max69vk

Totally agree with you here. I haven't bought a new kit in over 25 years, something just feels so much more satisfying about giving an used/abused model new life!

Got myself a true loft find M04, the dust is like concrete!

Ignore - This literally just ended and bee replaced with 10% off on minimum £50 spend

If you want to stick with Tamiya then CVA mini shocks are the ones to go for, there are plenty of cheaper options out there though.

I'm hazarding a guess you are still using the original kit supplied pogo-stick dampers? A set of oil filled dampers would make a massive difference to the way front is cushioned when it lands back down, adding more rubber tube to the damper will just limit the damper stroke to the point of them not doing anything at all. Most cheapo damper sets come with quite hard springs as standard so this will also add a bit of resistance to bottoming out.

Household Bleach! Cover the car in a couple of sheets of kitchen roll then drench it all in bleach & leave it to sit for half an hour (the kitchen roll helps retain the bleach & keep the shell wet). After 30 mins remove the kitchen roll & scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the stubborn bits of chrome. Then rinse with water. Done this on loads of chrome parts & it works really well 👍🏼

PM sent 👍🏼

Started work on the roughest QD shell I’ve ever owned. Before & after pics below, and yes the red patches in the 1st pic are where the previous owner painted around the decals 😳 Just a crack in roof & rear wing to repair now, along with multiple deep scores in the shell.

My thoughts/experiences on this are quite mixed; Selling separately will definitely net you more return, but I've not really seen any proof separating the parts up will help you sell easier, + it means a lot more wrapping/packing & trips to the post office which is something a lot of people (including myself) didn't factor in. As re-re's are aimed at a bit of nostalgia &/or getting people into RC there are probably more people looking to buy a car ready to go than there are looking to buy a rolling chassis & then source all of the extra parts to get them going. All that being said, a certain online auction site is is doing another of there limited time promos where you only pay £1 per item you sell (no matter what it sells for), so you can try listing either way & see what works for you!

Does anyone know if spare body parts were ever made available for the Quick Drive models? I've got a QD Beetle whish is missing it's headlights - Only a small detail but its driving me mad trying to find replacements - I'm even considering using a pair from an M-series Beetle despite not actually knowing if they are the right size or not. I would have thought that with the release of the GF01 Beetle, spares would be available, but no dice apparently

Lightly rub the wheels down with 2000 grit wet & dry, or use a scotch/Brillo pad to rough up the surface & give the paint something to grip to. 1st 2 coats should only be a light dusting & you should leave at least 5 mins dry time in between each coat, 3rd coat go heavier with the paint but don’t aim for total coverage (you’ll most likely get runs), leave this coat at least 20 mins to ‘flash off’ then hit them with a final 4th coat to get total coverage. Allow 24hrs to fully cure/harden before even attempting to put tyres anywhere near them 👍🏼

as Mentioned 100% that is Silicone contamination, the thing to remember is that no matter how much you clean the body before you spray if the silcone is in the air/environment you're spraying in it will be attracted to the plastic body due to static charges.

Pretty sure the posts are still plastic its just the cross member piece that's alloy - You'd be better off buying something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10-RC-Car-Buggy-Truck-Alloy-Body-Posts-x4-silver-alloy/323779746187?hash=item4b62c6d98b:g:MB4AAOSw0wRaKpjI

Shame it’s such a short clip, but it’s not everyday you see a real life Sandscorcher & FAV going toe to toe! 😎

Exactly this, also the method used to remove the residue can be critical, I always use a brush to work the remover & then use a lot of washing up liquid to remove the residue - here’s a shell I did last week using this exact method, it took me 30 minutes;

All of this is why I don’t use Royal Mail any more, but rather use Hermes. The service is a lot cheaper especially for parcels, but also they geo-tag the location at the point of delivery/signature which when combined with the option to ‘only deliver to the addressee’ gives me pretty much 100% peace of mind. Also the only time I ever sent something by them & it got damaged, I was refunded within 48hrs for the entire item rather than just the part itself (they cracked the chassis on a Nissan King Cab), when similar happened with RM it went on for months & even with insurance they wouldn’t cover the full cost of replacing the broken parts.

The TA02S would also give you perfect wheelbase & 4wd for your conversion.

They’re rare but they’re out there... Of the 40+ bumper parts I’ve had over the years only 2 have this spelling error

Looks like some people have already started taking their SW01 to the mod shop!

Decided to try out my new Gelly roll pens, bearing in mind these are original well worn 30+ yr old tyres I thought they still turned out quite well -

Swap the rear arms with ones from a TA01 & flip them so they sweep in the opposite way to the TA02’s you will have taken off - this will give you the ‘S’ short part of the conversion. The ‘W’ Wide part is created by the offset & width of the rear wheels used. edit: ignore the ‘S’ part, just notice you only want the width 👍🏼

I think the nearest thing we have to vin numbers on RC are the original moulded info on the body & chassis tub (RCC xxxxx) etc, & other than a couple of materials that were changed to alternatives on newer models there really is no other way to differentiate original to replaced parts, or rere vehicles. Pretty much the same with vintage 1:1 vehicles, you wouldn't expect a perfect leather interior on a 50+ year old car, yet there's plenty of them about still in immaculate condition & nobody bats an eyelid. Maybe it should just be accepted that parts will wear, break, & will in turn need to be replaced at some point on any model whether it be 10 days after it was built, or 10 years - As long as the original essence of the car is still there, enjoy it

Saw this online, so some people must already have them to modify

Lots more stuff in the post, cars, chassis, parts etc. The Best Buy has to be this though which came in a job lot of WW figures, @IBIFTKH does the date stamp make it vintage?! 😂

Siedel?