CoolJetta3

got any pics of the breakage? BTW, fate is forcing you now to look into a graphite chassis lol

the saving grace is the 3R shock towers and braces are great for this car (I suppose you can't screw those up too badly),wishful thinking that it equates to their chassis being the same

rcstation on ebay has the 3R graphite chassis conversion http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/380834896421?lpid=82

Yes the Transpeed/Volac stuff is all LRP so there should be something equivalent. This and this look familiar

I have all Novak and haven't had an issue. Havoc ESC and Ballistic 8.5T motor. Actually, I lied, the Havoc had a bad component inside (according to Novak) when I first got it and smoked out after 2-3 runs. Returned it to Novak and they sent me a new one back out within days. This was 2-3 years ago and the set up has been fine ever since.

Its a fun buggy, is all I have to add. Upgraded to ceramic diff balls and some graphite accessories and its been great.

We didn't get quite enough ice here to make a thick enough layer to support an RC. The plowed piles are good to rock crawl on though

Those axles are killer, nicely done! BTW, here is the common cantilever fix on mine. If you're not going for shelf status its the easiest fix and virtually invisible on the stock black plastic arms. Your alloy arms would be a different story though. You could epoxy the arms to the hub to eliminate the play but that's pretty permanent.

The plastic arms also have some play. You'll have to run a tiny zip tie between the two arms to cinch them up or you'll lose a lot of effective suspension movement there. What it will look like is the body bobbing around when you traverse rough terrain. Once I zipped mine together the cantilevers worked so much better and the truck had better composure without the body/chassis swaying

As long as they are more robust than the 3R ones I had. Like I said mine bent almost instantly yet I've had no problems with the stock knuckles so far. BTW I bent my aluminum knuckles on a track barrier, for what it's worth.

My CR has been in action for at least 6 years. Never dies!

Epic. Enough said.

Looks good in classic Frog paint scheme. Would buy and paint it that way.

That Stadium Blitzer shell on the CR-01 a few pages back looks anything but official. Unless they ran the crap out of it before taking pics, the bumper is all scratched up and the beadlock rings are scratched. If it is happening, those aren't the shots Tamiya would release lol

I thought I'd seen it all...

Nice write up. Makes me want to build another one!

Same here, GH damper as the 3rd shock. My top mount is a Yeah Racing ballstud, a nyloc nut helps hold the shock from popping off

Big Wig and Thundershot are my favorite

I have a DF03MS and its been nothing but awesome to use any time I take it out. Novak Ballistic brushless and Novak Havoc 3S ESC Acer Ceramic Nitride diff balls 3R graphite shock towers 3R alloy gearbox brace and rear suspension brace Tamiya Dual Block C tires

Maybe DT-03MS with all hop-up options included to be released shortly after?

Not to sidetrack but I love your B/W tile kitchen floor. Willy is coming up fantastic

Paint the springs black. You'll see them less haha! I put the Tamiya short barrel springs on mine. Maybe I've had it for so long that I don't even notice the springs stand out

Get both if you want to do some trail runs you can use the CC and if you want to tackle a little more aggressive terrain you can use the CR. I'm looking to get a CC next to accompany my CR. Here one of my CR going where its a little tougher for a CC to go here an old shot about 4 years ago or more when I first got it and its other body shell. Still haven't gotten around to buying the Unimog shell for it, but I will.

Yes I agree to prime it. I did with mine and then just went over it with some rattle can black paint from a hardware store I think Rustoleum for wood/plastic/metal. A bunch of light coats until it was laid even

As far as the pinion I used a 26T with the black spur gear (can't recall what tooth count that was) and I can say the motor nor the ESC has run too hot