danb1974

A way to obtain just a hair more clearance between front wheels and body when steering angle is already modded ... front body posts have slop (they rotate around their screw axis), so make sure they are all the way to the front of the car, to keep the body as forward as possible Simplest and ugliest hack, a small piece of plastic in the right place (the body post is from a very soft plastic, so just tightening the screw does not really work)

... this brought back a memory, other models use little foam pads to press against the dogbones, why does this one use o-rings? (unfortunately only had one in the spares box, so had to cut two from some leftover material, way better, suspension now smooth)

Anybody tried switching to cvd axles instead of stock dogbones? Seems that besides the cvd kit (53597) the diff outputs need to be replaced with tt-02 ones (54477)...? Because the output shaft is only held in place by that o-ring that presses the dogbone against it, the suspension is not smooth (hops around the middle position)

Tried on carpet with the (almost)locked diff, slightly better but seems that for rwd drift you really need huge steering angle to control the slide. Argh. Only ideea left, find some tape that is not so slippery for the rear wheels.

That's... a lot doubles the price of the car, which means you're better off buying a drift chassis But a very interesting upgrade from a technical standpoint So, the one thing you absolutely need for drift is the rear diff to be locked, if wheels do not spin the same, you cannot control the slide. Not wanting to actually lock it, I poured some very thick (100000) diff oil (actually not fluid at all), too bad the diff is not sealed.

What's the easiest way to somehow drift this thing indoor, just for fun, just enough to control it? Tape on rear wheels and lock the rear diff (maybe stiffen the suspension too)? Tape only does not work, rear spins completely out of control.

Noname 23mm soft springs just arrived - the blue ones in the picture. They are a tad softer than the "super softs" from YR (the black ones), but surprisingly not as soft as they look Tomorrow I'll test how they feel

M-07 looks better, if that screw near the wheel is what I think it is

(Let me see what else I have on the shelf) CC-01 is somehow in between but this one has other challenges being 4wd (already updated to cvd, still needs half a room to turn)

Yeah Racing 50mm short shocks (see some posts above, I've built them using the long ends - they come with two options - to avoid the wheel hitting the shock end issue when upping steering angle) Those come with four spring options, but even the super soft ones are not that soft as the stock springs. Can't use stock tamiya springs on yr shocks because they are too long. Ordered some random soft springs from ali, waiting to see what I get.

In my defense so to speak I really liked the Abart body (now that stickers fun and the full spectre of emotions I experienced applying them is behind me) and I needed a low cost car to keep myself busy, with no other goal than to run it inside I've even ordered what I hope are (even) softer springs, to get a less performant more fun behaviour Indeed the entire front seems rushed which is too bad for a new chassis that, while low cost, was designed to be versatile and I expect will be present many years

Yup same on this one, can't use thinner hexxes not even 1mm thinner (which would probably just get you enough clearance vs the body) because there's virtually no space between rim and lower arm Those ball articulations are huge, they should have used kingpin screws instead Everything is stacked against getting a decent steering angle Real bummer - giving all the improvements, like standard hardcase lipo space, adjustable toe, droop screws, motor mount variants

The reason this one needs such big clearance between front wheel and body... notice the distance between wheel center line and rotation axis (mainly because wheels are small and cannot go over the knuckle) compared to an offroad car whose wheels turn almost "in place" (rim inside diameter more than enough)

Poor man's magnetic body mounts (when the holes are already there). This is only to avoid visible clips. Body mounts still go through the shell. Quick Sunday morning improvisation. Materials: two (expired) plastic cards, four flat body clips, four rubber orings, eight small magnets, leftover double sided tape. Mistakes I made: magnets are too close the the body mounts so I had to use small clips. Also my magnets are on the weak side, so this is only for indoor use. Hmmm maybe I should double them.

Now onto the steering angle fun. Stock steering angle… we all know how bad it is… probably the technical reason is to alow fwd without expensive cvd axles, just with those cheap plastic/metal dogbones. Also, a major issue is that the rotating (steering) axis of the wheel is way too far from the wheel center line (hard to explain in words… basically the wheel should come over those ball articulations to rotate “in place”, but those are too big so the wheel is way to the ouside). Because of that wheel when rotating also goes way forwards / backwards hitting whatever is in it’s way. Unfortunately increasing steering angle leads to a bunch of issues: Wheel tyre hits shock (Opposed wheel’s) axle cup hits shock (because plastic, those cups are sooo big compared to metal versions) Wheel hits body (on this particular body) Increasing the steering angle (stage 1) requires two things to have a 3rd grade encounter with your favourite dremel-like tool: Cut down the stops on the lower arms Cut just a bit on the upper arm using a round grinding stone (not so much as on my photos) These allow a decent angle, that is until you hit the limits of the steering mechanism. You may want to rethink the servo neutral position to be a bit angled toward the front of the car, to avoid the steering rod hitting the servo saver. Where I am at this moment: Switched to YR shocks, assembled using the long ends, which solves issues 1 and 2 (end of the shock spring is higher, no longer in the path of the tyre and the cup) Shims on the inside of the axle, to avoid lateral wheel play and keep the wheel closer to the chassis. Not much but still around 1mm gained. Playing with suspension droop and body mount height, still having issues...