whahooo

Thanks for your suggestions! I will try Constructionsilicone. There are no Tabs on the Underside.

Sadly they do not ship the Decals to austria @87lc2 Are there other companys who offer Bigfoot #9 Decals? How did you mount the Sunshade to the roof??

Double sided tape came to my mind, but im afraid that the Paint would flake off.... Silicone would be an option, but i think it wouldnt stick enough...

Hello, i just got my Ford Body cutted, painted in Blue and backed with black. I put a Vinylsheet on the Bed that gives the Body a more scalish look. I'm quite happy with the outcome, because i hate Lexan. I always get Paint under the Masks ect. So now i have to glue the Bodyparts tho the Body. I do not have shoegoo. One tiny Bottle costs abut 25 Bucks shipped..... and there are a lot of different shoegoos, i wouldn't know what to buy... Is there a other glue that i can use?

Hello, i saw just a youtube Clip where someone is using airfilled tires. I know the Sand Scorcher Tires are somewhat semi pumped or should i say "Airtrapped" and i like the idea. But is anyone using Air instead of foams? I thought Foams are the "RC Way" especially on offroad. The only bad thing is that Foam can soak in Water and get mouldy and brittle.... Does using air make any sense? Could we use tubes inside the tires??

I also use Traxxas Bigbore Shocks. They are well made and work peretty good. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=135986&id=41592

Hello again. i installed the Soundmodule in my TL01 Toyota Ceilca. I use Tamiyaadaptor, so the Soundmodule is clamped between the Battery and the ESC. Sadly the Module works only for about 30 Seconds or until i pull the Trigger for full Throttle.... i use normal 7,2 Volt NiMh packs. With the 8,4 Volt Pack in my Clodbuster the soundmodule was cutting off after a few seconds, so i wasn`t able to program it for my clod because i didn`t heared the full sentence of the instructions. In my Ceilica the programming worked fine, the indoor testing worked fine, but the driving in the wild leads to cutting off the sound.... I would be happy to have a working Soundmodule. Even it`s the horn i really want to have. I would love to have a "beep beep" Sound for my Scorcher or a "dixie horn" for my Clod. Is there anything i could try to get that Soundmodule working? PS: It´s kinda funny that the 8,4 Volt Nimh makes more Problems than the 7,2 Volt Nimh. But the Manual says "Inputvoltage: 6,5 - 16,8 2s-4s lipo"

I do not own any Brushless Systems, because i don`t need much Speed. So i don`t have any expierience with them. BUT in youtube Videos the brushless Motors seem so sound awful ^^ I know thats the last reason to choose a Motor for a Toycar, but it seems that the Brushlessmotors sound very cold and metalic. They remember me of a Dentisttool.... The brushed Motors sound like they schould sound. I think there are really 2 reasons for brushed Motors: 1.) they are cheap 2.) Crawlers - a brushed Motor can get wet, you can drive them underwarter if you want and a 55t Motor ore something like that is easily controllable. I dont know if there are slow brushless Systems.

Isn't this a hoax? The news are from the daily mail, isn't that a newspaper like the sun?

Today i`ve learned how to post Youtube Videos without showing my Account. Here is a little presentation of that WLtoys K969 Drift Car with an BBurago Body on it. I glued Legobrickt to the Body and to the Chassis.

How are your shocks? I have a similar Setup with 8 very soft 120mm Shocks and i got to much Bodyroll while Cornering, so i hade to install Swaybars.

Good to know that this is a RC Forum

I didn`t ever had a Problem with the Revell or Humbrol Email Colors. But the Spraypaints...... no i do not have a good picture of them....

I have installed the Electronics, a Flysky Receiver, a SuperStock BZ and a Carson servo in Blue. At some Point i will probably take out the inner Spacers of the Shocks, because i do not ses the poit of it rater than limiting the Shock Traven (that is not a good thing for a offroad/road vehicle). I had biiiiig Troubles with the Painting of the Body. I`ve ordered a PS Paint instead of a TS Paint, so i used a revellpaint from my local Hobbyshop. BIG MISTAKE I Start with my Story: At first, i painted in the Basement of the house i live in with 15 other Flats. The Basement was filled with Dust and i realized it just after priming the Body because you could see a lot of fibers on the Primer, but i could wipe/rub them of with a cloth. The first 2 Coats seem to work good and i hat a nearly dustfree shiny Finish on my Body while using the Revell Spray Paint. After checking the Body after one hour, i rested the Body on a Bike saddle to just only touch the Body from the inside (with the saddle) and the Body fell into the dusty dirty floor!! Surprisingly the Paint was hard enough to not let the Dust stick to it, but i got a few scratches (that will be weathered i think). But i hated the Painting of it already I thought i do a good thick final Layer to have all of the Body with a super shiny Finish (because some Spots were matt). So i let the Body dry for about a half Day and started to put a thick final Layer on the Body. Of course i got some running Paint.... argh!! But hey, i`ve didn`t painted a Body in a log time and maybe i put a little bit of weathering over it... So, after Painting the Body and let it dry for a Day, i checked it and was veeeeery upset!! All of the Paint did "crackle" and were matt. So i tried to polish it with some "caravan polishingpaste" and it did work a little bit. So, then i started with some Detailing. I´m very bad at Painting, here is how it went: I did a few black Drops in the Front of the Car. While Painting the toothpick to stir the paint was stuck to my paintbrush and i didnt realized it when i lifted the brush.... I just realized it when the whole sticky blach toothpick fell on the roof I picked it up, wiped the Paint away and used that caravan polishing/cleaning cream to remove the paint, it went ok i guess. (i was really really messy and a lot of black paint).... So, i`ve painted the Window Rubbers and see what i`ve got: the Tamiya Tape pulled the Paint of the Car!!!!! owww, how i was raging! i hated that revellpaint! the Paint was somehow not only crackled up, not sticking, it felt soft, matt and a little bit sticky, also it smelled like paint..... Tamiyapaints get hard after one day, and they do not smell like that... Ok, i thought i will let it dry for another day and start to sticker it up. On the right side of the Car i got the decals on the wrong place, so the red Stripe is to less visible and when you look at the Front you see that they are not centered.... I did try to remove the sticker and center it up, but .... ....BUT the Paint got loose while doing it I thought i get insane..... Do you see it? i just did use the wrong alignmentedge of the Sticker to center it..... PS: The Paint still smells and feel sticky. I painted the final Coat on Monday, so that was 4 days ago. I regret to have buyed the Revell Color, next Time i will get Tamiya Color that i used to work with and got a perfet finish all the time. So that is my project, i hope it will entertain a little bit. The Stickers put a little shine on it. A few decals are missing because i tought that i try a little bit fewer Decals on it to get a slim look, but now i think i put some more on it. Yesterday i painted the Iterior and got a perfect finish, the Paint got hard and didn?t smell like Paint, but after cutting, i realized that it flakes off and the Velcro Taped pulled oll of the Paint of, so i need new velcro that sticks directly to the Plastc.

Tamiya Germany is much worse i think About a Year ago i visited my local Hobbyshop to get a few Paits and Parts. I did want so buy some Servos and a new Radio. The Shop said "we are not a RC Shop anymore" i asked why and they said that Time got hard, they concentrate on Plastic Modeling and they have troubles to get Stuff from the RC manufactures because they are just a small Shop..... I said "But Tamiya is a good old fashioned Familybuisness that is concerned about their Customers" - he laughed loud and said that they are the Worst in the buisness. He asked me if i tryed just once to order something from Tamiya Germany by myself. He explained that they never have the Stuff in their warehouses, the shipping takes a lot of time and the comminication is a Pain. He said that he not even tries to order from Tamiya Germany anymore, if he needed things (the Time it was a RC Shop" he ordered elsewhere, either Tamiya Japan, Tamiya USA or at Tamico (as Customer) to get the Parts the Customers want or need. I don`t know how much of that is true and how much was "bad mood", but the last Time i was on the Webpage of Tamiya Germany, it seeed to be last updated years ago The only thing that really shines is the presentation at the Toysfair in Nürnberg. Tamiya Japan has a nice Internet presence, with their Youtubeshow etc. Sadly i don`t understand Japanese....

What is "green slime" for? People use it, but i don`t know what it is for and what is so special about it.....

Yesterday we finished the Chassis. The Cables aren´t tidy because i haven`t to installed the electronics yet. The Radio Gear and the Super Stocker Motor is in my other Home. Also there are all my colors and the Primer, so i couldn`t paint the Body yet...... I´m also not shure how i schould paint it.... Boxart`? the Green/red Colorsheme, Solid Color? I don`t know..... but i think im a Boxartsissy and aren`t brave enough to go another Route. I think the Car is fairly low to the Ground, but high enough for a bit of offroading.. My Lancia Delta sits a little bit higher.

I changed the Eyelets to the short ones, because the Car wan`t nearly able to bottom out. I`m still not convinced to use the spacers at all, but i do not want to demount & open the shocks and fill them up again. So i just use the longer Spacer inside (The Manual suggest to use both, the short and the long Spacer) I don`t use my cars on a particular Surface (i`m not a racer, just a Parkbasher). But i`m more of an offroad kind of guy. So all of my Cars are Buggies or Monstertrucks and all of my Streetcars are Rallycars. I want to use my Cars in bumpy grass, Parks, etc. but i also use all of my Cars on Tarmac if they do not have spiky tires that will get damaged. My Lancia037 should be an offroad vehicle that bring onroad fun with it. (Maybe i have to change the tires to Rallyblocks to get any traction at all on dusty roads) Thanks for alll your answers! I still have one question: What is "green Slime" for? Some guys say they use it on every shock. But i don`t know what that Slime is for..... On Tamiya CVAs, i never get any leakages, on cheap shocks the do not stop them from leaking. Also i didn`t get more "smoothnes" out of the shocks. (But i`m not a racer, i just have my Cars for fun)

I have a question about my Lancia 037 CVAs: I`m not shure about the Dampers..... The Manual says to use the 1 Hole Piston, the short Eyelet and 2 Spacers..... I think it is essentiel to have a lot of travel for a Rallycar, so i used the t hole Piston, the longer eyelet and just the longer Spacer (ichoosed the longer Spaver because i thought so i can make up for the longer Eyelet....) My natural way was to use 3 hole Pistons allaround, no Spacers and the long Eyelets. I think i use 3 Hole Pistons and long Eyelets on my TL01 Rally Cars.... I only used the 2 Hole Pistons becaus the Manual said i should use 1 Hole Pistons and MAtteo from Youtube uses 2 Holes in the Front and 1 in the Back. Matteo also used 2 Spacers.... so i thougtmabe it would be a good idea to use just one Spaver (the longer one) in this build. What would you suggest?

Today we`ve build the Gearboxes: I`m not shure about the Dampers..... The Manual says to use the 1 Hole Piston, the short Eyelet and 2 Spacers..... I think it is essentiel to have a lot of travel for a Rallycar, so i used the t hole Piston, the longer eyelet and just the longer Spacer (ichoosed the longer Spaver because i thought so i can make up for the longer Eyelet....) I`ve putted the Shocks on and checked the Travel. I think the Travel isn`t right at all.... Fully compressed the Arms are just horizontal, i would like to have a little bit of negative travel..... So my dear Tamiyaclub, what do you think? Should i put the shorter eyelets on? Or, as i prefer remove the inner Spacers in the schocks? (i´ve never used Spacers in the shocks) OR should i use the shorter Spacers? On Youtube Matteo used both Spacers... I´m not exactly shure why you need Spacers anyway..... EDIT: I changed the Eyelets to the short ones, because the Car wan`t nearly able to bottom out. I`m still not convinced to use the spacers at all, but i do not want to demount & open the shocks and fill them up again.

Today my Lancia 037 arrived. It is the perfect Thing to to, because for the next 14 Days i`m at home with my daugter because her kindergartenteacer is sick with covid. So lets Start, as always, we did the Tires, that is the most fun of the build. And i`m shure you all know you have to do the most fun Part first. Never leave the best Part to the end I just did buid a Ball Diff once (Sand Scorcher), so the diff is a really hard task for me..... I´m not a friend of child labour, but i think for dte Ball Diff a little Help is ok. (My fingeres are to fat ) Now the Tiny Balls, i was shure to loose at least 2 Balls, but somehow i`ve managed to loose just one of them. My daughter invented a very special tecnique to hold all the parts safe in the bag Here je tried to use tweezers, is was a success. I screwed it all togehter, end of day one i think. PS: i didn`t knew how tight the Diff should be, so i tighten it up "very hard" for my feeling. I know that you have to brake them in, but do you have to disasamble the whole Thing? To get the Diff out you have to remove the Dogbines etc. The Sand Scorcher Diff could be tighten up by putting an allen key into a Slot of the Diff and turning the Wheel on the opposite site, so you can tighten it "on the go". Is there a secret trick for the Lancia??

I will try to make a List: (You need 3 Components) 2 Dogbones Tamiya Drive Shafts (2 Pcs.), Part No's. 9805551 (19805551 & 4305025 & 50336) Total length 76.5mm. Pin to Pin Length 70mm. 2 Tamiya C-Parts for TL01 WR01 WT0 Tamiya Part no. 10005688 Steeringlinks/ Tie Rods Tamiya Part Number 19805583 or just cut some 3mm threaded rod 3 x 71mm like @J@mes said.

I love the comical Look like the Honda City Turbo 2 or the Pajero, but i don`t like the Handling of them. The Comical Bugys look nice and as seen in the Videos of @HondaHan they perform really well if you widen the Arms and Wheelbase.

Everybody loves his videos Is he a member of TC? It´s alsways nice to kno who the Youtuber behind the Memeber.

I´ve ordered 2 WT01 C-Parts Trees. Now i need to get the right Dogbones. My research says that the Wild Dagger uses 39mm Dogbones, also known as Driveshafts.... So i searched Ebay for 39mm Driveshafts and a lot of Dogbones came up but none of them are 39mm. BUT there are 39mm CVDs and they would be better anyway, especially for my Wild Dagger, because that Chassis is known for loosing the Dogbones in the front beacause of the Steering. https://www.ebay.at/itm/39mm-Drive-Shaft-CVD-Set-fur-Tamiya-53792-TT-01-TT-02-TA04-RC-Model-Auto-Zubehor/143986015972?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item21863c3ee4:g:UD8AAOSwlOZgWYV0&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickk7d4nremBkvNKtcC0ZwqXDHaKntiOiWXhtpBV0UyZdtUAl%2FeUqaroISzDdDzmvKf3gEeXTqtBY5Ms%2BMV15QSfEWtn5f7ehjacUO%2FJT8j6cL5dNFFajap4OIi4rEtqykxdXxowQjS%2BgOiJR5wYJZijYo5svX%2BASGqdwI9juPjBThaGFCDfiCY1DIyKamPTKrLqYJoUdTXnQkYyrEhp32o4IzClHmB3mpjvEGaQ7awX2JtO%2B%2BpV4JxvgReA5XU9dD1nCK81unsB%2BA5h4RTyyxXsOvGK3pkdEmowIzFCdzbQ7RvZs0aFwO0hWENFrUFeSv8l1mydA4uvKX5Z6x97h8zGJHFJ6uuDu0CElLB79e6%2B6%2FP0u3jy%2Fy2MwOhT5C8%2FaZ%2BxuHM8nIoooowATJu3ghG0AvEGi%2FVIUVXKZ2AeS2XMGRFjaOkxp7uhfIer5JGr8AbdqOkZur8drF0PvK3smhy6RYLt%2BXuWdOaZuVK7uWOWDRjNGAzaJu2LY5QfqrHsMFKoGycEXYgoEkyQUYwnN9QNup1id6ZddDhmshmw%2FgyQPKiQb0%2BJK5d0YmPvCxSqtetsI3i3U%2BNWHGv%2B%2FAY%2BKGSoebnILCZw6f%2F5nieGoFrSf1glOsFpMQHCja0rLhimBZwjj%2FJJLL4qqFmmildqtEj1sI2EyHdrnSw1yYLj7NjU8zfJpBoNHLQqAb4W03o%2F%2FLKzNxzFwxfi%2BZm6sL3RX6MLIHXxALWMLFHX00xoE0WWgo8Y3h2buDPYISL6uEWaOKR56SVjZKr4xt%2B4t22xH8HAhg%3D%3D|cksum%3A14398601597271150120462c4c96aa6aab7843388124|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 The CVDs fit TT-01/TT-02/TA04 but would they fit the Wild Dagger and the Comical Hornet with Dagger Arms?? (i think that maybe the outer Drivecups wuld be to short or to long so you can`t fit the Wheels) PS: I still don`t know what track Rods are is it the ssame as Steeringlinks??