whahooo

Ok.... I do not have a Programcard, the old ESC had Dipswitches. Do you know the initial Settings? I use NiMh Batterys and do not want any Low Voltage Cutoff, also i would like to be able to drive in reverse. A Brake between Forward and reverse would be good. What i noticed while testing the Truck in my livingroom: At the Start the Truck is driving forward and reverse. After about one Minute the Truck has troubles to drive in reverse. I Have to hit reverse several times until the Truck drives in reverese, often it does not react at all. Does the ESC need seperate Battery, with my other Clod i had the Problem that the Servos were not reacting after abourt one Minute. I installed a Receiver Battery and now the Servos work just fine.

It is a Hobbywing Dual Motor ESC, i think it is the 880. I just came home from my Holidays, so now i do not have access to my cars. The Manual says i need a programcard to set up the ESC. The old Hobbywing ESC had dipswitches......

I installed the bearings, the Motors, the ESC, the Servos and Servomounts. It was a LOT more Work than i thoughts. I also have to figure out how to set up the Hobbywing ESC. Because the Car dies Not respond really well to the Reverse function.... Ihave to Trigger Reverse afew Times before the Car reacts... Edit: I can't Upload any more Pictures.....

Where do you get them? Edit: i did found some.

Yesterday i painted the Body of the Chevy. It was a Desaster I had running Paint and tried to fix ist with more Paint So now i have to fully disassamble, put bearings in, mount the Servos (need to buy grubscrews ....)& And the Motors, Install the Strechplate, Paint the Wheels, and Finish it Off. The bumper needs some black Tape to finnisch it Off. Where should i get Bodyposts? The polish HPI Shop has Posts to screw on from Scout RC, but the shipping is about 15 Euros, and they do Not have These magnetthingys..... If they had them, i would order them.....

Hello, w would like to see some "shaved" original clodbuster chassis. I use axle mounted Servos, but the clearence between the Gearbox and the original Chassis is quite narrow. For my Bullhead Project i maybe even use shorter shocks, i will try to stretch them with longer rodends, but i do not know where to get them ..... So maybe i have to shave the Chassis. I do not want to ruin the chassis, so i would love to see some pictures of your shaved chassis before.

So, i have almos everything togheter for my Bullhead/Carolina Crusher project. I got 8 Agrios CVAs and they are way better than the Aluminium Dampers. But the Agriosshocks are only 9 cm hole to hole. I do have a Chassis stretchplate, so i need a bit longer Dampers, i would like to use 11cm shocks,.... I asked in the General Forum: But noone answered, so i ask again in the Monstertruck Subforum. Does anyone know the standard thickness of tamiya shafts that are in the CVAs? I need some Rodends that will fit the CVAs and can fit the Balls of the lower shockmounts of the Clodbuster and will raise it about 2cm. I do not want to use Liftplates, because i do not like the Look and i think it will not be as abusable.

Does anyone know the standard thickness of tamiya shafts that are in the CVAs? I`ve got a set of agrios shocks and want to put them in a Clod, but they are only 9cm eye to eye, i want to lenghten them to maybe 11 cm. CVAs are waaaaaay better than my aluminium shocks

Your trucks are always awesome! We really apprechiate having you in our community!

Hello, a nice Member of the club will send me some Agrios shocks. I want to install them on a Clod. The Agrios Schocks are 90mm from what i have found. The Clodbuster Pogos are 100mm I want to archieve 110 or 120 mm..... I do not see the Advantage of a Liftkit, they do not look very good, and i think they will bring a weakpint to the chassis..... Is there a long Eyelet/rodend that fits on the original Tamiya Shock Rod? I want 1-2 cm more Length. All the aluminum Dampers that i have are Garbage, so i will stick to the Tamiya CVAs. Also my Traxxas Shocks seem to be a bit leaky.... I never had (unused) leaky CVAs, they only leak if they are well driven in dirty conditions.

Is there a way to buy them besides the Kit?? I would love to get some Tamiyashocks for my Clod, i do not find some decent cheap shocks, i would love to get 110mm shocks with inner springs.

Ballbearings is always a must. On any Tamiya

I heared that some People lock just the rear diff when they use the 4 wheel Steering Setup to counter that forkliftsteeringeffect.

That is the Servomount designed by @madinventor I still have to ship 2 Sets to him....

Parts arrived, Photos are made: I will try to fit the Parts to my Bullhead that Weekend if i find Time for that.

You are talking about Swaybars and Shockangles..... How do the Angle of the shocks affect the Bodyrolling? I installed "Swaybars" to my Clodbuster because i love soft shocks on the Clod, because the Chassis has no weight at all, but then the Body did started to wobble like a drunken Clown when i was cornering and the Car did not drive straight at all. With the Sway Bars it is kinda sorted, but i i could affect it with shockangles that would be awesome. I love the Looks of Vertical schocks or "V shaped" Shocks. But if the angled shocks give a better performence i would try that...

So, Parts arrived. I will post some Pictures if get some time. But i have a Question: Waht is the advantage of this Battery? It is also a 7,2 Volt Battery.... ...is it only a Gimmik? is it the Weight distribution??l

If the Battery doesnt fit in the normal Batterytray, you have plenty of Options to mount the Battery. Here is a thread

The ESC will work with the Sport Tuned Motor BUT the Clod will not. the rear Motor has to rotate backwards The Sprot tuned Motor is timed, so it will be running faster in the one Direction than in the Other. You will need rebuildabele Motors with adjustable Timing within the Motorlimit of that ESC. The Motorlimit of that ESC is 2 x 25T Motors. So you could get GT tuned Motors and adjust the Timing of the rear Motor. I have them installed, but they aren`t really faster than the stock 27 T Motors..... Most people recommend to use Silvercans and use a 3S Lipo. If you want to use hotter Motors, you need to buy an better ESC like the Hobbywing double Motor ESC an Super Stock Motors.

I did that for my Dagger. Maybe i should put the Firebolts into the Dagger and put the Superstocks into the Bullhead? For some reason my Clod seems to be a bit slow with the GT tuned 25T Motors and a 8,4 Volt NiMh Battery. I did open the rear GT Tuned and reversed the Timing until both Motors were running at the same RPM in the oppostie Directions. But the Clod has plenty of tourqe. When i drive onto a Curb from about 30cm the Clod accelerates good and jumps about 20cm high. But the speed doesn`t get mutch higher after 1,5m - it just reaches Topspeed that is just a bit above felt Walkingspeed. I have to measure the Speed of my Clod. Maybe it is just my Feeling that it is slow, maybe it its slow, maybe the Batteries are bad (Zeee RC), maybe it is because i still use Tamiyaplugs for the ESC and Battery....

Thanks, i will see how the Firebolts will perform. Maybe i will try the Jconcepts 17 Turn Motor in the Future. The Super Stock BZ would be my first Choice, but i think they cost 60 Bucks each....

I also thought they are timed.... Would you recommend rather HPI Firebolts or RC4WD 20 Turn Motors on a 8,4v NiMh Battery?

But Brushless motors are better No maintainence, no brushes, no Problems. They are easy to afford and in most cases the Motors bring better Tourque and RPM. PS: I do not own any Brushless Motors, i don't like Sound of them.....

I bought HPI Firebolts for my Bullject, the Kyoshos are 550 Cans and i don`t know if they would fit a standard Clodchassis. (The Gool RC 23T i ordered 1,5 Years ago from Aliexpress never arrived.) I hope that i get a Speedboost with the Firebolts and a 8,4v NiMh Pack.