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About geopaj

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  1. Pteppic, thanks for the PDF manual I really appreciate it
  2. Back in the day when I was a kid and competitively raced (in Australia), The Fox was the 2wd buggy to have. To stay competitive, a Fox was purchased for me (and then the mandatory Tamiya front sway bar was purchased, shortly followed by a Techigold motor). My club used to race in an indoor gym which had a fine carpet/felt floor. The other "essential modification" to be competitive was home made foam tires (made from pipe lagging, fitting to rims and then 'machined' down by spinning them with a drill on sandpaper). On race day the tires were prepped by rubbing sun tan cream into the foam!
  3. WillyChang and danb1974 - could you please suggest sure chargers? I would prefer a charger that will run on both mains power (240v in Australia) and automotive 12v (which is really 12v-14v, depending on if the engine is running)
  4. My son and I both have RC cars with matching 2,000mah nimh batteries (same age, brand and capacity). We also do a lot of camping away from mains power. I have bought a Imax B6-AC (ie https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6478__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_.html) which can be run on mains power or off the car battery (I have a 4x4 with an auxiliary deep cycle battery for running a car fridge and other accessories). Charging the batteries at 1c (2amps) obviously takes about an hour per battery which means it takes two hours before both cars can be run again. The charger can charge up to 6 amps. Could I make up a "double adaptor lead" to charge both batteries at the same time and set the charger to 4 amp (two 2,000mah batteries = 4,000mah so 1c would be 4 amps). This would 1/2 the time required to charge both. When not camping the batteries would be charged desperately via mains chargers (I have only one charger capable of running off 12v) Is this plan sound / safe for occasional use when camping? Could I do this with LIPO batteries? (If yes, how would I wire up the cell balancing wires?) I assume, as LIPOs can often be charged at over 1c I could even bump the charger up to 6 amps, assuming the LIPOs are 2,000mah?? Thanks
  5. Thanks everyone who replied (especially 94eg! For the extremely detailed response). It's nice to know WHY, which I now do
  6. Awsome! I love the wheel/tire/body package. Do people in the California run black roofs? In Australia roofs are either body colour or white... it's too hot for a black roof here.
  7. Ok, be kind... I bought two Himoto Bashe RTR buggies. They were on post-Christmas sale and were AU$100 each (approx US$74) and have complete parts support at a couple of LHS. I figured for the price I couldn't go wrong as they are complete, which each buggy even including a battery and charger. As stated above, it will keep the kids away from my recently restored vintage Fox. I have noticed they seen to track "happier" going forward compared to in reverse so perhaps the toe-out advice is good??? They are just for bashing/fun... Nothing to serious
  8. I bought a couple of cheap RTR Buggies from my LHS for my kids the other day (I'm too embarrased to confess the brand😔 - the cars are just for bashing and keep them away from my vintage Fox) Both buggies came set with a lot of toe-out (to me). The LHS confirmed this is the correct setting for an off-road RC car. I always though (or assumed) that an RC buggy would run similar wheel alignment figures and a full size, real, road car (ie couple of degrees neg camber and a couple of degrees toe-in). So, my questions are; 1/. Is the the toe-out advice correct? 2/. If yes, what is the lodgic/rational for an RC car needing toe-out when full size, real, road car needs the exact opposite, toe-in? Thanks
  9. Awsome. I remember my inlaws used to have a full size Brumby almost identical to your RC.
  10. Yeah, they've been around for a long time. If I remember correctly, my parents bought my Fox from them in the '80s. I certainly bought plenty of plastic model kits with my (saved up) pocket money in the '80s.
  11. Tried swapping the motor connectors but then I was only getting about 70% power going forward and 100% in going backwards and with the brake function it was a complete pain (because the brake was operating in the forward direction)
  12. Well... I took my TX, RX and motor/diff assembly to my LHS (Hobby Habit in Adelaide) with the hope of buying an another ESC. They were unable to get ESC to work with my radio set. Apparently it needs a reversing switch but mine does not have one. No ESC for me I do have some good news however... I have stripped down my MSC's servo, cleaned and retuned the gears and it is working perfectly! Looks like I'll be running a complete vintage setup!
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