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About drakos

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  1. i dont think the gears are a direct swap because of the larger spur gear. think the casting of the box is different even though it looks quite similair an option would be to use the entire gear box from a bear hawk and shave off the arm holders and drill holes for the yellow bits. but if the bearhawk 50t diff gear has the same pitch i should fit the falcon with the Original spur
  2. i'm looking for a closed diff for my falcon because a ball diff just isn't a possibility. from what i've found with a lot of searching (and counting the falcon) ; falcon diff is 50 teeth and driven by a 50/17 spur bear hawk is 50 teeth diff, but driven by a 20/48 spur blitzer has a 51 teeth and driven by a 50/19 spur (to account for bigger wheels) the question, can anyone verify this? and is the pitch the same? event though the housing looks the same i'm not in the assumption that it is a direct fit but; that would mean that i possibly could get a closed bearhawk diff in the falcon with some modifing. and if that is the case; the blitzer diff could possibly be made to fit with a ff01 50/16 spur? (got a ff01 here and pitch looks the same at first site)
  3. thanks for the reply, kind off already kew the outcome of the question but was worth the try. made tires fit in the past but those were for crawlers, on soft buggy tires the glue probably give's a hard spot that is even worse for handling than the rock hard stock tires i wil take the advise and swap to a bit more modern size wheels. any tips on what to go for that can be equipt with decent aftermarket tires? 1.9 or 2.0 have my preference, tried 2.2 but that just looks wrong to me.
  4. got my "new" falcon in house but the tires are dry rotten and hard as can be. measured the rims and they are around 1.75inch at the beat front and rear? correct? what tire alternatives are out there? and what cars use the same size? (for reference for others with the same size wheels) found for the rear jconceps 1.7. will these fit? and the jconcept 1.9 ribbed for the front? (to big but maybe they stretch a litlle on 1.9) really want to stick with the stock wheels and rather make tires fit than change to a decent size wheel.
  5. thanks, this are the reply's i can work with i can handle and even appreciate critisism as long as it is substantiated. the more people tell me it can't be done or it is a bad plan the more i'm driven to prove them wrong (i'm not afraid to admid my defeat if it doesn't work out, as long as i had fun trying) to clear a few thing up, making it competive means in my case to run with friend and other hobby drivers at the local track for friendly races. i think i wasn't clear enough that my ambition isn't to enter pro competitions (and even if i do, don't think for a minute that i won't finish last,just hoping that i finish the race without breaking something ) how far i want to take the chassis never changed, but because of the negative reactions i needed to give more info on my plans (and skills) to prove/defent my ambitions far before it was at order. also i don't think i need to make a totaly different looking car of it to acomplish good performance gains. @mokei; i need to start somewhere, so the tires are the first thing i need to adress before i can even test it, no point in buying stock tires as i know that those aren't up to the task. next thing are the known problems like the axles and weak front end just because i don't want to break it at the first run after that i'll make a few testruns for a baseline laptime and get a good impression of things that i can improve on (and video's to review handling) @markbt73; thanks for the detailed progress explanation and problem's i'm gonna run into. the track is real dirt/sand and a few jump's.... quite technical instead of high speed and only intended to be a spectacle to watch.
  6. Thanks for the tips, haven't driven it, car is still in transit. Reason why i start with questions about the tires is that the car hasn't driven in 10 years so the tires are dry rotten. I've read somewhere that the dt02 cups fit the diff but are a bit shorter? so if the torps accept normal dogbones that is a better starting point. for the universals i'll take a random set and weld it to lenght followed by a spin on the lathe.
  7. thanks for the reply's.. except for the people who are telling me that it won't work or is a bad plan. it is not the question if it is a good idea. but asking advise on how how i can accomplish it. i've got modern cars that are much more competive,faster.stronger etc. but those are half the fun to drive (and i'm more of a builder than a driver anyway). so i'm not going to defend my plans anymore, i chosen this car out of nostalgia and because it is a chalenge and because it isn't a Obvious choise. i know it never gonna win any races but that is not the point of this build. i want to see how far i can take this litlle car to give modern cars a run for there money. as for the changes i'm willing to make.. as much as needed without losing the charm and look of a vintage car. (pintopower's hornet is a good example of how far i want to take it if needed) i told i'm thinking of making a new cf tub (or go to cf dual deck chassis like the mantaray) i've got the equipment and knowledge to remake and redesign every part on the car, only thing that i'm not to familair with is the effect on changes to the geomitry. for example; if i need to build new rear arm to improve strenght or give it a degree more camber i can and will do it, so now the questions, what kind of front tires do i need for dry dirt to lightmuddy tracks with tight corners? ribbed or spiked? and is there an better choise than proline? and the thorp drive cups, do they take newer tamiya dogbones or are they a different size? or do i need to go with df02 drive cups? (wil make custom lenght universals for the outside) @iluvmud; thanks for the heads up on the adapters, didn't know that one. will look into newer style hexes or remakeing the adapters.
  8. tamiya has got quite a hard compount to prevent stripping off the spikes on tarmac, proline or shumacher tends to be a lot softer Was thinking of proline spiked rear and ribbed for the front? Or should is go for spiked fronts to? Tire diameter at the rear depents on the motor and gearing. because off the limited gear options i possibly need to go bigger indeed to compensate
  9. starting with a other car is missing the point. the falcon is nostalgia for me (or traumatic ,my dad never wanted to buy it for me ) the other reason to start with a falcon is the the real vintage/accient look of it and strange rear suspension.. most younger drivers never seen one because it is never been rereleased. just to start off, what tires are best for dirt/shortcourse tracks? want to start with te most grippy tires i can find and then try to solve flipping over on tight corners with geomitry and suspension changes. do i need to stick with the ribbed front tires or go spiked? (or spiked/ribbed?) the rear problably i will stick with spikes, any brand/type tips?
  10. @pintopower, your car is exactly the reason why i started this project, and main ispiration.. amazing work As for the front end, was thinking of duplicating some parts from aluminum with the lathe.main concern with this is the weight. The braces and skidplate will be made from cf sheet, and even playing with the idea of copying the tub in carbon fiber (never done anything like that but how hard can it be compaired with polyester molding? ) The biggest problems for me to solve are the suspension and geometry of chassis. just not that familiar with that stuff.
  11. the reason i choose the falcon is that i Always wanted that car when i was young wil look into the bear hawk suspension but i think that with some clever upgrades i can make the Original falcon front end much better. i wanna show the youngsters that with some "period correct" homebrew upgrades i can give them a run for the money against there modern cars. ( i know it probably gonna cost more than a traxxas but don't tell them that )
  12. hi, not new to the hobby or site but first post on this forum. i recently aquired a falcon and was planning to make it a bit more competitive against the newer (stock) buggy's and entry traxxas models etc a the local off road track so need some help on what to do with the suspension,engine and weight stuf? -offcourse the first thing to do is change the dogbones -was planning on some custom cf braces and front skitplate to stiffen up the chassis and possibly build a cf chassis. (not sure how much weight i need to lose) -suspension need to be changed with some modern dual rate shocks still need to decide what engine i'm gonna run, got a sport tuned laying around somewhere but was thinking to go hotter. how fast can i go without shattering the gearbox? and what brushed engine is best? any other tips? do's and dont's? what tires do i need to run? will post some pic's as soon as i got delivered and update the progress
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