whahooo
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Posts posted by whahooo
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But the Toyota Bruiser only shares the axles and nothing else with the 1981 Toyota 4x4 pick-up. Bodies were different (except for the grill, of course), and so were the interiors, transmissions, suspensions, and even the chassis frame was 100% different in shape AND material.
You mean offroaders, Jim? If they were not the 1st ones, then which ones were the first offroaders in your opinion?
Isn't the XR 311 a scaler, an off-roader & released before the SRBs?
But I'm no expert by any means.
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Love the result!
I have an original kc (unpainted, unused, but it has a few tiny holes in it) body laying around, waiting for its paintjob.
But I'm not skilled enough to do that paintjob and I have nobody to help me...
So maybe I'll get a replica body to test how a lexan shell gets painted.
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When i've finished a model I threw the box in a corner of the room and the cat occupies it as her new place.
Edit:
Oh! New in box..... ....i usually do not own any NIB models.
At the time I only have the wheelie Montero NIB, soon to be build, and that's not a vintage model....
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I thought the voltage of lipos, Nimhs & NiCds are the same (7,2v).
Good thing that I don't own lipos!
But anyways, thanks a lot for that tipp!
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Sadly that's not possible with the transmitter I am using on this model, but mabe I'll change the radioset on that model...
Worth a try, thank you for your tipp!
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Hello,
i have a question about the lrp runner plus reverse.
This ESC has a automatic setup.
My Blazing Star is equipped with this ESC & a super stock bz motor.
The forward and brake functions are okay, but the reverse function is not right.
When I hit the reverse fully the car does nothing.
If I pull the reverse just a little bit (a few millimeters) the car goes in the reverse direction.
But if I pull the reverse fully the car does nothing and seems to go into the brake function.....
Is the ESC faulty?
What can I do? Any tipps?
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I'll make the conversion with the slotted pivots.
Do anyone know what screwbag I need for the wheels?
I need the tiny screws & nuts.
Do the lunchbox bearings fit the brat wheels?
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Today i've tried the sport tuned motor in both directions
The pitch of the sound in the rotationdirection is higher than against the rotationdirection.
Sadly i have no accurate tuner (for musicinstrumentes) at home, so i can't post the exact frequenzies.
But anyways, the motor is timed. For shure!
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My favorite song in the last past days!
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Today i searched the Internet for cars i don´t want because i can`t afford it and do not have the time to build and paint them.
I found an Avante 2011 on a local "craigslist" for € 250,- and the description says that a 2nd Avante 2011 is included for parts...
...in that offer is no Picture and the seller says if i would have questions, i have to call him.
So now i am in a unconfortable position, so should i get the cars?
Today i tried to contact the guy whos selling his 2 models, i found out that he`s not selling 2 re-re Avante 2011s....
....but he`s selling 2 Avante 2001s, and that model, i`m not interrested in...
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So, i have 3 more questions:
Do anyone know if the Bigbore springs fit the normal Traxxas plastic shocks?
Do anyone know the springrates (colours) of the Traxxas springs?
a silly one: I do not understand whats the difference between more sringload and a harder spring...
I know ist not the same but what is exactly the difference between a harder spring and more load on a softer one?
I want to change my White dual rate springs with other springs without the dual rate for an even springload, but i do not know if the BigBore springs would fit and if the red (the common ones) springs will be softer than the white ones.
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For me it was wood (swords & crossbows, cars, sleds, treehouses, etc.), LEGO, Matador & Baufix.
RC cars would habe been awsome, but that were the toys of the older boys (my father had an toy grade buggy that looked like a white Hotshot 2...).
Baufix:
Matador:
I had a huge Matador set from the era of my fathers and uncles childhood, that would be worth thousends of euros today.
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Today i searched the Internet for cars i don´t want because i can`t afford it and do not have the time to build and paint them.
I found an Avante 2011 on a local "craigslist" for € 250,- and the description says that a 2nd Avante 2011 is included for parts...
...in that offer is no Picture and the seller says if i would have questions, i have to call him.
So now i am in a unconfortable position, so should i get the cars?
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My wife said to me: "let's go! Build one, you don't have a car for onroading"
Either it is a trap, she did buy something expensive or chrismas is conning.....
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Nuce fuzzbox!
I hope the window rubbers will be painted too.
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No, they sadly do not fit.
The standard kit springs are super stiff, very very short and dont work at all, so i threw them in a box and packed them away.
The springs from my short "shock unit II CVA dampers" work good on the original C.V.A.s, but i installed a aluminum shocktower for longer suspensiontravel + longer shocks, so the C.V.A. springs do not match the new e-maxx Shocks because the e-maxx ones are way longer than the C.V.A.s.
PS:
I`ve tried every spring in my fundus and found not one set that would match in lengh and Diameter.
In the Internet i found a lot of matching springs but it seems that there are only stiffer springs available.
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For me It's the Hotshot!
The Avante is also very nice, but I never had one and never drove one....
My third place would be either a Terra Scorched or the Dirt Thrasher, but I do not own a Terra Scorcher, so I say Dirt Trasher because it handles better and I own one.
I really do not like the look of the Mantra Ray by the way...
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Thanks for all your answers.
Is anyone able to suggest a set of springs for my E-maxx Shocks? I want to use them on my Wild Dagger chassis and the current White dual rate springs are way to hard for that model.
I would also considering to buy a Tamiya Long shock set, but i don`t find that for a reasonable Price )one set of 2 Shocks € 35,- to 45.- and that a Little bit too much for me).
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Oh well sorry about that. Yes, the ball bearings work somehow in unmodified Sand Scorcher wheels, but as soon as you tighten the wheel nut slightly down, there's noticeably more resistance. To make the wheels spin freely like they usually should, it is necessary to enlarge the wheel's inner hole diameter, preventing it from getting in contact with the inner ring of the ball bearing.
This issue is not present when using plastic bushings, since the whole bushing turns with the wheel on the greased axle.
Enlarge the inner hole, for even better results use a spacer between the bearings.
You can cut spacers from brasstubes.
Here is a picture thats shows what i mean scroll to the bottom, it should be the last picture:
https://www.warehouseskateboards.com/help/Skateboard-Bearings-Buying-Guide
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Hello,
i've used the TC-search and did not find anything matching for my question.
I do not know a lot about schocks, their springs or the oils.
I normally use the standard plastic C.V.A. shock made by tamiya.
I've found nothing that works better for me. Sometimes I get a new car with "upgraded shocks" (blu aluminum with yellow springs e.g.) and everytime I change it back to the original tamiya ones for better results.
The only non Tamiya shocks I use are the Traxxas e-maxx shocks with the white progressive spring, they work great on my Clodbuster, but on my Wild Dagger they are too stiff.
I don't know if its the oil, the spring or both that do not work for me, but this evening I'll try the yellow taniya oil and hope that's a little bit thinner than the traxxas oil.
So to my question that starteted this topic:
Is there a schock guide in the internet?
What shocks do you use in what model?
And how they are settled? ->
How many pistinholes? Do you alter the oils? Do you change the springs?
(The springs are the only thing I change if the standards are to soft/stiff)
For me its the C.V.A.s with the most holes in the position in almost every model, I like it soft because I'm not really a jumper.
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I think the seller listed them as 23 turners, but I've learned to stay away from them.
Today I've tried the superstock bz motors with the quicrun wp 860 ESC and I've learned that this combo do not work, the ESC was quite warm after a one minute and the reverse gas was not working at all.
Tomorrow maybe I'll try the superstock bz motors with the tamiya dual motor ESC.
EDIT:
Silly me, i had my transmitter set too half throttle....
Now its set to full throttle and my Clod is a lot faster!
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Tanks mate!
But I was confused already.
I mixed up crp 1622 & crp 1624......
The parts I need are 2 x crp 1624 ones.
And that parts I do not find on the bay.
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I think I'll get insane while trying to find 2 x CRP 1622's.....
I watch ebay everyday and every minute, i have to stop that!
Maybe in a few weeks I have more luck with that part.
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Feel old, still toying around with an original xbox. :-)
Pfft... ...the only console that occasional powers up in my home is my beloved Dreamcast! (And sometimes maybe the NES or the Super NES)
In 3 years that thing is 20 years old, so you maybe could call it vintage
, but every now and then some games pop up and i get new stuff to play.In fact 2015 was THE year of the Dreamcast, we did get some nice games to play and Shenmue 3 was announced to be released in 2017 on PS4.
I love my Dreamcast..... ....its still thinking!
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, but every now and then some games pop up and i get new stuff to play.
hornet painschemes
in General discussions
Posted
Hello everyone,
i have a new Honet body coming to me for a interchange with my old very well used body.
Since i am indecisive with the color, i want to ask if anyone tried a 2 tone colerscheme.
My favorite colours are red (like the old one), black (have one, no need of a other one), white, green, silver, white & blue (hommage to the Big Wig), maybe yellow, maybe orange (maybe not the best choice because of the decalcolor).
If you have any pictures or showroomlinks, please post them.
Ps: I want to use the original decals.