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About zomboided

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  1. I did bearings, brushless motor and better shocks on mine and it's brilliant. I did experiment with some 3D printed double wishbone suspension on the front, but it's not what this buggy is about so when it broke I went back to standard.
  2. I like what @Lee76 said, vulcanising glue should work well and remain really flexible
  3. I’ve finished PLA with sanding and filler primer and had great results. I’ve also had occasions where I’ve not worried about the finished and just used the piece. i think the bigger issue is building the strength into the part and printing it at the appropriate orientation to reduce the likelihood of it failing. Do resin printers have the same issues in terms of weakness across layers?
  4. It’s all a massive journey of discovery....I’m trying to get reasonable results with clear PETG at the moment and learning when to use support, but it still amazes me when I make something out of “nothing” and it fits! Modelling wise, for simple stuff I use openscad because it relates to my nerdy skill set. There’s a new pc in my future for something more complicated tho :-) Bad luck on the parts....I’d say it was time to get your own printer and start on that journey of occasional frustration
  5. @nowinaminute, I printed this out as one of the first things I did when I got a 3D printer. I used PLA and maybe 30% infill, which didn't help, but it broke when i dropped my Mad Bull 3ft onto the floor onto all 4 wheels, right across the suspension links on the tower. My layers were vertical, not horizontal like yours which didn't help, but I did think that if I did this again I'd use a bolt from the other side and use a screw on ball (and I'd redesign the model to add a bit more meat around them). For the time that it did work, it did seem like a great mod though :-)
  6. Roll cage finish is really effective...do you have more info on exactly what paint you used?
  7. The diffs are often discussed as a weak point. Search for TT02B diffs, such as this thread In my TT02B I have a brushless system on LiPo with an ally motor mount, speed gears and DF02 diffs and it gives a decent turn of speed and has been reliable/runs without overheating. The ally steering is also worth doing to as it removes the slop. I don't know that I'd bother with adjustable turnbuckles.
  8. This is cool...I've been looking at 3D printer firmware in Arduino recently with the ability to turn things on and off. If you want to share this earlier, outside of GitHub then I'm happy to see if I can help make it more generic...I think you've done all the hard work, adding some structure should be dead easy! PM me if you want to go this way, dead happy to help the community as well as for my own reasons.
  9. Amazing thread! I have a breadboard on my desk hooked up to an Arduino Nano and a receiver. I had thought I'd use it as a bridge between getting signals in and doing some attenuation of the throttle to slow things down for my little boy. I think I got as far as causing a servo to move all the way, or not at all then moved on to something else. If it's not rude, do you want to share your code please? I'd love a play (or even to contribute - we could build a library on GitHub or something) Now I have gotten my boys ride on car hooked up to an Arduino with some lights, and a siren and faux engine starting noise. Can definitely help you here - you're right in that you need an SD card, and a little MP3 module that you can ping commands at. All easy stuff when you find the right one. The problem comes with things like ongoing engine noises where you're expecting to vary the sound by input (or speed or whatever). Re-sampling or adjusting the sound isn't something that you can do on the cheap MP3 modules...I've not found a way of doing this yet - maybe at this point you're into a Pi0, with one of those small amp boards.
  10. Dremel with sanding drums on slow or even the grinding stone bits. I use a full size metal file for long straight runs and a selection of needle files for detail. Then finish with some fine sandpaper just to get rid of any fuzzies. I spend ages doing this tho......sigh
  11. I'm just getting into 3d printing at the moment. I did a dual wishbone conversion for the Mad Bull. For me it failed along a layer boundary where the shock was screwed into the upright. Point is that orientation of the print matters as much as the infill. I'm gonna get around to printing some more things out (for pennies 😀) and see if I can make them stronger Amazing technology though, has so much potential
  12. This is great advice. I went too over the top with brushless in my Lunchie and ended up making it too much of a handful. I dialled it back to something more suited to the chassis and it's been brilliant fun ever since. Also stock gearbox with no problems and lots of abuse.
  13. I have a half finished one of these. The articulation is a bit limited but it's a brilliant bit of 3D design and printing and the WW2 body fits on it just lovely. Totally recommend this route if you can find the Losi bits
  14. Depends on the job - I like melting sprues into holes with a soldering iron to fill them and then smoothing them over with Isopon P38. I then tend to put a coat of primer on and address small issues with a finishing putty.
  15. I've used t-maxx shocks, but am now on the gmade piggyback shocks. In hindsight the t-maxx shocks (and springs) were fine, I didn't get much of an improvement with the gmades.
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