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About kaylon

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    Leamington Spa UK

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  1. I spray my stickers before I apply them to the body,even before I cut them out. I leave then for several hours after spraying 3 thin coats using a warm hair dryer between coats.. I've had decals done in this way on cars for over 4 years ... and they still look as fresh today as they did then... granted I don't drive in the wet if I can help it just in case
  2. I spray all my vinyl inkjet decals with halfords clear lacquer and so far they have been great. Cant testify about other decals.
  3. Most ABS will score and tear in the same was as plasticard and lexan. Carefully cut the areas you want removed (wheel arch) a few times with a modelling knife or scalpel, then at the start of the part you want to remove make a deeper cut, this will allow the section you want to pull off as you start pulling. I use pliers and grip the waste material and start to gently pull away from the cut. This will start to tear the plastic along your cut lines leaving a clean edge. You will need to give this a sand after as it will be quite sharp. This does take a little practise but the results are very clean. It's the cutting of the tear line that is vital to get right so just like spray painting make several soft cuts along the line and not just try for a single deep score.
  4. I use inkjet self adhesive vinyl it's about 200gsm and works on most normal inkjet printers, mine is actually quite old so a new printer would do better. The end result is already quite smudge proof unless you've used lots of black and it's splash proof. I then use Halfords clear gloss Lacquer spray and it seals it really really well and adds UV protection. Granted it would probably not stand up to driving under water or sitting on a windowsill for 5 years in direct sunlight but it's pretty good
  5. Decals added.. wanted to mimic the original but in my own colours and a slight re-design. Added a cute grasshopper cartoon I did I need to do a little tidy up but that's it till I fit electrics. K
  6. They are 1:18th buggy shocks from an excellent Ebay store I use all the time. They are HSP/Himoto shocks to fit WLtoy buggies but are perfect for the hopper 85mm rear, 65mm fronts
  7. Chassis was toast and have lots of other issues but a total spend of £35 excluding paint and I really love this classic. One of my first cars was a Hornet and this brings back so many memories. Going to fit some electrics and a 540 27 turn motor,it will be a blast to drive I hope. oh and custom decals will be added soon, will update this post once I have done them. K
  8. I'm all excited .. just gotta arrange transport now and all done. J
  9. You can find EMA cheaper in some local shops... There is a toy/model/puzzle shop in Leamington Spa that sells it for £2.75 Also if you are going to be using it a lot you NEED a dispenser, this is a one way pump valve that when you press on the top it allows some of the liquid up into the well. EMA evaporates very quickly so if you plan on a lot of modeling such as I do from time to time this wee pot is a MUST. Solvent Dispenser
  10. EMA Plastweld ... it's the best for ABS and most other plastics including plasticard, perspex etc ... top stuff ..
  11. I built a monster beetle.... one more of my childhood RC ticked off the wish list...
  12. I 'think' the CVD's are these... but I'm not 100% .. GPM CVD They do a set for the Wild Dagger too but I think they are too long... K
  13. Finished the shell for my Aqroshot DT-03T ... added my decals, might do one more, but I like how they are looking so far Will give it a spin around tomorrow if nice weather K
  14. I use these ones .. New GPM ones ... K
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