whahooo

I know the 5th Shok Mod, i've done this Mod to my Lunchbox, but i didn realize that this could be the Problem of the Drag to the left wen i accalerate. From what i've heard the AMPro Brace functions a little bit better than the 5th Shock Mod. Thanks for the Tip!

Hello, I have Tamiya Hornet with a Sport Tuned Motor and the FAV Tires. When i pull the Throttle (full) the Car turns to the left side, so i have to gently accalerate.... Also the Car is super tipsy wen i try to corner. Maybe the Tires are to grippy? Maybe the Diff doesn`t work like it should an i have to use the Tamiya anti wear Grease? Any Tips how i could improve the Handling? I'm thinking about buying the Brace from AMPro and the Parts for a better independent suspension in the front?

I am running a "tourque tuned Motor" from Tamiya in mine and that Thing is a very good Runner. I havent run a Sport tuned in it because am so pleased with the Torque tuned.

I put both Motors to Zero Timing. I Run it on the dual ESC of Hobbywing Quicrun and both, the Motos and the ESC get really hot after 10 Minutes of running, maybe Motorcoolbodys and a Fan for the ESC woul get better Results. And the Speed is really nice, but the Motos have so much tourque that the car stops instantly aber letting the gas loose. I mean the car doesent roll a lot after letting the gas loose, it breaks and stands still, even on an Hill. I would love to Test the Car on a Racetrack, but here where i live there are not many Racetracks, and the few Racetracs that exist are for competitionbuggys with their super loong jumps and such stuff.

Is it possible to unbuild a sport tuned Motor that the Timing is in reverse? I think 2 super stock BZ Motors are too much for a clod and it would be to much for the standard ESC, i think..... Because of Safetyissues in my wooden Cabin i do not want to go the LiPo way. And 2 x 7.2 Batteries are to heavy for the topheavy Clodbuster. Also a 8.5 Battery would not fit into the Batterytray....

Today i put 2 Super Stock BZ Motors with 0 Timinig into my more than ugly Wild dagger. I really need a new Bodyshell, maybe a Clod Buster Lexan Shell if such thin exists??

Today i`ve changed the motor in My Lunchbox today. (Silvercan to a Sport tuned) The Sport tuned Motor works really well with the RC-Car and the standard ESC from the Kit. In my Opinion the Sprt tuned Motor is a good choice because you get good Runtimes, its not overpowerd and doesn`t wear out to fast. Edit: I haven`t drove my Lunchboy for 2 or 3 years and was suprised what a good Jumper that little Thing is (Oilshocks + 3rd shock mod). I love to jump over little Kickers or woodplanks that lay on the Ground.

Ok, the Prints are removed. Now i have to apply Decals to it. I've decided to use Waterslidedecals. I`ve Buyed Revell Decal Softener. Is there a better Way to Apply Decals? Is there a better Decalsoftener for the best possible adhesive Action?

It`s painted on, well it`s printed on the Plastic.... I`ve tried GooGone (Pro-Power) and there is no Chance of getting it off. Ive also tried a Solvent of the "Tieger" brand (Tieger Universalverdünnung) and that worked... ...well it worked for the Grey print but now there is a tiny Little bit of White Primer or stuff like that. Here is a Picture of another Stick with the same Procedere (Tiger Solvent):

Ok, thanks for the Input. Painting is not an Option for me, because i want to have the original structure and feel of the Plastic and these "Arcade Sticks" get tiny scratches when used (by me). Scratches in Plastic look better than a Scratch in the Paint and the Primer.... I am afraid that Breakfluid or Graffitiremover will eat up the Plastic (ABS?) But if Breakfluid can remove the Print, i will try that.

Hello, i want to remove a Print from a Plastic "Arcade Stick" for the mini SNES. I want want to go from this (new one from EMIO 2017): To this (old one original from Nintendo 1990s): I found this on the TC Homepage: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=123547&id=108 A User of another Forum says that "Breakcleaner" could work. But "Breakcleaner" is a little bit unspecific and i am afraid of ruin the Plastic. Do you have have any Tips?

Uh, that would be a nice Service. In the Past some Hobbyshops offered that Service (mostly for Kids). I have unpainted Tamiya King Cab Shell and i`m shure that i would screw up the Paintjob. (The Shell has tiny Holes from the Long Storing and several shippings from A - B, so it has to be repaired before spraying)

Yes, O.Rings. I use them too because they`re laying around, but on larger Models they slip trough the Holes of the Bodyshell and they tend to breaking after a while.

I use Foamrubber between my Lexanshells and the Bodyclips on the Inside and on the Outeside. This prevents Scrating of the Paint, that "rattelingnoise" and Bending of the Clips.

I think it`s 250mm. I also thought about alternative Bodies (Others than Pickups). http://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4645/Products/K0006 http://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4645/Products/K0619[1] http://www.kamtec.co.uk/epages/BT4645.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4645/Products/K0069 (Ithink the last one would look very good on a Monster Truck) Team Bluegroove do have a King Cab and a Hilux Body, so i have buy them for my King Cab Chassis, because i have to make a Runnershell and i also have to learn how to paint a Lexan Body. (i have a clear original King Cab Body with original Decals and i`m totally affraid of ruin the Body...)

Hello, i would like to start a Topic with a List of 1:10 Monster Truck Bodies. The Searchengine didn`t give me anything useful. I´m in search for a Lexanbody for my Wild Dagger, the old one is painted in terrible Colors an i would like to use a Pickupbody from a real Carmanufactuer (Ford Nissan, Toyota, Chevrolet,...). What Sites do you recommend for Lexan 1:10 Bodies? (I did search the Proline Site) At the Moment the Best Result what i Could find was a Blackfoot Body, but with Windows, Stickers, and the other Parts i am way over 100 bucks, so i could buy a whole new Blackfoot and only use the Body and the Trees as Spareparts.... (And i would like to use Lexan for a Basher, not ABS....)

Hello, i need the Partnumber of the longer hexagon Ballconnector thingy... Do anyone have the Partnumber? I have to say that this Steeringmod is the BEST I have to come across the whole Internet, it`s better (in my opionon) than the regular Upright CPE Servomounts.

Has anyone have an Idea? I really would love to use Super Stock BZ Motors in my Wild Dagger or even in my Clodbuster.

@Juggular: I think a lot of People use the E-Maxx Shocks with the custom Shocktowers on theirs WR-01´s and they might be happy with that Setting. But i think the Shocks (as good as they are) are a Little bit to short because the Arms almos horizontally. If you over do the degree of your Arms, your Dogbones will Pop out, so i think there have to be a golden middle. For more Groundclearence ive bought a Little bit bigger Weheels from Hobbywing that will also look mor Monster Truckish, so the last Part is a beautiful Body like a FORD one. (Lexan prefered). My Optimum WR-01 dream Suspensionbehavior (not archeivable becaus in the Video shown is a WT-01): For the Clodbuster: There are These lift Kits: http://crawfordperformanceengineering.com/product_info.php?cPath=5_115&products_id=64 But i think longer eyelets would do the same Job but cheaper & better, but i don`t find any ^^ My Optimum Clod dream Suspensionbehavior (not archeivable):

Thanks for the quick and detailed answer. I got a Set of Traxxas Big Bore Shocks for the E-Maxx (set of 8 shocks), i think they are 100mm Long. I use 4 of the Shocks (with original Clod Buster springs) on an Wild Dagger with the aluminum shocktower and the Arms are almost horizontal.... ...i use the more inboard holes and the Suspension is a Little bit on the stiff side.... I also use 4 of the same Shocks on a Clod Buster with the original Clodbuster Springs and the Truck has zero "Sag" and the Suspension is also a Little too stiff for my liking.... ...so i thought maybe i´ll try longer eyelets to see if that change the supensionwork. The Shocks have plenty of inner Travel, more than the 2 Cars could fully make use of, but i think the Shocks are a Little bit to short for the Cars. I hope i was able to explain the "Problem" in "propper english" ^^ I´m very unconfident with my englishskills at the Moment ^^

Hello, i`m desperatly in search of Parts to make my Shocks a Little Bit longer. I´m thinking of These Parts: I would like to lenghten my Traxxas Big Bore Shocks from 100mm to 110, 115 or 120mm or something like that, so that the Suspension are able to fully extend and get a Little bit of "Sag". Are there any Options or other Ways to lenghten the Shocks?

That doesn`t solve my Problem. The local Hobbyshopguy says that my Piniongear could be to big (to much teeth), if it runs with Silvercans it has to run with super stock BZ Motors (zero timed). I think maybe the Battery is not able to provide enough Power for the Super Stock Motors. Maybe the Super Stock Motor draws much more Power than the Silvercans and because the Battery needs to power 2 Motors there is much to less Juice.....

You can time the Super Stock Motors, so i timed all my Super Stock Motors to Zero. To the Batteries: I do not have LiPos and i can`t use LiPos The Batteries are stored in a wooden cabin in the Woods and the Temperatures in Winter are often several degrees below 0° Celsius. (I don`use this Weekendhouse every Weekend....)

Hello, i would love to use 2 Superstock BZ Motors in my Wild Dagger (Zero timed). Therefore i´m using a Hobbywing Quicrun 860 WP for Dualmotors. Akwardly my Dagger just runs in walkingspeed... If i Change the Motors back to the normal Silvercans everything runs perfectly and the ESC is doing it`s Job. Im using normal 7,2 v NiMh or NiCd Stickbatteries. I Would love to use These Moros either in my Wild Dagger or in my Clodbuster.

Are These Tires the right ones? https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-2-2-Truck-Badland-Monster-Big-foot-Tires-Fit-RC-4WD-Axial-RPM-2-2-Wheels/172941395513?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49927%26meid%3Dc1bddc33ceb54d759735596b7a094907%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D182402319210%26itm%3D172941395513&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851