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About taffer

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  • Birthday 11/24/1974

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    Mold, Holywell, Wales

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  1. What's the tube from? Size etc? (In case any of us has a spare!?)
  2. https://www.plazajapan.com/4950344533015/?gclid=CjwKCAiAkJKCBhAyEiwAKQBCkn1K0-FgquEoWhosOHg3uo4YDKSuL8aBhKMuNspD7jhrd3-HZd1iNBoCnqQQAvD_BwE A set like this should cover most of the screw pins, using the manual calculate which lengths you'll need....you may also need a tamiya shim set to take up any slack, there's also a dt02 shaft set for 22mm length
  3. You could sell it and buy 2 comical buggies to build and run with your son (or two dump trucks!)
  4. It's not really a falcon then....if they called it a hawk or similar and called it a dt-04? Like the striker, if you run in spaces where collisions are unlikely (not in the street) then if should have a pain free life.
  5. Ampro does a front brace for the falcon already and the stadium blitzer, stadium thunder and blitzer beetle were rere years ago and were popular. I have little sympathy with a hobbyist who would be able to buy a rere falcon and not realise its history and then complain the brushless system they put in has wrecked the car. If buying a rere falcon (if and when available) , out of the box it will happily last for many years (just like some originals have). If installing a 20t motor for example id recommend also replacing the screw pins for shafts to reduce the likelihood of splits. It would be fun to put a fresh version through its paces.....
  6. A comical buggy or konghead g6-01 chassis is better than the lunchbox
  7. It's better value to get the ts because of the bearings, you can dual shock on td, with TD front mount it looks a little odd but better with ts shock mount
  8. Like that has been said already, I think it's a good idea only if tamiya also make available a clear bodyset within a few months of release or pre paint only for the first production run then phase into clear body....that situation would be like the 'bonus inside' sticker that used to occur on kits (which doesn't anymore)
  9. Bond on the outside of the chassis, I think the inside will be too tight!?
  10. Yes the 1060 is a good standard esc, except in tamiya chassis it's nice to have a proper switch in the proper location.... I have a few 1060' but prefer modelsports xt-20 (or even xt-12) esc, proper switch that can be screwed on the chassis.....just another option to consider
  11. It's never not an option, if it's not showing because of them listing incorrectly or update, just ask........it has always been an option to remove the esc, even if the option has been forgotten!
  12. You can shop goo the tyre splits and cracks, will keep them going as runners (I've done this may times on rebuilds). Full strip and rebuild I'd recommend, parts are all fairly reasonably priced at the moment....
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