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About danb1974

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  1. Expect... well, a lot :) decent steering angle out of the box, not purchasing expensive Tamiya cvd set redesign of the steering mechanism, get rid of the horrible plastic pass-though thing and wire links less flex in rear links standard battery size compartment bearings Though I'm not really optimistic (see TT-02 vs TT-01)
  2. Try to calibrate the esc, it will not arm if it does think gas is not at neutral point
  3. Have to subscribe to the "don't like" list. For me, wheels and body do not pair well, and it does not look "tamiya cool", it's just a generic "6 wheels with big rims" thing. Glad I have the first G6-01, just wish it had better ground clearance.
  4. This cleaned up url should suffice https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-HG-Hengguanshan-pig-climbing-car-1-10-2-4G-4WD-pickup-truck-mountain-pig-climbing/32877936803.html
  5. Plastic too soft to cleanly rip out the remaining part of the screw. Made a partial mess, covered it with black hot glue, cut a M3 thread through bumper holder and found some perfect-lenght M3 screws. If you intend to test drive that bumper, which seems attracted somehow by immoveable objects, better replace the screws before you tear them apart (who said metal beats plastic). Also, if you intend to bring it alive, fit a 3300-ish kV brushless motor and go gentle on the throttle. No need to glue the tires. A waterproof combo combined with sticking on the stock bushings should be fun on snow/water/mud.
  6. So, the bumper screws are so soft that one broke inside the plastic part. Normally this means another F parts tree (10 euros) and a bumper screw set (4 pcs for 8.50 euros) Since this is not acceptable giving how easy it was to break them, I'll have a blast trying to drill out the remaining of the screw and finding some real screws to reattach the bumper.
  7. A sudden 2 inch descent, front bumper clipping the dirt at landing with one side. Hardly spectacular or extreme. Since bumper screws thread into extreme soft plastic, one screw was torn out and got lost, the other got bent (now using some sort of hardened alu for screws, steel is so yesterday?). No point in replacing screws, will happen again giving the bumper width and the two attaching points way too inside and far away from bumper ends. I don't expect this to happen if you hit a frontal obstacle with the whole bumper, just when hitting with one end.
  8. You have that big nice soft bumper and the two (way too) beefy springs. Yet, at first impact, the screws bend and get torn out (goodbye thread), instead of letting the other parts do their jobs. I think they did not take into account the new weight of the 6x6 chassis when they borrowed the bumper from the smaller ones. (wr-02? or which one has the same bumper) So, if you intend to bash a little, you have to rethink the whole thing.
  9. Seems that front bumper screws are as soft as the bumper itself. Wonder if this is a new trend to save a penny or two. Just be prepared to rethink how you attach the bumper to the car...
  10. I'd go with a sensored brushless. It responds much quicker to throttle input. Which is something you want when drifting.
  11. With a 3-channel programmable radio (with channel mixing) you can build it 4ws and disable rear steering from the remote. I highly recommend such a setup just to be able to set for each servo separate center and endpoints. With 2ws, the turning radius is BIG. With 4ws it oversteers like crazy and tends to roll over.
  12. Yes it flips easily on high grip surfaces. I wouldn't say that at any speed. I have expo and go easy on the steering, it's different from other cars.
  13. On a faster/heavier car (think sct, or 1/8 buggy), a 2s/6600 lipo is done in 15 minutes. In a 1/8 monster truck, double the battery and still 15 minutes of hardcore driving.
  14. You don't want to use tamiya connectors with lipo. Under anything than light usage, it would melt. Normally when you switch to lipo it's like "what the..." followed by (on stock brushed systems) the smell of an overheated motor
  15. Since your chassis does not seem to have adjustable steering links, just hook up the servo, set the steering trim to center on your radio, power up, mount the servo horn as close as the position depicted in the manual as you can. If your radio has subtrim, use that to get the horn into the exact position.
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