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TDanny

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Everything posted by TDanny

  1. You can easily maka a Black edition by using the soon to be released clear body, two set of Tamiya Man Race truck black rear rims and MCI racing decals. Im planning doing the same thing but with Grave Digger decals... By the way I think that the SW01 is one of Tamiyas most versatile chassis with a lot of potential. It is a compact 4x4 gearbox wich could be used in a lot of trucks with different suspension setting. It could de the saint grail to pover up Bruder 6x4 tractor trucks or you could easily combine two SW01s and make a 8x8 truck.
  2. They want to give you the chance to spend another 220 Euros for Tamiya Hop-Up metal parts... After all they are Tamiya Plastic Model Factory...
  3. Could it be that the plastics used in CC02 are FRP plastic? Seems strange on the close-ups.
  4. Well my plan is to build a Mini Lunchbox Grave Digger but as far as the clear body comes out I had to do something with those silly wheels... The Bright orange matches the color of the flash stripe on the sides.
  5. I think it will be fine as it seems to stick quite good. The rims are quite deep so the tires will protect them.
  6. Not good, not terrible... Will do it for a runner. Yes, the rims were painted silver.
  7. Thank you max69vk, I'll try it this way :)
  8. They are matte silver thats sure, not shiny.
  9. Hi Guys, I wonder if somebody has some idea for painting wheels. I bought a set of Tamiya Race Truck matte silver plated wheels for my LB mini. I want to spray it with Tamiya TS-31 Bright Orange paint. Can I apply the paint directly on the matte silver wheels? Or do I need to sand the silver from the wheels? I guess that the paint would stick to the matte silver surface but not sure. Also if I have to sand it, is there a way to sand the rims correctly? I mean there are a lot of fine details on the rims like nuts and bolts as it is a truck rim. Seems impossible to use sanding paper. Thanks in advance if you have any idea
  10. I ordered two set of Tamiya Race Truck silver rims and planning to use the two set of rear deep dish wheels from them. Also ordered a Tamiya TS-31 Bright Orange spray to paint them. I like the color of Joeling's wheels and how they match the flash stripes orange on the body. I also like the Traxxas wheel but they are a bit too expensive in my LHS. We'll see.
  11. The clear body is announced on tamiya's site so it will be out soon: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/truck/rc-body-set-lunch-box-mini/ One problem I found so far is that there is a mounting hole on the motor mount which the motor don't overlap so the dirt can get in the gearbox... I temporary sold it with some grease but I think it needs some thermo tape to protect. Those Teton wheels do look great...
  12. Forget the ca. The spinning will always happen on the internals with the less resistance. So maybe the gear will spin on the shaft for a little while but after the gears will pack up with a little grease and nylon particles, the bearings will imidiately take up the job. Better to keep everything free and let it spin free.
  13. Maybe sounds funny but my vote would be the Comical Grasshopper/Hornet... Dont cost much, easy build, goes on and off road, has good ground clearence, has nice CVA shocks, bulletproof gearbox, big wheels. And if the Bigsquid guys say its bulletproof and undestructable thats something.... With some nice paint job and decals it can be made look agressive rather than silly...
  14. After only a few days of living room quest and shelf patrol the rear springs almost flat out... they compressed more than 50% so changed them to the hop up hard set. Front springs seem to be fine the factory way... I have a strange feeling that tamiya saw this problem at the beggining... 70% of the cars weight lays on the rear suspension. Thats why the hop up springs were released so early. Hope that the rear upper arms will take the beating. Any other experiences? Im useing 4AAs...
  15. Yes, not a tight fit even with bearings installed. I guess the pin glueing is for the newbies not to loose them while assembling the wheels... maybe. I love this little thing so far. The only thing I don't like are the upper arms. They are so soft that they bend before the springs really compress. Like the good old CC01 trailing arms. Those would be better from a hard ABS plastic material. I bought the hop up springs and the hard springs are really useless... Beside all this, I don't think that it's a toy grade RC. Seems quite durable. It's another Tamiya classic... pure fun :)
  16. Finished up mine yesterday... is there any point glueing the pins in the axle shaft under the wheel hexes? I just skipped this step... Overall I'm totally impressed how this little guy performs... it's a real room cruiser.
  17. Oh, I ment I wipe them with alcohol only from the outside and then wipe them dry with paper towel. I usually grease all may axles and gears with Tamiya ceramic grease so they will be covered with some grease anyway... I looked after these bearings and the manufacturer stated that they are filled with a kind of lithium grease. As far as I know thats plastic safe.
  18. Thank you very much. I will wipe them with alcohol from the outside and leave them the way they are and we'll see... as small bearings are usually used in small machines like printers etc... they must be plastic safe... The 630 bearings are so small that there is no chance to take the shield off and clean them out... I mean no chance for me
  19. Hi Guys, I'm a bit confused so I need some help from you. A few days ago I bought some new bearings for my SW-01 LB Mini. They are KBS branded, a chinese manufacturer. and metal shielded. So they arrived today and when I opened the box I felt a strong smell of machine grease. I wrote to the seller and asked that if it's safe for plastic. They replied that it must be fine but I'm a bit confused... Would it be a good idea to wash them out or should I leave them the way they are? Have somebody used KBS bearings before? Thanks in advance, Daniel
  20. Thx for the help... Last night I deassimbled the gearbox and get rid of one shim so I only left one in the gearbox. The diff action is still stiff but way smoother now. Future will tell
  21. Hi Guys, It seems that I need some help from all you Monster Beetle owners out there... I spent my last two nights with my Beetle chassis assembly and finally it seems that I'm finished. I heard about the diff problems before so I went straight ahead and built the transmission with two 0.5mm shimms (Traxxas No.:1985...). It was a tight fit, I bearly could screw the transmission side plates together but I don't want to have a diff problem during running in the future. Now the diff action is tight but seems ok. It is as tight as when I turn one wheel, the other wheel and the motor spins with it and there is no diff action, but when I hold the other wheel the diff comes in nicely. Like a limited slipp diff. Now that the gearbox is now a bit wider, I had to take one rubber O-ring out from the right drive cup where Tamiya advices to put two of them because it was too tight and the trailing arm couldn't move freely. I tested the car today morning but what problem I have now is that the right CVD and wheel shakes really bad at middle speed. Shaking stops when the trailing arms pushed up to a middle posotion and the CVD's are almost straight. So could it be because the shimms are too tight? Or is it only the nature of the car? Should I take one shim out to make the diff a bit loose? Every other MB owner seems to use two of them on each sides... My problem is that it is a brand new gearbox and I know that it is a bit tight fit with the shimms already in but all MB gearboxes seems to get loosen with time and I wanted to cure the diff clicking in the first round. I know that MIP diff is a way to go but I don't want to spend a whole lot of money on a new car... Any advice would be great. Thanks in advance, Daniel
  22. Thank you guys... I bought the car... came with torqe tuned motor cant wait to put it back together.
  23. Is Tamiya AW grease safe in a plastic geared diff like the TT02 in long term?
  24. His Guys, I know that there are a lot of TT vs TT topics out there but I could'nt find much about the average durability of these two chassis. Now I found a nice TT02 Impreza MC 99 at my LHS. I was'nt into on road RC since 20 years so I'm a bit confused. I know that TT01s are great and durable for street bashing but I like the TT02 better for the ground clearence. Is the TT02 as durable as the TT01e? If I hand the controller to the kids will it hold up to the task? Thanks in advance, Daniel
  25. Today I placed my order for the Dualhunter and a few minutes later my LHS called me that there was a stock problem on their site and the DH is no more available But they offered me a NIB Double Blaze... what do you guys think? Its even more old than the DH but nice little truck. Will it be ok for bashing?
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