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About osunick

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  1. Yeah, this was one of my first ever designs, and now I have an MMU2S on my Prusa so I can do soluble supports. Still, I haven't managed to break the arms yet. Totally agree that the inside corners could use more chamfering.
  2. Though the reason why I put many rads is that I designed to print on an FDM printer with no supports. The only radii i put in was for suspension clearance, since I don't have to worry about injection molding issues. The suspension I have is basic looking but prints well.
  3. too much work, but there are services that will 3d print any design you provide. This design is free to use and remix, so feel free.
  4. Ha I am sure you are right. I should know better than to make assumptions about molding techniques in a Tamiya forum. Also, I'm not selling these but anyone with a 3D printer can print one.
  5. I have two of these sets and find them handy for a variety of reasons. The worst part is the blow molded insert that holds the tools in place in the case, so I designed a new one. Hope this is useful to someone. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4532536
  6. 30th anniversary is a different chassis and should have the proper wheelbase, BTW.
  7. I've never done shapeways, but they would likely want the STL files. I imagine if you just point them to the thingiverse site they will know what to do. I would also like to know the story of how you ended up with three 934s.
  8. Thanks for that, I thought they seemed special but thought they were the pack in tires.
  9. Those are the original tires from the 80s release. The pins were ziggurat shaped and the idea was that you could trim them to the level you wanted for your track.
  10. Bought a super clean Turbo Optima with an original body that was decaled and unpainted, with a hole cut for the mechanical speed controller. Bought the reissue body which came with masks which made the box art much easier to achieve. Well worth the money. Also went with a Keyence brushed ESC (for the original LeMans 240S!) so I could use the reissue driver figure as well. It all fits fine. The top plate doesn't have the hole for the post so I just used VHB tape to hold the driver in place. Don't do what I did and mistake a mold line on the rear spoiler for a cut line. I had to use scrap lexan to make the rear wing square again.
  11. I wasn't happy with the rear camber so I tweaked the rear arms. Updated on Thingiverse. Also designed new battery mounts so that the battery wouldn't hang too far off the right of the car, distorting the body. New mounts center the battery on the chassis. I assume the original design was to offset the weight of the motor.
  12. I was inspired by this tutorial here and after living with the spacers for a bit I decided to create new suspension arms for the TA02SW to correct the wheelbase for the 230mm body. Hope this is of use to someone: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4202335 You will still need 2.5mm spacers for the upper links- I didn't bother to design new ones as those are easy enough to find and you don't need to cut anything. Enjoy! -n.
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