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About max69vk

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  • Birthday 07/25/1978

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    Kingston, Surrey

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  1. Swap the rear arms with ones from a TA01 & flip them so they sweep in the opposite way to the TA02’s you will have taken off - this will give you the ‘S’ short part of the conversion. The ‘W’ Wide part is created by the offset & width of the rear wheels used. edit: ignore the ‘S’ part, just notice you only want the width 👍🏼
  2. I think the nearest thing we have to vin numbers on RC are the original moulded info on the body & chassis tub (RCC xxxxx) etc, & other than a couple of materials that were changed to alternatives on newer models there really is no other way to differentiate original to replaced parts, or rere vehicles. Pretty much the same with vintage 1:1 vehicles, you wouldn't expect a perfect leather interior on a 50+ year old car, yet there's plenty of them about still in immaculate condition & nobody bats an eyelid. Maybe it should just be accepted that parts will wear, break, & will in turn need to be replaced at some point on any model whether it be 10 days after it was built, or 10 years - As long as the original essence of the car is still there, enjoy it
  3. Saw this online, so some people must already have them to modify
  4. Lots more stuff in the post, cars, chassis, parts etc. The Best Buy has to be this though which came in a job lot of WW figures, @IBIFTKH does the date stamp make it vintage?! 😂
  5. @netsmithUK Just noticed that the ‘Build tips & techniques’ section is now appearing under the ‘Sales & trades’ section as a sub-forum. Not a biggie but thought you might want to know.
  6. Contacta glue is more than sufficient, I’ve used it on a couple of Blitzers for the same purpose, the body itself gave up the ghost before the glue joint after a heavy front end smash.
  7. Same wheels, different colour, you can also get them in fluorescent yellow from the Stadium thunder.
  8. CVA super mini with the long lower eyelet I believe - #54753
  9. I tried the tight*ss option and dropped in a couple of shims between the servo & the chassis from the top, it seems to works well though I have lost them couple of times!
  10. Thanks for the offer, you’re nice & local too. I’ll drop you a PM 😊
  11. Here you go... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264378645946 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392345609209
  12. Jimmy body sets are still fairly readily available on ebay from Japan & for decent money too. I’ve tried a WW2 body On a GF01 but I did have a few clearance issues (probably as I like to sit my bodies low on the chassis), it may also be a reason they use lexan bodies on the GF01 as there are no issues with them.
  13. It’s a chemical reaction with the simple green that heavily dull the finish, though at this stage you might as well paint the gearbox whatever colour you want, just make sure you use etch primer if you decide to change the colour or it will easily come off.
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