geopaj

Yes (on an iPad)

Pteppic, thanks for the PDF manual I really appreciate it

Me too

Back in the day when I was a kid and competitively raced (in Australia), The Fox was the 2wd buggy to have. To stay competitive, a Fox was purchased for me (and then the mandatory Tamiya front sway bar was purchased, shortly followed by a Techigold motor). My club used to race in an indoor gym which had a fine carpet/felt floor. The other "essential modification" to be competitive was home made foam tires (made from pipe lagging, fitting to rims and then 'machined' down by spinning them with a drill on sandpaper). On race day the tires were prepped by rubbing sun tan cream into the foam!

WillyChang and danb1974 - could you please suggest sure chargers? I would prefer a charger that will run on both mains power (240v in Australia) and automotive 12v (which is really 12v-14v, depending on if the engine is running)

My son and I both have RC cars with matching 2,000mah nimh batteries (same age, brand and capacity). We also do a lot of camping away from mains power. I have bought a Imax B6-AC (ie https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__6478__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_.html) which can be run on mains power or off the car battery (I have a 4x4 with an auxiliary deep cycle battery for running a car fridge and other accessories). Charging the batteries at 1c (2amps) obviously takes about an hour per battery which means it takes two hours before both cars can be run again. The charger can charge up to 6 amps. Could I make up a "double adaptor lead" to charge both batteries at the same time and set the charger to 4 amp (two 2,000mah batteries = 4,000mah so 1c would be 4 amps). This would 1/2 the time required to charge both. When not camping the batteries would be charged desperately via mains chargers (I have only one charger capable of running off 12v) Is this plan sound / safe for occasional use when camping? Could I do this with LIPO batteries? (If yes, how would I wire up the cell balancing wires?) I assume, as LIPOs can often be charged at over 1c I could even bump the charger up to 6 amps, assuming the LIPOs are 2,000mah?? Thanks

Thanks everyone who replied (especially 94eg! For the extremely detailed response). It's nice to know WHY, which I now do

Awsome! I love the wheel/tire/body package. Do people in the California run black roofs? In Australia roofs are either body colour or white... it's too hot for a black roof here.

Ok, be kind... I bought two Himoto Bashe RTR buggies. They were on post-Christmas sale and were AU$100 each (approx US$74) and have complete parts support at a couple of LHS. I figured for the price I couldn't go wrong as they are complete, which each buggy even including a battery and charger. As stated above, it will keep the kids away from my recently restored vintage Fox. I have noticed they seen to track "happier" going forward compared to in reverse so perhaps the toe-out advice is good??? They are just for bashing/fun... Nothing to serious

I bought a couple of cheap RTR Buggies from my LHS for my kids the other day (I'm too embarrased to confess the brand😔 - the cars are just for bashing and keep them away from my vintage Fox) Both buggies came set with a lot of toe-out (to me). The LHS confirmed this is the correct setting for an off-road RC car. I always though (or assumed) that an RC buggy would run similar wheel alignment figures and a full size, real, road car (ie couple of degrees neg camber and a couple of degrees toe-in). So, my questions are; 1/. Is the the toe-out advice correct? 2/. If yes, what is the lodgic/rational for an RC car needing toe-out when full size, real, road car needs the exact opposite, toe-in? Thanks

Awsome. I remember my inlaws used to have a full size Brumby almost identical to your RC.

Yeah, they've been around for a long time. If I remember correctly, my parents bought my Fox from them in the '80s. I certainly bought plenty of plastic model kits with my (saved up) pocket money in the '80s.

Tried swapping the motor connectors but then I was only getting about 70% power going forward and 100% in going backwards and with the brake function it was a complete pain (because the brake was operating in the forward direction)

Well... I took my TX, RX and motor/diff assembly to my LHS (Hobby Habit in Adelaide) with the hope of buying an another ESC. They were unable to get ESC to work with my radio set. Apparently it needs a reversing switch but mine does not have one. No ESC for me I do have some good news however... I have stripped down my MSC's servo, cleaned and retuned the gears and it is working perfectly! Looks like I'll be running a complete vintage setup!

Err, yeah... Some. Why?

WillyChang, I really appreciate you taking the time to help me! Yeah, I bought the Venom ESC. I have tried the ESC in the steering channel but I get the same fault. Looks like I got a dodgy ESC... I just didn't want to get a replacement if my old radio gear is not comparable with a modern ESC.

WillyChang, Thank you for your reply. I have checked the throttle channel using the steering servo - the channel appears to be working fine (however the steering servo's neutral posittion is in a slightly different posission when plugged into the throttle channel). When the throttle servo is plugged into the steering channel, the throttle servo still does not work. I was wondering if my analog system may not be comparable with modern servos?

I should have added, I am planning to just run a Nimh battery and the original can motor (or maybe a Tamiya Torque Tuned or Stort Tuned motor?)

I am restoring an old Tamiya Fox with an original Dash controller/receiver (picture attached). If it matters, it appears to be a non-BEC unit and is set up with 4 AA batteries where the driver used to 'sit' (this was common where I raced). The Fox will be a copy of the one I had as a child and raced in various clubs in Adelaide (Australia) and will be a runner, not shelf queen. I have been out of the RC community for nearly 20 years. (man, a lot has changed!) The speed control servo is dead so, after reading many posts on TC,I thought I'd replace the MSC with a ESC (the MSC will be stored for safe keeping). I know nothing about ESC's but bought the ESC in the link below on advice of someone I met who races vintage RC here in Adelaide. I have swapped the ESC's red & black wires in the connector to suit the old Dash but the ESC still does not work. When the ESC is turned on the motor immediately runs and does not stop (controller in neutral possition). If I attempt the accelerate or reverse it stops completely and will not respond at all (until the battery is disconnected and then the motor immediately runs again). Is my controller compatible with ESC's? Is the ESC faulty or have I purchased the wrong one? Thank you http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251401966435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649