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Stoat Muldoon

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Everything posted by Stoat Muldoon

  1. Hi people of Tamiyaclub A friend of mine has a Tamiya Wild Commando that he's trying to restore, and he's after a manual for it. We've both searched high and low on the internet to no avail, having only found the quick start guide. Does anyone: Have a link to the full manual online Have a physical copy of the manual they wouldn't mind scanning and uploading Have a physical copy of the manual they wouldn't mind selling Any help is greatly appreciated!
  2. Stickers arrived from MCI, applied and clearcoated over. Just the tires and antenna now. Onwards to bigger things!
  3. Haha, small world (To clarify, my previous post shows how I found out it was you, I found the Hopper by just searching). I look forward to receiving it, should be a nice easy fixer-upper. I'd have that Brat too if I A, hadn't just got one and B, had the cash. Just about skint in terms of RC budget besides that I've set aside for paint and related items. I hope to update this thread and my Hilux one soon with some stripped bodies. That reminds me, I need Brat decals. Re-Res will probably do.
  4. Well, I went out to get some stuff a few days ago (haven't posted since, because I'm doing my mock AS exams at school this week and am quite busy) only to realize that I'd bought brake cleaner and not Brake fluid. I must have found the section in Halfords for brake fluid and then looked through the prices to see which was cheaper, and picked one without realizing it was brake leaner not fluid. Fortunately on the same trip I did get some Mr Muscle oven cleaner (same stuff as Easy Off but sold under a different name and in the UK, or so I'm told anyway) so that should work too. I hope to get the bodies stripped this weekend and I shall order some styrene sheet, paint, primer and filler later this evening. On a side note, I think I may have bought a Grasshopper II SuperG from you on eBay? I saw your classified ad for a Brat which linked to the eBay page for it, where I found the Grasshopper under the 'more from this seller' thing.
  5. Thinking of picking one of these up from them: http://www.tamico.de/Tamiya-Mad-Fighter-DT-01-Bausatz-OHNE-REGLER 40 euros = roughly £33. £33 quid for a brand new Mad Fighter (albeit minus the ESC)! That was the first Tamiya RC I ever saw in action, so it makes me want to bite the bullet and get one providing that postage isn't too much. But I've just got two RCs last Christmas, probably can't justify another, however cheap.
  6. 1.Toyota 4x4 Pickup tailgate emblem 2.Toyota 4x4 Pickup Headlight and signal lights (At a reasonable price) 3.Toyota 4x4 Pickup rubber motor cover There's much more stuff, but those are my top 3 as of this moment.
  7. I think that the point of the 'kids getting RTRs from parents etc' aspect to this debate needs a little refining. It is true that there are a large number of young people who, one way or another, find out about the hobby and make a purchase with minimal research, having seen videos on YouTube (More on this sub-point later)of brushless+LiPo powered Hpi Savages and Traxxas Slashes. That's they want; A toy car that will do as in the videos. But then, way back in the eighties, There was no YouTube. There was no Internet. People would find out about the hobbies through friends or elations, or seen the cars in action in front of them. People would do things properly, they'd do the research, work out what they needed and go to the shop; ask the man behind the counter, look at different kits and so forth. And they'd buy something, or get it for Chistmas etcetera. They'd be overjoyed and then spend hours build it, with or without help. Since the invention and more importantly popularization of the internet, information became easier to share. More people found out about the hobby, and more people did what was describe two paragraphs above this one. These people are largely auxiliary to the hobby, they are added, they have not replaced the 'original' type of customer even though they may vastly outnumber them. But the people who find out 'the proper way' are still popping up. In fact, I'd go as far as saying there's more of them, since those of you who lived through the 80s and were part of the RC scene may have have grown up and had children who you've introduced to the hobby the same way you were as children. Hobby shops have done the only thing they could do to heighten their profits; start catering for the more frequent customer. From a buisness standpoint, they ought to ignore those of us who want the full Tamiya kit experience because far more people want RTRs. Sorry if that was all waffle, having difficultly finding a good way to word my points.
  8. Much like the RR, The Brat went through a MK1 phase and a MK2 phase (Don't know if there was a MK3 excluding the Re-Re). When it was initially designed, the ORV served no other purpose other than to sit under the Brat body. When Tamiya created the Frog, they added a skidplate do the bottom of the car and a lower body post at the front. These added parts required mounting points to be added to the Chassis and bumper stay, which the MK1 Brat did not have. When the Frog was released, Tamiya used the same parts with the additional mounting points on the Brat to save costs on molding. At the same time the fixed a problem they overlooked when designing the Brat; the wide Ranger front wheels made the car wider at the front than it was at the back. So they created slightly adjusted rims, where the hub was closer to the outer edge of the rim so that tire shifted inwards, narrowing the track. Boy, I literally knew virtually nothing about Brats until I bought one, research sure does help.
  9. The lights, as mongoose said, are in fact white plastic. The roll bar is black plastic.
  10. The MK1 Brat I believe had deeper front wheels, the same as the ones found on the Ranger as mongoose says. If you measure from the point on the inside of the rim where the spokes meet the rim itself to the part where the flat surface curves away to create the lip, the deeper MK1/Ranger rims are 1.2cm, and the newer MK2/Re-Re Brat rims are 0.9cm. Also, you should be able to tell if it's an early one by the underside of the chassis; if it has the mount of the Frog skidplate or the Frog's front body post mount on the bumper stay then it's a late model. If it has neither of those and deep wheels, then its an early model/MK1. It's hard to tell which yours is from the pics, but find a good steel ruler and take a peek. I literally learned all this today after doing lots of research, haha. Thanks for the pics too, need to get me one of those antennas. I believe the Early model brat has the same deeper dish wheels as the Ranger, that made it wider at the front than it was a the back. Later brats had Shallower rims and additional mounting points for Frog parts. Thanks for the links, some good pics in there.
  11. Heh, The ORV is certainly better than the SRB in terms of performance. For example, the rear suspension actually compresses! Who'd have thought?! I know the SRB's supposition does work, but on mine the torsion bars have somehow hardened and gone incredibly stiff. I ought to get some re-re ones to fit it. In fact, the whole car could do with a full resto job. The brat doesn't look too bad at the front once you get the shallower dish rims on the front, but still doesn't tuck amazingly. Rear looks pretty good though. I just checked the Brat body on my RR by turning the chassis upside down and holding the body over it, to be honest it looks pretty much the same as the ORV with the deep rims, but a little better with the shallow ones. Maybe the planned to use different rims?
  12. Well now theres a funny thing, I wondered why that line was there! Comparing it to my SRB it's the perfect shape to fit over the roll bar and the gearbox, plus the damper if mine wasn't just a lowly RR. Looking at pictures I can see that the posts line right up too. Thanks for that bit of a trivia, might try and mount up a Brat body to a Super Champ some day. If I ever get a spare Brat body and a Super Champ, that is. I wonder why developed a whole new chassis instead of use the SRB?
  13. Thanks! The shops open tomorrow, So I'll be heading out to various hardware stores and craft shops around town to see if any has styrene plastic, brake fluid and other supplies. Paint and primer will probably be sourced on the internet, since I want the right colour. Same goes for filler putty. Never knew the Brat body was intended for the Super Champ. How would it even fit?! Thanks! He probably did, hehe. It looks like he was going to do the whole car, but got bored. Must have taken him ages with that many coats though, seems shame to strip off all that effort.
  14. Thanks for clearing those things up, will be helpful for my build. I'll fix both bodies, but I think I'll start with the red one then take my time on the slightly less damaged one and use it as a shelfer body. It doesn't have a diff, no. Just the standard solid driveline. Sorry I missed some pictures. Was up late last night for new year, pretty tired right now. The copper rod I was referring to is the antenna, didn't think about what was writing . It's a long copper rod with black insulation around it. I was just curious if this is a standard part, or another of the previous owners bodge jobs. Doesn't really require a picture, as you can't really see it anyway. Here's the one of the damage I missed: Quite a nasty crack. It extends all the way back to the start of the wheel well, along tha darkened line where it's been glued in the past.
  15. Sorry I haven't posted any more pics recently, been busy with school. Anyway, here's the latest: A nice roll bar complete with 'daylighter' roof lights A lovely piece of kit this. Works like a charm, and nice and clean too. The nice orderly radio box. Got these at Christmas. 3 cheap waterproof Altern servos. Used em before, never broken one. They're my top servo for low cost/ low power applications, such as most Tamiyas. The ones that are in the tray right now are borrowed from other cars just to get the Hilux running. It's a good car to run, very lifelike. And once you get all the weight in there, the flex improves a pit. Haven't been able to do any painting because of the weather. If it doesn't improve I'll have to clear out some space in the shed to make a painting booth.
  16. This Christmas I was fortunate enough to receive a fairly large sum of cash (as far as a 16 year old's pocket money goes; we're not exactly talking thousands here) from my loving parents. Having instantly deciding to put the towards RC stuff, I thought to myself 'I now have extra funds, what car have I always wanted, but never found the cash to buy at the right time?' 'Of course' I exclaimed to my cat 'A Subaru Brat! I've always wanted one of those since I saw one on the shelf at my LHS. Let's go look on eBay'. My cat sat there looking blankly at me, obviously unwilling to help me search for a Brat. 'Well, screw you then.' I said, and began typing the eBay URL into my web browser. My cat walked quietly out of the room to do whatever cats do. Stuff her face in her litter tray or something, I don't know. About 30 minutes of searching through various Brats that were available at the time, I found one at the reasonable price of £95. Two bodies, both only slightly damaged and the car was 95% complete. I thought 'This has got to be the one'. Looks in good condition, should be an easy job to restore it. But then I noticed the same seller had a Frog and a Thunder Dragon for the same price, in the similar condition. After about 20 minutes of careful consideration, I decided that I wanted a Brat more than a Frog, and that a Thunder Dragon was too light on the peripherals front for the price, so I went for the Brat. The Frog sold soon after. So I put in an offer, and that offer was accepted, lucky for me. a few days later, Mr Postman thrust a large brown box upon me when I open my front door. Oh the Joy as I slashed at the brown parcel tape with my trusty steel Stanley knife, eager to crack open the box and get a whiff of that musky pong of vintage Tamiya plastic. And so, here we are. (Pics from eBay page, courtesy of eBay seller 'sexyevoboy', who has great service by the way) From what I can tell, since it has no skid plate mounts and deep dish font wheels, it's an early model. Whoopee for me, the older the better. Althought it has the front bumper mount with the frog post, maybe that got broken then replaced with a newer one though? Once I got it out of it's box, I instantly started tearing it down and giving it a proper once-over. Parts were scrubbed, de-greased and re-greased, gearbox relieved of old, congealed grease and reassembled, those silly hex drive half shafts received fresh grease. Out went the old electronics for the time being and in went some newer, functioning ones so I could test the mechanicals. I also lobbed on some Re-Re Brat wheels I had on my Ranger to make it the same width at the front that was at the back, since it looked rather silly with the wider fronts. And after all that, this is how she looks at the moment. I peeled the old flaky stickers off, that rather surprisingly took quite a lot of paint with them. I also sanded the edges of the paint to stop it flaking all over my carpet. As you can see, the tailgate bracket has come a cropper of some rear collsions during it's lifetime, hence the wonky tailgate. I'm a big fan of the suspension on the Brat, it certainly does it's job well. Just look at that flex! From what's essentially a buggy! The (nice and clean) chassis. Need to tidy up th wiring if these electronics are stayin in for any great length of time, and find a new left battery retainer so I don't have to use the batteries own cable to stop it from falling out. Not sure what happened here, appears to be black paint on the front of the car. On the hub carrier and the front of the chassis. Also noticed white paint on some of the bumper screws. This is the damage to the red body. It's quite bad, but probably fixable with a little styrene and polycement. The spare body and original electronics. Interesting paint job there, sparkling paint is a nice touch. The main damage to the spare body. The roof rails were damaged, but easily repaired with polycement.Those polkadots must have taken some time to do. The origination owner appears to have installed a different plug, never seen one of those on an RC before. The ceramic resistors are also added. Theres also two of them, they both have 'UTM 308-3 R47 10%m' written on them in red. The receiver also has what appears to be 20 year old plasti-dip coating. Yuck, that stuff goes incredibly sticky after that amount of time. It even stained the plastic of the chassis. Stinks too. Eww. And now it's on to everyones favorite part of thread; Question Time! 1.Which body would it be easiest to repair? They're both damaged so they won't mount properly, and both need fixing. I just need to know which would be easier, fixing a front or rear mounting hole. 2.Did the Brat come with clear or tinted window glass? I have both. Is it the same deal as the Blackfoot? Brat had clear and the Mud Blaster had tinted? 3.Will Re-Re Brat driveshafts fit right in? I may need to replace them, because I don't see those hex jobbies lasting long. 4.Is that copper rod part of the kit, or did the previous owner add that? That's all for now, will update when progress is made. Won't be doing any painting for a while because of the weather, unless I can clear up the shed and make a painting booth.
  17. Thanks for the advice! Which of the mica reds is that, since Tamiya do two? TS-39 or TS-85? Still considering what colour to go for. The more I look at that F-350, the more the colour grows on me. But I'm also thinking about blue, like the one in the old TV commercial. Decisions, decisions . Nice Hilux, Porsche and trailer look good too . Thanks, hoping to finish before the year ends, although that may not be possible if it gets too cold to paint outside. Anyway, some more stuff arrived today. Phone camera got better pics this time as I was taking them in good light. Another servo control column to operate the in-transit TSC: (Little grubby in there, plus I noticed one of the servo mount blocks has fractured and I need another. I als know that two of the columns are the wrong way around according to the manual) Bumper and rubber switch cover: And the bumper with all the body parts on: The tow bar hole is a little bend, nothing that can't be fixed. More pictures soon, once I get the rest of the parts I ordered.
  18. Hmm, good to know. Might sell the shocks if that is the case. Thanks. I take it the OT66 tires are the pin ones, not the foam ones? There's also another set of silver rims and accompanying foams. I'll probably sell them, since one pair is NIP too and the other never used. Could fund another Tamiya Hilux part or two. I'll have to contact this INTEGRA FAN, I'm intrigued by this 'Sedan Conversion'. The shell doesn't look familiar from any other Kyosho cars from back then, suggesting it's after-market. Although, in the sleeve of decal sheets (including bits of a Tamiya Ranger sheet, funny that since I have a Ranger ) I found a blue-tinged folded piece of paper with the title "BP29/Optima/Turbo Optima/Salute - Saloon Bodypost Mntg Kit", (No mention of the Stinger, and what the heck is a BP29? Searching for Optima sedan conversion etcetera got nothing either) and had the instructions for fitting the body posts. You had to do stuff like drill holes, pretty down and dirty back then it would seem. But most importantly, there's no logo or copyright information on this sheet, suggesting it could be Kyosho's product. The title also suggests the shell was bought separately from the post kit. Ooh, I do love a good mystery. Yep, all the original buggy parts are there; Wing, body, decals, shocks tires. I see those holes too. The only stock part missing is the ripcord starter cog, which presumably not put on when the previous owner built it, seeing as he had a rotary starter. The Rip cord is completely unused, as if it was brand new. It's useless, but brand new nonetheless. It runs awesomely, not too fast so it's difficult to break it but gets going pretty good. Run it three times since I got it, a pleasure to pootle about a field with. Surprisingly quite for a nitro too. Never jumped it, though, could'nt risk scaping that gorgeous chassis plate. I've never had trouble with the links, they feel pretty solid to me. But then again, I've hardly run it. Nice Stinger too, interesting gearing setup.
  19. According to this thread http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9012, Easy Off is sold here in the UK as 'Mr. Muscle Oven Cleaner', which I actually have some of. Good news, one less thing to get hold of. How many coats of primer should I use, enough that any remaining paint specks can no longer be seen, or just one coat? Also, how long does that stuff take to cure? And with regard to the pink backing coat, there's only one gloss finish pink paint in the TS lineup, it being this: http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/85025-tamiya-ts-25-pink It looks a little too pink, might it throw off the red? And how many coats of pink would I need to do? Sorry about all the questions, I just want to make sure I do this right. Screwing up the paintwork on such a fine vehicle would be frustrating to say the least. On a more progressive note, I recently received a small sum of money, on which I am spending on this. Long story short, furniture company screwed us over and caused me and my brother a lot of hassle and cluttered up our bedrooms for weeks, and we were given a part refund. Some of which was given to me, since I was affected by the whole escapade. So, on order I have: - TSC (From UK) - TSC mounting bracket and J-bolt (From Japan) - Forward radio box mounting bracket (found you, you little blighter!)(also from Japan) - Some NIP Rubber gearbox caps, because they were only £2.50 for 4 posted. -Stock counter gear. Mentioned this before, but it's not here yet. (Economy postage, pfft) Currently haggling on eBay for: -3 More Servo control arms (only need one, but they only come in threes for some reason) -A rear bumper -A rubber switch cover. Wish me luck! I'll post pictures once the stuff arrives. And by the looks of things I'm going to have a sizable leftover parts pile at the end of this, should be able to sell that stuff and fund the restoration my little Hornet.
  20. Hello to everyone who frequents the Kyosho section here! A while ago I was given a Kyosho Stinger MKII at my local club by the club's owner who had been given it by the cars owner no longer wanted it and couldn't be bothered to sell it. We could all take anything on the condition that we donated an amount of money to the club, which I did. (I did go back and give him £30, felt like I robbed the guy! ). Try as I might, nobody anywhere seems to know anything about it . Posted on the URC forums, no-one there seemed to even know it existed. Anyway, here's some pictures: This is most of the stuff I got, some of it's out of the shot. A close up of the chassis itself: Some of the parts I got with it: (Engine box is empty, by the way) It came with everything; 4 sets of wheels and tires (1 set foams, one set pins and one set on-road), the original shocks new in their blister, an unpainted bodyshell, 2 spare glow plugs, an aftermarket bumper, some random decal sheets along with it's standard ones,alternative springs for the hop-up ones, some spare A-arms (ones on the car are different, hop-up or later version perhaps?) a tool thing for doing stuff, a fuel bottle (handy thing, that) manuals for everything, an unused starting cord and electric 12v starter, a clump of nicely preserved and usable fuel tubing and a Futaba Attack-R radio handset. Also had it's box and some of the internal packaging. (Long sentence there. But this is the internet, sentence structure is invalid ) And on top of that, it runs like a charm and is in brilliant condition. Not a mark on the chassis, practically polished. And then there was this: That's right, this Stinger is a touring car. I can't find any reference to this 'sedan conversion' as it calls itself, anywhere on the net. Absolutely nothing. All I get when I search for it is my own pictures in the URC forums. Could anyone shed light on this? I'm genuinely intrigued. Also, what exactly have I got here in terms of collectability or desirability? is the Stinger MKII something to keep hold of, or should I sell it? Thanks for looking.
  21. Thanks for the tips! I'm pretty sure I'll end up having to contact Bruiserbuilder to get a forward radio crate mounting bracket if one doesn't come up on eBay. An elusive part, it would seem. When you say brake fluid, do you mean the actual hydraulic fluid used to operate the caliper, or brake cleaner? If I'm going to have to strip the paint off and primer it I might not do box art red. Perhaps something a little less common. I'll look at the list in the manual and see what I fancy. I don't think I'll be able to justify buying a compressor and airbrush right now, as I'm currently spending the last of my stockpiled cash on the few remaining bits. But hey, Christmas draws near. Thanks! An acquaintance of mine at my local club was surprised when I told him about this project, he wondered why I was doing it since I wasn't even alive before this trucks heyday had been an gone. I'll probably be asking you about a radio box bracket (as I said earlier) if I can't find one. I wonder why no-one ever seems to sell them on eBay? Thanks for the help, I'll probably be using all Tamiya brand stuff for this, as per the manual (I know you don't have to, but I like it when it's consistent, hehe ). Currently putting together a shopping list as a write this post. ---20 minutes later...--- An here it is! Paint: http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/85008-tamiya-ts-8-italian-red Primer: http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/87044-tamiya-180ml-fine-white-surface-primer-large Filler putty: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bondo-Glazing-Spot-Putty-907-4-5-oz-/330772270210 (Haven't put paint remover here because I don't know what I need yet) Questions regarding this stuff: -How many cans of colour paint and primer am I likely to need? -Does the primer I linked come in a spray can (Can't see a reference to it being in one anywhere)? -Is that the right sort of putty? -What kind of styrene plastic should I get to fix the screw tab on the back of the cab? Questions aside, my new-ish, undamaged and lid-bearing radio box arrived today, as did the bed rails and number plate. Did a quick mock up assembly to see how she looks now that I can actually mount the cab properly. Sorry about the focus here, phone camera doesn't quite cut it in low light environments. This is the best I got. Headlight (singular) is being held in with masking tape. The bed rails. In black, because that's all I could find. But seeing as I'll be repainting it, it doesn't matter much. I almost got hold of the Toyota logo for the back, but someone bought it before I could accept the counter-offer I got. Doesnt look quite right without the nice polished bumper either. I need an original roll-bar too, that's a Blackfoot one on there right now. Ooh, shiny. Old one will probably get flogged off along with the blue cab to raise money for the rest of the build. Note all the skimps on screws. Realized I'm gonna need a few more of the correct size. And washers. Lots of washers. Hope to get some more pictures of it being painted as soon as possible. Gotta get the right stuff first though. Thanks for looking.
  22. Hello people of Tamiyaclub! A while ago I began to gather parts for a Tamiya Hilux and made an account on here to get help and share the build. Unfortunately, there seemed to to be some kind of server bug at the time, and I was unable to log in to my forum account. It probably resolved itself ages ago, but I ended up forgetting about it. Anyway, I am now here and I thought I should share my build. This is how the car looked after the first 3-or-so batches of parts, the first time it was assembled: Chassis: This is how it looks now: I have had it running, but solely to test the mechanicals. I had to replace the counter gear with the only one available; a brass one. It has no chamfer on the end like the stocker so it does struggle to shift into third while moving, something I need to fix so it doesn't damage the tubular rack that slides over the counter gear. Here's some of the body parts after a little sanding before I repaint them (going with box art red, so don't need to strip it all off. Or do I?) As you can see, I did end up buying a new cab with a grille as I couldn't find a grille anywhere. Naturally, as soon as I did so a grille became available . But hey, now I've got another cab. There's a few scuffs and scratches that need filling, and both cab and grille were damaged when I got them, one of the fender lugs and upper mounting post were broken on the grille, and the corresponding mounting post on the shell was also broken. A dab of superglue later and they were good as new: Should really have got some picture prior to gluing them, but the thought slipped my mind. A common problem that I need to rectify with the addition of a little styrene. One of the rings around the holes on the back of the cab back has broken off, and needs replacing too. Monsieur Tamiya has a light limb related ailment. Nothing a little plastic cement can't fix. Reproduction decals I got on Fleabay. Quality isn't great, but they'll do once placed. I currently have a new radio box and lid on their way to me, which shall allow me to properly mount the body. The old one along with the blue cab will probably be sold off in a job lot of leftover parts once I'm done. I don't think you can see in any of the pictures, but the window glass I bought has a crack in it. Not sure if I should replace it or try and fix it with glue lots of scratch remover and plastic polish. A list of the parts I'm currently in need of: -Rear bumper -Front radio box mounting bracket (Why does no-one ever seem to sell these?) -Third servo saver horn post thing that goes through the radio box -Motor cover -Switch cover -Roof lights -Another headline bucket and lens, and another indicator lens and bucket. The grille I bought had one of each. -A new hub - one of mine is stripped out, meaning the front left wheel is always in freewheel mode. -Bed rails (Trying to haggle myself some on eBay right now) -Transistorized speed controller -Rear-view mirror -Period electronics. Might not manage this one, vintage 3 channel radios are hard to find nowadays. And now we have question time! With regards to painting, what should I do? just paint over the existing stuff after it's been sanded a little? Strip it all off or go from there? Use primer? I have almost zero experience of painting hard bodies. I do have an old Blackfoot shell to practice on though. Also, what paint should I use for box art? The manual says X-7 Red, but that's a brush paint and I'd much rather have the superior finish from one of the rattle cans. The closest I have found is TS-8 Italian Red, is that the same colour or do I need to use non-Tamiya paints to get the right colour? One more thing; what should I use for filling in the deeper scratches? Tamiya do various putties and fillers, but I'm not sure what I ought to use. This build is going to be a little slow, as being only 16 and in full time education with little room for a job, I have a very low income. All of which is getting spent on this, naturally. Thanks for looking.
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