whahooo
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Posts posted by whahooo
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Wrong, there will be a big difference, as you remove many grams from the front (motor, gears, diff, joints, bearings etc)...
You can also use this http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=9005735 which allows much more suspension travel because it is not as thick as the gearcase, so steering links dont touch it when used with longer shocks.
Also no problem at all with steering angle, no dogbones will pop out...
Finally it has other geometry and provides better steering.
Have a look at my RWD Mighty Bull which is my favorite truck, huge suspension travel, very lightweight and fast to the point you cant control it at full throttle...
Ok, i had a look of the chassis and now i understand what you mean with "steering links touch it when used with longer shocks".
The steering links touch the gearbox if i use longer shocks and the suspensionarms/wishbones are fully extended.
So i thinkin of getting the part you recomended. can i use the original Dagger wishbones/suspensionarms with this part??
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The WT-01 is basically a 2WD WR-01, and it runs very well. I actually prefer it to my WR-01 for high-speed driving as it is lighter and handles jumps better with its front kick-up.
I think, if i remove the motor & the dogbones the WR-01 will handle like a WT-01.
Ithink there will not be a huge difference.
PS:
I saw a Video of a WT-01 and the Suspension seems to work superb!
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I've ordered 2 aluminum shocktowers, when they arrive I'll try them with the plastic e-maxx shocks.
What motors would you recommend for either the tamiya dual motor ESC or the quicrun wp860?
I think the mororlimit would be 24 turns on both ESCs.
So the super stock motors would be to much....
Ps:
Today I saw a YouTube video of this chassis with a monster beetle shell on it, driving 2wd. It looked very nice
So maybe I put a super stock in it and drive it 2wd...
Anyone has a opinion or experience in driving a 2wd dagger?
How will it handle?
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DT-03 Neo Frog?
Edit:
...oooops did not scroll all the way down I guesss....
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So, my 2nd Clodbuster was delivered 10 minutes ago.
This Time ist a Super Clodbuster Chrome Edition.
The Chrome Body Looks kinda awsome (i did not tink so in the past), so maybe i dont use decals.
Maybe i´ll only spray a clearcoat over the chrome.
I´ll see and post the results.
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Nice Clod!
I´m thinking abot getting a 4 link Suspension, but the stock suspension seems to work for my minimal offroading, hm... ....i`ll see.
I´m also thinking about the steering set, but i`ll try ti reinforce the tierods with brasstubes <- did anyone did that before? I´ve never seen a brasstube reinforced tierod on Pictures before. is there a reason why that should be a bad idea?
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Has anyone ideas for a cromebody? Maybe original decals? 2 tone (that would be a waste of the chrome)? A hommage to another tamiya model? The 1:1 counterpart paintsheme?
Any ideas would be appreciated
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I don't want a very fast truck
I want only a truck that's as fast as a Lunchbox or a Hornet, but a little bit more capable of driving off road..I I would want a very fast truck I would buy a traxxas, but I don't like the looks of the cars.
I did not knew that the sport tuned motors are timed, I did read a lot of conments that demented that.
I've also red that there is a difference between japanese sport tuned and us sport tuned.
So now I'm confused
But I trust you, you are an expert in daggers, also I think you are the owner of a hobbyshop.
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1. Ok thanks. I don't unterstand how this will result in more travel, because there is a maximum expanded state (limited by the dogbone) and a maximum compressed state (limited by the ground).
But I have the dagger not at hand at the moment so I can't check how the suspension is designed....
2. Ok, I will try the sport tuned motors first (and let the tamiya ESC in it), if they are to slow I'll get a traxxas e-maxx 550 set + the evx-2 ESC.
3. Maybe I'll get another wild dagger body to paint it nicer than my ugly one, but maybe ill find a Blackfoot 3 body and orig. Blackfoot repro decals.
4. I do think the Dagger do not look like a real monstertruck, I think a little bit bigger tires will make a big difference in looks, but you are right, that might be to much for the axles and dogbones....
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I have a few dagger questions:
1. I want to use tamiya cva dampers, but they are a little bit on the short side...
What are the profits of the aluminum damper stay?
Why would I want to use longer dampers?
2. I think the dagger is horribly slow, so I want to use better motors.
Will tamiya sport tuned motors make the dagger "fast" like a hornet with the silver can?
Will 550 motors fit a stock chassis?
Can u run a traxxas evx-2 ESC with only one Tamiya stick pack? (The ESC has two battery plugs...)
3. My body looks horrible, what alternative body's would fit?
Lunchbox, Monster Beetle, orig. Blackfoot (favorite), other Tamiyas?
4. Do anyone know a little bit bigger 4wd tires+rims made by Tamiya that would fit?
PS:
The Dagger in the link has a lot of suspensiontravel without using a traditional shocktower, could I achieve the same result with tamiyz CVAs?
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The first Tamiya I've seen was a hornet, I was totally amazed of the speed, because I've only known toygrade RCs.
The first car I've had driven was a fighter buggy RX that my cousin gave me for free, the buggy broke because it jumped a little bit too far, so I've got a blazing star and was totally frustrated about the speed, so I began to mod it.
Years later I got me a Dualhunter and putted a stadium raider shell on it and putted better motors in.
I've sold all the stuff and missed it a lot, I've decided to never ever buy a RC again....
....but than I discovered the 1/32 micro losis....
Now I have a lot of the micro losis and much more Tamiyas.
(1 Grasshopper, 2 Hornets, 1 Dirt Thrasher, 1 Blazingstar, 2 Sand Scorchers, 2 DT-02 -Holidaybuggy&Scorcher, 1 Blackfoot, 1 Monster Beetle, 1 Lunchbox, 1 Montero, 1 Clodbuster, 1 Wild One, 3 King Cabs with only 2 bodies...)
I think I'm addicted since my childhood and every time I give up that RC thing it gets worse and I need a bigger fix of it.
So my advice:
Do not quit RCs, they will haunt you in your dreams till you get back into the hobby and the wost part is, its not hard to find d dealer who sell you all kinds of rereleases not even caring 'bout your past.
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Good News!
Today i´ve got the permission to get a 2nd Clod, it will be the crome one.
Sadly the crome Clodbust er i (hopefuly) will get has no decals, so i´m wondering how to Paint it or decal it....
...all i have to decal it is a rere scorcher sticker sheet...
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I do paint only the inner part of the letters, because i´m not the talantest "paintist".
I use a white ballpointpen.
The better way is to paint the outer line also, it makes the letters sharper looking.
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I´ve started to buy Tamiya mini 4WD Offroad jr. models....
...do i need them? No....
...am i fascinated of the functionality of them? No...
...are they a real super fun project do build? No...
But they are "cute" near the big Tamiyas on the shelf, also i have 5 micro Losis and a lots of parts, so i could make them RCable and fun to drive.
Also i`m not able to not watch Youtubevideos of them:
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Thanks for all the Tipps so far!
Yesterday I've cutted the rubbertube spacers of the original shocks from 19mm to 15mm.
Now the clod is able to lift the tires just a little bit higher & in compressed state there's still plenty of space between body and tyres.
With 15mm rubbertubes the tyres are not even near of rubbing the body.
Maybe the 19mm spacer is for not damaging the anti rotation bracet?
(If I'm honest I don't really understant what that anti rotation bracet is for...)
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NiMH packs are the opposite - they like to be stored charged. We simply charge ours normally after a bashing session, and pack them away once cool. This seems to work well - even our older packs are still going strong.
So, I've found out I have NiCd & NiMH batterys...
I've understood that you store NiMH batterys charged, but before you run them after a long storagetime, do you discharge them & charge them or do you charge them without discharging them?
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Hmm... Maybe I'll get another clod.
I'm not the guy who sells things, everytime I sold something I loved (RC models, videogameconsoles, ...), I was regretting it...
I don't think I would get 400,- for it and for me it has more value. (Personal value, not financial value)
I'll se how things go...
Ps:
If I'm motivated I'll post pictures of the little "damages" the truck has on its body.
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Hmmm..... ....now you put me into a misery.
That's like having a beautiful wife/husband and not even touch her/him.
(I hope that argument is family friendly)
There are a few things I have to mention:
-) The truck was run before, but is was something like 1:10 scale 70s monstertrucking, so the highest jumps were 25cm or something like that.
-) I didn't knew that the truck was only 2 years in production, I thought the clod was produced till the early 90s.
-) As mentioned in a other thread, I'm a poor modeler, so I have to get better before I do any "damage trough detailing" to the paintjob.
-) The paintjob is better than my own paintjobs, but I do a nicer sticker-/decaljob then the guy who build that clod and I have to mention that the paint has a little bit of damage where the body meets the bumper. (The chrome bumper also has some slight damage)
-) Every of my cars are runners, but I don't run them very hard. I'm not a racer I'm not a basher, I'm something like a "golfcourse offroader". I want to have fun with my cars.
-) My wife was very impressed of the size of my monster. If I get another one she will get a little bit of something called "mad".
-) Also I don't have enough free space for another clod. (But there is a chrome one on my local craigslist for 180,-
)...so I'll see how things go, I don't want to do any damage to the truck, all hopups are "revetsable" so I always could make all changes back into the original state. And if it sits on his shelf parts like the tyres are get broken anyways, the plastic get brittle also....
....hmmm I'm thinking about to make it a shelfer but, I would be happier so see my beauty I a museum if I'm not allowed to touch her.
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Hello fellow TC memers,
there was a indirect request of posting my stock Clodbuster "restoration" project, so here we go...
.) The first thing i have to mention is, thats there is nothing broken on this Clod, so i`ll only clean the gearbox, regrease it and change the bushings with ballbearings.
.) The second step is to install a tower pro 959 Servo in that beast.
.) The third step will be the installation of a Aluminum Chassis Brace & Anti-Rotation Bracket set from "crawfords" to archieve more sturdyness/stability.
.) The fourth step is to install a ESC, i will be using a Quicrun wp860.
.) Another step (maybe) will be the reinforcement of the tierods with some brasstubes.
.) The "last" step will be the installation of Traxxas E-Maxx plastic shocks allaround.
Here are some pictures:
The chassis:
The body:
The whole Clod:
The Transmitter:
The Charger:
At the Moment my Batterys have the old mini Tamiyaclip, but i will be upgrading to a normal Tamiyaclip in the future (never done that before, tipps welcome
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You are good influences
Today I've ordered a set of those shocks and hope the springs aren't too stiff.
Here in Vienna aren't many hobbyshops, so getting softer springs is not the easyest thing to archive.
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I´m thinking about trying these shocks:
Anyone tryed the plastic E-Maxx shocks?
Do they performe like the yellow Tamiya C.V.A.`s? (I really like how the Tamiya plastic C.V.A.´s perform, i have them in every of my models, i´ve tryed Reely and 3Racing shocks in the past and din´t like them at all, but maybe it was my fault and i´ve used them the wrong way...)
I´m also thinking about to open a pictured "build/restore thread" of my vintage Clodbuster, because i´m asking a lot of silly questions in the last time, but i`affraid to show my pood modeling skills and that that nobody understands the way i talk/write in English.... ....sometimes i feel like "Hercules in New York".
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Ok, now i understand the Profit, thanks!
Maybe in the future I'll use longer oilshocks, but I will adjust them to the original ridehight and get more "negative" suspensiontravel...
I hope thats understandable, my English is not the best
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Hello fellow TC members,
the first thing I have to say is that I love to be a member here in the TC!
Here are a so many nice and helpful people, its incredible!
I don't know a lot of forums with this quality.
My Question about clod shocks:
What are those lift kits for? http://www.clodparts.com/products/suspension/11.html
To make the clod taller? I don't need that, the clod is tall enough...
To get more suspensiontravel? That would be awesome.
The internet says:
For use the lift kit on the stock Clodbuster (or Bullhead), it will increase the length of the stock shocks and allows for the rubber tubing to be removed from the shock for more wheel travel.
Me asks:
Could I use longer dampers to get the same effect that I get from the lift kit?
I really don't see the profit of that kit....
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After reading in the precious internet, i mixed up the terms nicd & nimh....
....a few weeks ago I charged all of my nicd batterypacks for storage because I thought in the past years I was handeling the batterys the wrong way. (The last years I stored them discharged...)
Is there anything I can do to rescue them?
tamiya pajero 58044 question.
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
I want to build a conversion of the Monterointo the Pajero to.
I have a boxed "Wheelie Montero" and the mini C.V.A.s in White (also have (short C.V.A.s in whithe because i was not shure about the lengh).
what else would i be needing?
1.) The Brat rims & wheels -> check! i will get them
2.) screws & nuts for the wheels -> hm i don`t know what screwbag i have to get....
3.) the front wheelaxles -> i don´t know if i can use the Lunchbox (have the already at home) ones or if i have to get Grasshopper ones (maybe i also have them already at home -> must check)
Is there anything else i have to get?
PS:
I don`t want an original Pajero, i want a lookalilike Pajero with oilshocks and a "pivot gearbox" like the Lunchbox or the Hornet.....
I´m happy about every recomendations and tipps, i`m happy about beeing a little part of such a nice community!
PPS:
If anyone searches a builing tutorial, there is one in the Showroom of a member:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=125448&id=1163