turn the engine so that the piston is right at the bottom of the barrel, you can unhook the conrod from the crank pin and slide the piston out of the top. Once you have done that, take the flywheel off the front of the crank, and using a copper or other soft mallet, you can knock the crank shaft out through the back of the block. What you are left with then, is the bare case with just the roller bearing in, much easier to clean up. The end of the starter spindle is meant to be smooth, the bearing grips it in one direction only. Gummed up nitro fuel is notoriously hard to remove, I have seen people sand blast the casing, but it gives a nasty finish. I have achieved quite good results by putting some of the less gummed parts I the dish washer on a hot cycle. Dont tell the missus tho.....🙄 Its rewarding when you have finished and the engine looks and runs great though, so stick with it. J
  11. First off, welcome to the club. That looks like a good original model there, as has been stated, they are worth whatever the highest bid is. I love the chain for the front body mount clip, I've spent plenty of time looking for a clip I've dropped in the grass. J
  12. Welcome to the site. It was a HotShot that got me back into the RC hobby after about 20 years in the wilderness. I bought it at a local model shop for the price of a pint of beer and set about restoring it. It gave me enormous satisfaction, and so i started collecting again. Mine too had the loose ball joint thing going on, but mine was missing the dogbone drive shaft on one side. It was extremely difficult to find one at the time, and im not sure the re release was out then either. Good luck with the restoration. Post some pictures along the way. J
  13. The other thing that is missing from that picture, is the clutch bell housing. The clutch is there, but you are missing the drive sprocket off of the end. Did you take it off, or is it missing? J
  14. If the pull start is turning but the crank is not, the chances are, the one way bearing has collapsed. This is the but that grips when you pull the starter, but then free wheels when the engine is running. These are available and are easy to fit. J
  15. My Tamiya 1:14 Man 6x4 truck. 2 years so far, but I think that may be more the fact that I have too much else to do than the kit being difficult to build......🤔 J
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