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zomboided

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Everything posted by zomboided

  1. I did bearings, brushless motor and better shocks on mine and it's brilliant. I did experiment with some 3D printed double wishbone suspension on the front, but it's not what this buggy is about so when it broke I went back to standard.
  2. I like what @Lee76 said, vulcanising glue should work well and remain really flexible
  3. I’ve finished PLA with sanding and filler primer and had great results. I’ve also had occasions where I’ve not worried about the finished and just used the piece. i think the bigger issue is building the strength into the part and printing it at the appropriate orientation to reduce the likelihood of it failing. Do resin printers have the same issues in terms of weakness across layers?
  4. It’s all a massive journey of discovery....I’m trying to get reasonable results with clear PETG at the moment and learning when to use support, but it still amazes me when I make something out of “nothing” and it fits! Modelling wise, for simple stuff I use openscad because it relates to my nerdy skill set. There’s a new pc in my future for something more complicated tho :-) Bad luck on the parts....I’d say it was time to get your own printer and start on that journey of occasional frustration
  5. @nowinaminute, I printed this out as one of the first things I did when I got a 3D printer. I used PLA and maybe 30% infill, which didn't help, but it broke when i dropped my Mad Bull 3ft onto the floor onto all 4 wheels, right across the suspension links on the tower. My layers were vertical, not horizontal like yours which didn't help, but I did think that if I did this again I'd use a bolt from the other side and use a screw on ball (and I'd redesign the model to add a bit more meat around them). For the time that it did work, it did seem like a great mod though :-)
  6. Roll cage finish is really effective...do you have more info on exactly what paint you used?
  7. The diffs are often discussed as a weak point. Search for TT02B diffs, such as this thread In my TT02B I have a brushless system on LiPo with an ally motor mount, speed gears and DF02 diffs and it gives a decent turn of speed and has been reliable/runs without overheating. The ally steering is also worth doing to as it removes the slop. I don't know that I'd bother with adjustable turnbuckles.
  8. This is cool...I've been looking at 3D printer firmware in Arduino recently with the ability to turn things on and off. If you want to share this earlier, outside of GitHub then I'm happy to see if I can help make it more generic...I think you've done all the hard work, adding some structure should be dead easy! PM me if you want to go this way, dead happy to help the community as well as for my own reasons.
  9. Amazing thread! I have a breadboard on my desk hooked up to an Arduino Nano and a receiver. I had thought I'd use it as a bridge between getting signals in and doing some attenuation of the throttle to slow things down for my little boy. I think I got as far as causing a servo to move all the way, or not at all then moved on to something else. If it's not rude, do you want to share your code please? I'd love a play (or even to contribute - we could build a library on GitHub or something) Now I have gotten my boys ride on car hooked up to an Arduino with some lights, and a siren and faux engine starting noise. Can definitely help you here - you're right in that you need an SD card, and a little MP3 module that you can ping commands at. All easy stuff when you find the right one. The problem comes with things like ongoing engine noises where you're expecting to vary the sound by input (or speed or whatever). Re-sampling or adjusting the sound isn't something that you can do on the cheap MP3 modules...I've not found a way of doing this yet - maybe at this point you're into a Pi0, with one of those small amp boards.
  10. Dremel with sanding drums on slow or even the grinding stone bits. I use a full size metal file for long straight runs and a selection of needle files for detail. Then finish with some fine sandpaper just to get rid of any fuzzies. I spend ages doing this tho......sigh
  11. I'm just getting into 3d printing at the moment. I did a dual wishbone conversion for the Mad Bull. For me it failed along a layer boundary where the shock was screwed into the upright. Point is that orientation of the print matters as much as the infill. I'm gonna get around to printing some more things out (for pennies 😀) and see if I can make them stronger Amazing technology though, has so much potential
  12. This is great advice. I went too over the top with brushless in my Lunchie and ended up making it too much of a handful. I dialled it back to something more suited to the chassis and it's been brilliant fun ever since. Also stock gearbox with no problems and lots of abuse.
  13. I have a half finished one of these. The articulation is a bit limited but it's a brilliant bit of 3D design and printing and the WW2 body fits on it just lovely. Totally recommend this route if you can find the Losi bits
  14. Depends on the job - I like melting sprues into holes with a soldering iron to fill them and then smoothing them over with Isopon P38. I then tend to put a coat of primer on and address small issues with a finishing putty.
  15. I've used t-maxx shocks, but am now on the gmade piggyback shocks. In hindsight the t-maxx shocks (and springs) were fine, I didn't get much of an improvement with the gmades.
  16. That's properly good work...I also love that mog!
  17. I've just finished an M06 build with a lot of Yeah Racing ally and Tamiya carbon, and it was a lovely build - felt more like a real car than a toy car I did shim lots of it up to make it all tight but the quality was ok and it ran nicely. I've also done an HPI on road car with some GPM bits and again that was all nice and ran well. I used it as a drift car and the stiffness seemed to work really well there (at least for me) For off road, I did a partial ally/steel build of a TT02B, mainly just strengthening the drive train so I could use brushless and tightening the steering. I avoided doing the arms because I wanted to retain the flex to help absorb the shocks as it was jumping and crashing.
  18. I've gone 4wd, 4ws and it's a capable truck and a really fun build. Before I did, the 2wd was just plain fun. I have a Monster Beetle now to do that job. Don't know that there is a right answer to your question that's not "get two trucks"
  19. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232618056492 i noticed there were a load of these on the bay. Not tried it, but 100 is definitely too much for these things now
  20. I've recently fixed a cracked freezer drawer and a cracked washing machine door with JB Plasticweld https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Weld-Plastic-Syringe/dp/B009EU5ZMK and some fine glass fibre matting. I score the surface up, spread the epoxy on the surface being fixed, then push the glass fibre matting onto it. I then cover another piece of matting with epoxy and push that over the top. I've found it better than using plasticard where there surface is uneven as you can push it into place and it doesn't resist/spring back. The freezer drawer incorporated a piece of aluminium around the handle to fully strengthen it and everything seemed to stick together well. I've repaired cracked bodies using a similar approach, only with proper fibre glass resin rather than plasticweld, but I'm thinking that plasticweld adheres to the plastic surface better rather than just hardening up the glass fibre. I've found plastic cement https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-87003-Cement-40ml-Toy-transparent/dp/B000RLWAN2/ref=pd_sim_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SBKGZQQ9W7VW2WF2XS7W to be lacking strength wise and avoid using it for any kind of stressed pieces.
  21. I bought a complete gearbox for a WW2 for my Blackfoot 3 conversion. You can get just the box casing too easy enough. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292404870299 or https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263417842494
  22. https://imgur.com/a/QFmE2 I asked the same question about alternative rims some time back. I landed on HPI Classic King wheels for the shelf and Blackfoot 3 wheels for running. I also have a set of HPI Superstar MT wheels for a Monster Beetle project. The Classic King wheels need to be about 3mm more offset - if these were runners I'd look for an extension solution. The Superstars seem to fit nice but I've not run them on the truck (work fine on the Beetle). From memory these wheels come in different offsets...the Tamiya wheels are very deep, and you need to get the closest to that to make these work. For tyres, I've stuck with the Blackfoot 3/Monster Beetle tyres, and a set of Blackfoot tyres for the shelf. I'm happy with the Blackfoot 3 tyres for bashing, but if you find something better, post it up! Thanks for the hint about moving my problem forward...that's some clever thinking. I reckon it's worth doing the rubber band thing anyway.
  23. I use a tamiya high torque servo saver for this beast, works lovely.
  24. I can't help with the solution, but I've had this with my 4x4x4 build of this truck with double brushless. Everything has been tight when I've checked it and I've not been able to work out how to make it happen reliably...watching this thread with interest
  25. I love this chassis, had a few in buggy and car configurations. I tried to do a proper off-road one, including putting a 55T motor with a much smaller pinion to keep things cool, and Lunchbox sized wheels. In the end I just transplanted all the bits to a WT-01 chassis as that's designed for big wheels and has some nice long travel suspension tower options.
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