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About TDanny

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  1. Hi Guys, It seems that I need some help from all you Monster Beetle owners out there... I spent my last two nights with my Beetle chassis assembly and finally it seems that I'm finished. I heard about the diff problems before so I went straight ahead and built the transmission with two 0.5mm shimms (Traxxas No.:1985...). It was a tight fit, I bearly could screw the transmission side plates together but I don't want to have a diff problem during running in the future. Now the diff action is tight but seems ok. It is as tight as when I turn one wheel, the other wheel and the motor spins with it and there is no diff action, but when I hold the other wheel the diff comes in nicely. Like a limited slipp diff. Now that the gearbox is now a bit wider, I had to take one rubber O-ring out from the right drive cup where Tamiya advices to put two of them because it was too tight and the trailing arm couldn't move freely. I tested the car today morning but what problem I have now is that the right CVD and wheel shakes really bad at middle speed. Shaking stops when the trailing arms pushed up to a middle posotion and the CVD's are almost straight. So could it be because the shimms are too tight? Or is it only the nature of the car? Should I take one shim out to make the diff a bit loose? Every other MB owner seems to use two of them on each sides... My problem is that it is a brand new gearbox and I know that it is a bit tight fit with the shimms already in but all MB gearboxes seems to get loosen with time and I wanted to cure the diff clicking in the first round. I know that MIP diff is a way to go but I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on a new car... Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance, Daniel
  2. Thank you guys... I bought the car... came with torqe tuned motor cant wait to put it back together.
  3. Is Tamiya AW grease safe in a plastic geared diff like the TT02 in long term?
  4. His Guys, I know that there are a lot of TT vs TT topics out there but I could'nt find much about the average durability of these two chassis. Now I found a nice TT02 Impreza MC 99 at my LHS. I was'nt into on road RC since 20 years so I'm a bit confused. I know that TT01s are great and durable for street bashing but I like the TT02 better for the ground clearence. Is the TT02 as durable as the TT01e? If I hand the controller to the kids will it hold up to the task? Thanks in advance, Daniel
  5. Today I placed my order for the Dualhunter and a few minutes later my LHS called me that there was a stock problem on their site and the DH is no more available But they offered me a NIB Double Blaze... what do you guys think? Its even more old than the DH but nice little truck. Will it be ok for bashing?
  6. Looks sweet... will the stock gearing handle it?
  7. I was thinking about buying an Aqroshot or a MadBull.... Maybe I'll give the DT03 a try...
  8. Hello Guys, Last week I picked up a Monster Beetle Re-Re. It's really a nice truck but I have no experience with these type of cars at all. I read about a lot in the past few days and based on the lot of topics and videos I made my decision to build it straight from the box and see how long it will last and what will be needed to upgrade in the future. I'm only doing one upgrade and that is shimming the diff gear in the gearbox. I bought the traxxas part number: 1985 shimms. My question is that do I need to put shimz on both side of the diff gear or ponly one needed? THX in advance, Daniel
  9. You are right but to be fair if you look at Tamiyas production line there are way way more type of cars-chassis still in production than any other RC manufacturers lineup. And if you look deeper into other manufactuters lineup you realise that they are doing the same thing like reusing identical chassis. You dont have to go far; Traxxas Stampede-Slash4x4-Rustler4x4 or the dozen cars running on the 2wd Slash chassis. Tamiya have more different chassis and cars in production than the whole other rc world together. And these manufacturers dont produce tanks, bigrigs, plastic models, etc... etc...
  10. In a perfect world I bet Tamiya would continue producing only high grade RC masterpieces like in the past... However the world have changed in a not soo good way. Today manufacturers have to come out with new products every single month or they will get boring. Today if you spend a year developing a new model there will be a chinese company which will copy your product in a week. I think these new model lines at Tamiya are not about putting less effort in developing. They are more about trying to keep up with the trends while saveing some time for developing their high grade rcs. Making fast and high performance cars is not Tamiya. Tamiya is making vehicles with soul. And dont forget that while for example Traxxas can focus on their vehicles Tamiya have to focus on eighter their plastic model market and their paints, and their many other product lines... Maybe Tamiya wehicles dont seem to be high performance but I remember my HPI WK blown its diff in a day on the track Tamiya cars still going strong. And if bigsquid rc rates the new Tamiya Comical Grasshopper as great and durable than I think Tamiya models are still great.
  11. What the h*ll is going on here? I mean look at these cool new cars Tamiya has announced in the past few years... While other manufacturers are just after speed and performance Tamiya brought back the new golden age of RC. Konghead, Dancing Rider, Lunch Box mini, Comical Grasshopper and now this beauty. I know that some of these models may use parts from older cars but really who cares? NICE WORK TAMIYA!
  12. Thank you Berman, Just curious about the length. That is 41,6mm on my servo. Will the mounting holes on the chassis clear the holes on the servo? On my CC01 and WR02 one of the mounting holes let some play. As far as I see on the MB chassis no play allowed becouse the holes are at a fix position. Thx again for the help
  13. Hi Guys, I just purchased a nice Monster Beetle ReRe from my LHS and waiting to arrive...:) I didn't bought a servo becouse I have a nice HPI SS40wp servo around which is high torque and waterproof... I just opened the MB's PDF manual and saw that there is a "ideal servo size" drawing. This is the servo size: 38x41.8x20.2mm And it is 18mm from the mounting point to the top. Tamiya states 41mm max in length and 16mm in height... Have somebody tried to fit a servo with the same dimensions or there is no way to fit it? Thanks in advance, Daniel
  14. Hi Guys, This week I spotted a nice NIB Tamiya Dual Hunter at my LHS and was thinking about buying it for making a good runner/basher. Before I convinced myself to hit the "BUY" button I started thinking about how these old NIB kits will take the beating. Don't get me wrong, I know that Tamiya makes high quality stuff and their plastics are over this world but the fact is that this car is sitting on the shelf for more than 10 years now. It wont be a problem if I wanted a shelf queen or so but what about bashing these old kits. Will they take the beating like new kits or they break more easily? Any toughts on this would be welcome. Best regards, TDanny
  15. Hello everyone, I just couldn't resist buying a re-re Hornet as I never had such a beautiful old school buggy before. Now as all my cars are runners, this will be a runner too for sure. Nothing too crazy but a little racing on the track and some small jumps. I have seen some forums where people complained about the Hornets chassis being too weak at the front shock towers. Is this true for the re-re version or it is just a weakness of the old version? Will it make sense to reinforce the chassis at the first assembly or it will be ok? Thanks in advance, Daniel
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