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Mokei Kagaku

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About Mokei Kagaku

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  1. Tamiya RC-models often are not the actual scale as "printed on the box" and that's nothing new at all, but at least the proportions tend to be very good. Apart from the "Comical" models, which of course and thankfully are deliberately out of proportions, I can't recall any other bodies than the 58036 Audi quattro and 58037 Opel Ascona with as poor proportions as the new Citroen DS. That's what bothers me and I don't at all have a problem with it not actully being 1/10 scale. One roughly consistent scale would have been nice though!
  2. I'm sorry, but I simply can't stop whining about the new Tamiya Citroen DS. Meanwhile I've found the significant dimensions of the model and the scale varies a lot. Length: 1/11.5 scale Widtn: 1/9.0 scale Height: 1/10.7 scale Wheelbase: 1/13.1 This indicates deviations in proportions roughly as below. Because the length scale is quite different from the wheelbase scale, the body obviously varies in scale along the longitudinal axis. Not knowing exactly how it varies, I didn't take this variation into account. However, the "Tamiya" version in the drawing below has a wheelbase of about 270mm (correct for the 419mm length), whereas the actual model has a 239mm wheelbase, so the proportions are in reality even more distorted. That said, the model will, like the real car, have a narrower track rear than front, and with an overall width (front) like a pretty wide touring car, my guess is that the DS comes with MB-01 rear suspension and BT-01 front suspension.
  3. Exciting project! As for ground clearance, have you considered using the uprights/C-hubs from the M05Ra? They are direct fit and I've used them for added clearance on several TL01-, M04- and M06-cars. Admittedly, they don't add much ground clearance, but it's an easy and cheap modification. I haven't measured, but an estimation is about 5mm added ground clearance.
  4. 2024: 42384 TRF421 Chassis Kit 47497 Squash Van (Green & White Painted Body) (GF-02 chassis) 47501 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA Club Racer (White Painted Body) (MB-01 MWB RWD Chassis) 56014* U.S. M4 Sherman 105mm Howitzer Full-Option Kit (RC Tank Models 50th Anniversary) 56374 Volvo FH16 Globetrotter XL 750 4X2 Full Operation Kit 56375 Volvo FH16 Globetrotter XL 750 4X2 58729 Opel Kadett GT/E (MB-01 LWB RWD chassis) 58734 Citroen DS (MB-01 LWB FWD chassis) 58736 Ford Baja Bronco (CC-02 M-length chassis) 58738 XM-01 Pro Chassis Kit (210/225/239mm wheelbase) 58739 1998 Honda NSX Racing (TT-02 chassis) *56014: The anniversary version will be released with the same item number as the 2001 version, but isn't identical. Among other details, the anniversary version an anniversary plaque is included.
  5. I really wonder what they were thinking at Tamiya. I appreciate that making the DS true 1:10 scale would have required a new chassis or an extension to an existing one, but now it comes on the MB-01 in L-configuration (239mm wheelbase), which makes the wheelbase of the model 1:13 scale and the width 1:11 scale, whereas the clearly distorted proportions reveal that the body has at least two different scales. If Tamiya had put the body on the BT-01 chassis, 1:12 scale would have been possible, and it would probably be enough space to get the proportions correct too. I've had the Citroen DS from the Spanish toy company Paya on my wishlist for years after first seeing one converted to RC with Wild One suspension. The Paya DS is about 1:12 scale and very hard to find, so when I first saw the Tamiya DS, I thought I would finally be able to build a DS Rallye Monte Carlo contender, but I dropped it from my "wishlist" once I saw the poor proportions. I would have expected a lot better from Tamiya than this. Btw, Paya made their DS from 1960 to 1969. Admittedly Paya didn't have to make the body fit a specific chassis, but they made the molds half a century ago and the overall proportions are still absolutely superior to Tamiya's DS.
  6. I agree with all above. I have ordered from L & L a few times and though they have partially been chaotic and somewhat slow, everything turned out fine every time. I wouldn't hesitate to order again, but would keep in mind that the delivery might take some time.
  7. Parts are packed and I'll go to the post office today or tomorrow as soon as work allows. Here are a few pics of a TL-01 I built and hopped up around 1998/1999 and have updated as suitable new hop-ups got available. Please disregard the dust! After 24-25 years without use and 6 re-locations, it's in need of a thorough clean!) Hop-ups: 53267 TA03 Ball Differential 53300 Turnbuckle Tie-Rod Set* 53301 Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set* 53303 Adjustable Upper Arms* 53322 Hollow Carbon Gear Shaft 53323 Carbon Propeller Shaft 53342 Speed-Tuned Gear Set 53346 Quick Release Battery Holder 53418 Universal Shaft Set 53467 Long-Span Suspension Arm Set 53517 LA Stabilizer Set 53569 Clamp Type Aluminum Wheel Hub (6mm Thick) Additionally: Ball bearings M03 bumper (*If I recall correctly, replaced when the original suspension was replaced with the LA-suspension) Mounted primarily for colour-coding (purple) (less for performance): 49063 Colour Antenna Pipe (Purple) 49070 TA03 Super Low Friction Damper Set (Purple) 49090 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector (Purple) 49093 Aluminum Servo Stay (Purple) Additionally: 3Racing purple motor heat sink Purple wheelnuts (not Tamiya, if I recall correctly) Purple Springs (off a TA04, I believe) Mounted primarily for colour-coding (grey) (less for performance): 53217 Hard Joint Cup Set (for Ball Diff) 53331 Lightweight Frame 53336 Reinforced One-Piece Mesh Wheels 53571 TRF Damper Set (Fluorine Coated)(combined wtih 49070) 53599 Fluorine Coated 5mm Aluminum Ball Nut 53600 Fluorine Coated Aluminum Stabilizer Ends 53918 V-Parts for TRF Damper 54237 M05 Low Friction King Pin 54489 Low Friction 5mm Adjuster (Short) 10005757 Mad Bison B-Parts All original screws replaced with black, but otherwise identical and original Tamiya screws.
  8. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/101963-fire-dragon-karyu-and-super-storm-dragon-donryu-a-deeper-meaning/&tab=comments#comment-922803
  9. I have enough, so you can have an antenna mount, a pinion cover and two propshaft covers for free too. If you should be interested in a complete sprue of 10005757, you can have one for the same i bought it for.
  10. As covered here in the forum before, sometimes Tamiya design and name their models with a “deeper meaning”. From the top of my head, I remember; - The pink/white colour scheme of the Frog.(from the similarly “froggish” Mazda K360 3-wheeled truck, with its white and pale pink standard colourscheme) - The names of RC- and Mini 4WD models inspired by WW2-era Japanese airplanes (e.g. “Thunder Dragon”, “Storm Dragon”, “Shooting Star”, “Fire Dragon”) ymd3a1977 on X (formerly Twitter) might be onto another clue though.: Or is the shape of the Dash-1 Emperor just by a remarkable coincidence quite similar to the fins of the Chiroteuthis imperator, also known as the Emperor Squid?
  11. As far as i can see in the photos, you have used the normal TL-01 B-parts (50736) where you haven't replaced them with hop-ups. As you probably know, the 44025 Mad Bison had the TL-01 B-parts in fibre reinforced grey plastic (#10005757). As you have used the LA-suspension, alu hex hubs and a high-torque servo saver, i don't think there is any actual technical benefit of replacing the other regular B-parts (antenna mount, pinion cover, propshaft covers) with Mad Bison parts. However, being grey they kind of match the lw chassis, though being a different hue of grey. if you don't have them and should want them, I will happily send you the parts for free.
  12. 2023/2024: 47494 Fiat 131 Abarth Rally Olio Fiat Painted Body (MF-01X chassis, L wheelbase (239mm)) 58735 Motul Autech Z (TT-02 chassis)
  13. I've mounted the portals from my Dynahead on my Hummer too. I like the G6-01, but never cared much for the portals on the Dynahead, and considering that the 1:1 Humvee/H1 has portals and the stock Dirt4WD isn't very capable off-road, I think they are much more at home on the Dirt4WD chassis. The left-over pair of portals ended up on an M04 I mounted a VW Type 181 / VW Thing body* on (*scratchbuilt by a much more talented person than myself). To achieve similar ground clearance up front (while keeping the authentic RWD chassis), I swapped from M03/M04 to M05Ra C-hubs. After all, the Type 181 had portals the first years of production, until VW changed from swing axles to full IRS trailing arms in the rear. I plan to move the portals on the Dirt4WD to a GF-02 chassis though, hoping that the GF-02's high chassis isn't an obstacle for using the Hummer body and stock size tires.
  14. To me, white, black, silver, flat clear, yellow and pink are "base paints" that I always need to have available: Black: regularly required for details, like air intakes, window surrounds etc.. More important though, I almost always put on a final coat of black for a uniform and technical look (on the inside) and to make the body as opaque as possible. White: to brighten light colours, and to block darker colours (applied after) from being visible through the light colour(s) (applied prior). Also, often required to back fluorescent colours. Silver: to get the most of metallic and translucent colours and make them opaque (more relevant for light and translucent and/or metallic colours). Also, sometimes silver is required to block fluorescent colours from bleeding through a light colour applied before the fluorescent colour is applied. For instance, if white is used first and fluorescent pink applied after, the pink will shine through the white even if the white colour was backed up with black. My experience is that only silver sufficiently blocks fluorescent colours from shining through light colours. Yellow / pink: depending on the desired result, backing red with yellow or pink (instead of white) to "adjust" the red colour. Clear: Tamiya PS55 flat clear works well as a primer, allowing for the use of paints not recommended for polycarbonate to be used. E.g. Tamiya TS colours and especially OEM-colours to replicate the colour on a 1:1 vehicle. Also, PS55 is from my extensive experience the most scratch resistant PS colour, so sometimes I use it as a final coat (over black) and/or when the inside of the body is more or less visible with body mounted. Finally, PS55 can be used on the outside when a flat finish is desireable, like canvas tops, window rubbers and other parts that are flat on 1:1 vehicles. The necessity and benefit of using these different colours vary with the brand of paint(s) used, the desired result, personal preferences, colour scheme, order and number of layers, body shape, the hues onto which the "base paints" are applied and more, so with experience, different people tend to come to somewhat different conclusions.
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