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Posts posted by OOZZEE

  1. On 11/28/2019 at 6:47 AM, Wooders28 said:

    It's good you're taking time to ask questions.👍

    I've 20+ lipos , always storage charge after use (after letting it cool down, if ive been hammering it with a low turn motor), and I normally check mine every 6 months ,ish , by just plugging them into the charger and do a storage charge, normally a couple of seconds and the charger comes up, DONE. (Or whatever your charger does when it's finished)

    If you have a digest through this page, I think you'll know more than most.




    the one bit of information that I struggle to find is what amperage should we discharge them at to go into storage mode, set at the lowest rating a 5000mah battery can take 18 hours to discharge to storage( from full charge ) I am using an Ultra Power UP6+ and an ISDT Q6 pro with an independent power supply. any advise appreciated.




  2. 6 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

    Got these trial car stands from @yogi-bear , infilled the etching and assembled them (they come in kit form 👍) without an issue, got to stick on the non slip pads and start trying cars on them, but so far these are top notch





    These will be fine tuned by Yogi, then I believe they will be available for purchase, my issue is I’ll need quite a large number of them 😂😂

    Whats the damage for 1, I need about 40 for my display case, Tamiya, team associated, Yokomo, Schumacher etc. at least he is locally based to me 

  3. 11 hours ago, Superluminal said:

    The prebuilt shocks on the Outlaw were leaking so badly out of the box that the front suspension lower arm had filled up with oil. The plastic damper body on these was very soft and twists / deforms when tightening the top cap. Which is a shame as the rest of the truck is epic.

    The red dampers on my Javelin leak too and this has only sat on a shelf. I found the very thin plastic gasket almost impossible to fit without crinkling or tearing (fortunately there are spares) but the leak seems to be around the piston area so I can only assume the designed tolerances for the piston to the o-rings is too loose? Havent had this problem on CVAs or Hicaps on the Egress.

    Over christmas I might rebuild them with sone Tamiya red silicone o rings and see if this helps.


    I ended up using red rings, green slim and a small amount of plumbers tape around the threads of on the bottom cap, along with the plastic gasket. no problems so far but I have only driven it up and down the road, id say it would be different after going over a few jumps and crashes.


  4. I picked up an early release from my LHS, apparently 2 came into Australia from the pre production batch, dint come with Diff or Shock oil, was a pretty easy build except for the shock's they suck - the seal is a PIA to get over the collar, 1 X shock leaked overnight onto my tool bench. its a lot heavier than my Super Astute









    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1

  5. Hi Jonathon, I have the surpass V4 in my new built Xray XB419 and have had the same problem, its very noisy when off throttle or coasting along, I was of the opinion that I had built the diff wrong but on inspection it is just the Magnets on the rotor, I have a 17.5 in my B6.1 and it is the same.

    I must say that they are a great motor, heaps of torque and speed.


    • Like 1

  6. 11 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    My 2 Surpass V4S 17.5T motors arrived today. 1 is for my 2wd buggy, the other is a spare for whichever 4wd buggy needs a new motor first. Looking forward to trting these, by all accounts they perform as well as the brand name motirs for half the price. Have to wait until Sunday if the weather plays nice

    I have the 13.5 for stock 4wd and its a beast, check out the you tube review by Nick Adams, it has better specifications than the majority of the Big brand motors

    • Like 1

  7. 5 hours ago, Theibault said:

    Ok, so once more I pray for a 959/GrB re re on the eve of the show. That's all I want lol. :P Come on Tamiya, deliver to me.


    is there another show on the Horizon that I don't know about ????, I thought that I had put the 959 Demon to bed LOL

  8. Top deck and small parts from Fibrelyte for my YZ10 94, it was my first time using/ordering from Fibrelyte they where excellent, delivery to Australia was no problem at all and very quick and reasonable.

    Also picked up some Lipo trays for the YZ10 from a guy off Old School RC on facebook, I was a bit nervous about this order/ordering anything on facebook but these turned up quick and are of a high quality would definitely recommend using him again.

    Now just waiting for TBG to deliver the YZ10 and Lazer ZX body shell's for painting 



  9. Just don't buy the Cat XLS if its your first kit, wait until kit # 20 to make that leap, my son built an RC10 worlds when he turned 13 and he managed fine up until the turn buckles, as above make sure you have the correct tools for the job and a well lit stable working area

    take your time and enjoy the build, it is very rewarding 

    • Haha 1

  10. Finally got around to installing the Motor and speed controller into the Cat, was going to take my time with the painting but rushed it as usual, it bled through the tape, window masks stuck to the window and couldn't get the residue off, that let to a couple of layers of smoke/Gun Mettle on the windows, rear wing disintegrated during the painting process, so replaced with a spare that I had, still waiting for the front hinge pin to arrive that was missing from the kit. Took it for a quick spin on the drive way and promptly broke the solder joint on the sway bay.


    Yep gotta love this build - ( car drives great and is very smooth )


    Calmed myself down by installing some wheels and a wing onto the yoke, will get around to putting a 17.5 speed passion system into it at some point, then a re-pro body shell ( can't wait to paint that )




    • Like 1

  11. I just finished the build and it was quite the challenge, I am missing 2 X Hinge pins for the front suspension and have a massive wobble in the spur gear ( doesn't sit tight between the 2 x Diff rings ), several times during the build I was ready to give up and throw it in the shed, happy to have finished it, it was a massive challenge but well worth it, for the build I would invest in some circlip pliers for the shocks and also complete the steering assembly before the under tray goes on. 

    Now I just need to figure out the gearing for a 17.5 and complete the electrics

    PS - don't even get me started on the soldering of the sway bar, I still have the blisters on my fingers ( for the parts where it missed the super glue that was stuck to my fingers )

    • Like 2

  12. 1 hour ago, Effigy3 said:

    Sometimes slow and steady really does win the race!

    If it were me, I'd get a DB-01RRR.  Put that SpeedPassion ESC you won and mate it to a 13.5T motor. 


    I'm partial to the SpeedPassion v3.0 MMM series.  My track is pretty strict on configurations though.  4WD buggy Super Stock requires 13.5T motors.  That class has pretty much decimated the 4WD buggy mod class.  Most of the racers found 13.5T was pretty much perfect.  The mod motors were far too quick for the track.  As Jon Gil said, the lap times between the two were pretty much the same but the 13.5T cars spent more time on their wheels and experienced far fewer breakages thanks to slower speed crashes.

    I have a 10.5 in my Daughters ( read as Mine 👍🏽) DB-01 RRR and it is an awesome buggy, much preferred it over the B44 series cars that I have, starting to show its age against the Associated B64 and can be a pain to work on, but it is a strong and reliable car for the average racer + its a Tamiya 

    • Like 1
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