graemevw

If 75 cars came up for sale at 1/4 of their value id be buying them! I dont think the market would be too small, id guess a fair few collectors out there could afford the purchase. They would no doubt keep some and sell the rest on. I think if this is a serious concern for you then you need to make a list of what you have, what each car is worth with very conservative lower prices, then a total of how much less it would probably make sold as a lot. Then anyone else in the future at least doesnt have to do loads of research. 75 cars may well be better split into maybe 4 or 5 lots.

Love it! If it were mine id fit a wing, but leave it clear with maybe a decal or two.

😎😎😎 Thanks, i think this will be the way to go. Rear shock mounts are stopping my other idea from working.

Great! Thanks its running camber links already. If my idea of an adjustable set up wont work ill see about getting those printed.

Outer face to upper hole 32.5mm Outer face to bottom hole 22.5 Centre of axle to bottom hole 11mm Upper hole to bottom hole 35mm Thats as accurately as i can measure. However, i had another idea last night that i may be able to do with stuff on hand. Let me try that first before you spend time redesigning something thanks.

I have a lathe, spacers are no issue 🙂, just leave width as it is. Ill get the other dimensions in a bit, thanks.

Inner pin to outer pin is 67mm centre to centre. Outer hinge pin to outer face of rear upright is 23mm. Opening width in outer of rear arm is 23.5mm but differences there are easily overcome.

What distance so you need to know? Do you mean inner arm pivot to axle pin?

Ive been thinking of adding some rear toe and anti squat to my blitzer chassis. Im not familiar with dt chassis though, any idea what the chance might be of making these dt rear uprights work on the blitzer chassis?

Yeah, it was at the last tamiya junkies meet. I tried 2 other cars with the same receivers and they were fine, just the egress that was playing up. I tried running it up a d down the field next to the barn and it was going the same. When i can go out again ill try it somewhere else, see if its always a distance thing or if it was that area. Ill try re binding it too but ill probably swap that rx into a car that will only see garden use. Just wanted to see if there could be any other reasons for it happening rather than an rx fault. I have a 6 channel rx which is 2A in my lunchbox. Maybe ill swap that one into it. Is the 2a system more reliable then? Ill buy those in future if so, but i have maybe 12 3gre and they are all fine.

Stadium thunder is now finished, electrics installed, rx bountd to tx and model name in the transmitter 😎 Stadium thunder but with blitzer beetle gearbox and front end parts, and the following schumacher parts, procat front shocks, pro vari shock rear shocks, turnbuckles and ball joints, procat steering, vee 2 rear tyres, narrowed stagger rib front tyres, home made front stabilizer, home made servo mount, unknown vintage servo (its a futaba of some kind and it seems quick), 1060 esc, 18x2 trinity motor, 11t pinion (fitted using the wrong mounting holes 😂). Cant find a way to get a 12t pinion in it so if 11, 13 and 15 dont work ill make a motor mount of some kind. Cant wait to try it!

Was walkable for me as a kid, just remember loads of bodies hanging up. Glad to here it's still there in some form.

A while back i took my egress to the track along with a few other cars. I have the same receivers in all, flysky gr3e. All run from the same transmitter on the same car batteries. I put new tx batteries in just in case but made no difference. The egress has a 10.5t speed passion and a 10bl120. I was losing signal on the far corner of the track but not 100%, it would just get sketchy and laggy. Sometimes deciding not to steer, or to not throttle off etc. None of the other cars did this. I tried moving the aerial but it routs past the esc. I assumed the rx must just be faulty but could there be any other cause? Its 100% fine untill it gets to maybe 50m away (far right corner of robin hoods carpet track).

Old thread, but if your from that area, do you remember the rc shop on brentwood road in romford?

Not really got big power, its a 18x2 with an 11t pinion. Its a nice motor though and if it lands on the rear after a bad jump that motor is taking the hit! I looked at the falcon manual, but couldnt really tell. Ill go back to looking at something home made then

Nearly finished my stadium thunder. Ive put my trinity monster horsepower motor in it and it looks a little vulnerable hanging back there. Has anyone done anything to protect the motor? I was going to see if i could make something but just had a thought, would the falcon motor cage fit? How resilient are the falcon B parts?

The universals look a different style to the originals.

I drilled the top mount on the c hub out to 3mm and held the top arm ball on with a bolt. Hopefully it will reduce its tendency to crack.

I never built it standard so cant judge how much its improved, but as a steering system it works well. It has no servo saver as ive not driven it, that horn was on that servo already. Ill probably try it without one and if it strips the servo ill add one. Ive no idea what this servo is anyway, got a few with a car i bought. They are 30 year old futabas but have had new cases and gears fitted so no model name on them anymore. Dont think they are anything special though.

Hopefully this shows it well enough. I made a plate to mount the cranks to, which is then bolted to the upper piece. I then made a cross plate that puts the ball ends inline with the bottom arm pivots. Took a few little nips and tucks to the pieces i made to get it all into such a tight spot. Had to slightly round off the sharp edge on the chassis opening too to get a decent amount of steering lock.

Ok, ill finish my tea and take the front end apart. Its hard to get pics when in one piece as its all hidden.

Finished painting the stadium thunder. Tried for something old school.

Ill take some more pics later. I used schumacher parts as i had them and they are small. I used piano wire for the bar, 1.6mm. I wanted to mount it like the dt03 one but the steering arms were in the way and it didnt look like i could make it work.

The front ball studs only just clear the tyres.

I made a front anti roll bar for mine but havent driven it yet so dont know if it helps. I also fitted different shocks. I didnt build the kit shocks but i assume the ones i fitted will be softer sprung so it may benefit more from the stabilizer bar.